Project: R32 GTR Daily Driver with Guts! Mods?

[danstar]

Hey every1, I'm pretty new to this forum, but I've already read many post from the archives about the GTR. My previous cars have been an S13 Silvia Q's and a PRB Clubman that I built and race myself. Now I'm looking to go all out, I have fallen in love with the R32 GTR and know that I have to own one! Moving along...I'm going to import one at the start of next year. I'm looking for a stock GTR in excellent condition prolly around 92/92 model. I'll have about 30g to spend, looking at importing 1 for about 22g and spending 8g on mods. I don't want to have the fastest GTR out there, I mean a stock version would be good enough for me, I just want a few more mods to have fun with the car, experiment and get that little bit more power. I don't wanna put so much boost through the turbos and the engine that I need a rebuild!

So here's what I was thinking, as soon as I get the car:

STAGE 1

Replace:

Brake Pads

Clutch

Spark Plugs

Oil Pump & Filter

Fuel Pump & Filter $400

Air Filters $250

Exhaust $1200

STAGE 2

Buy:

Turbo Timer

Power FC $1200

HKS EVC boost controller $500

Intercooler

STAGE 3

Get car tuned on Dyno and consider more mods...

Complete all Visual Mods

STAGE 4

Possibly buy 2 new turbos if need be!

Possibly Suspension

How does this sound to all of you guys...I haven't owned a Turbo car before so I'm not exactly sure how to go about this, but I've got a fair idea. Give me any of your ideas if you think there's other things I should buy, or if you think I shouldn't bother with some of the mods I've listed. Remembering that this is a street legal car which will occasionally be used for drift and drag! Also can you reccommend me some brands for the mods I've listed if you have any good ideas?

Cheers Guys, I appreciate all your help,

Can't wait to get out there and on all the cruises with all of you!

Daniel.

[ecenshu]

Your plan sounds good to me, however you might wanna put an alarm in the stage 1 build!

Also note that Stock GTR induction(airbox) is pretty good unless you are looking at big numbers but from your build description, shouldn't be a problem.

[danstar]

Your plan sounds good to me, however you might wanna put an alarm in the stage 1 build!

Also note that Stock GTR induction(airbox) is pretty good unless you are looking at big numbers but from your build description, shouldn't be a problem.

Yes I agree with you completely about the alarm! You don't reckon these amounts of mod require a twin pod setup with heat sheild and cold air induction piping? Or should I just replace the filter element with a K&N filter and maybe mod the filter box by cutting a whole and channeling some air from the front bumper using some piping?

[ecenshu]

Modding the box is a cheap way of increasing airflow(or more accurately unrestricting the induction path). My opinion is that a CAI + shield + pods aren't worth the hassle unless you are producing a race car(drag or circuit) because you shouldn't notice a intake restriction unless you go above a certain power output (250rkw...correct me if I'm wrong ok guys!).

A street car or daily driver would be pretty quick at 250rkw...then just look at improving response instead of power. It's been mentioned elsewhere but I think it was in this order: lightest wheels, lightened flywheel, not too heavy clutch, CF propshaft(a bit overkill but would be noticable).

Also...I'm not a real techie and everything above is my OPINION (I'm just looking at doing something similar to you too!)

[tribex]

we have a 96 gtr vspec hittin 257 rwkw@1bar running exahaust dumppipes, microtech, big cooler, nice car.....

have been considering wether to bother with the whole pods and cold air box, seems to be a lot of disagreements about wether its worth it.....currently just using satndard box with hiflow filter......

[ecenshu]

I think you just proved my point though...Stock induction with just filter upgrade can get 257rkw

[Sydneykid]

Hi Danster, in my opinion turbo timers are a complete waste of time (and money). Just drive the car sensibly for the last 5 minutes after any hard run. Letting the car sit there idling for few minutes does absolutely nothing for everything else that got hot while you were thrashing. Just a huge waste of petrol, plus it gives a good place for the thieves to tap into the engine wiring.

I would definitely add brake rotors to your Stage 1 list, they are always stuffed. We use DBA, slotted only (never cross drilled). I always service the callipers as well, heavy fast cars (like GTR’s) are murder on their brakes. I haven't seen an R32 GTR come in with the standard exhaust, they always have aftermarket ones fitted now. So you may be able to cross this off your list as well. I'm with ecenshu, a pannel filter in the standard airbox is a good upgrade, we use Pipercross. I would go with the Power FC boost control kit to go with the PFC, then you can use the Commander to monitor and trim both.

Oil pump, why would you replace the standard oil pump? Ditto fuel pump? Ditto the standard intercooler, we use them up to 300 rwkw and there is nothing on your list that suggests more than that as your power target.

Why do people leave suspension to last? A 15 year old GTR is gunna most likely need some serious suspension work. I suggest you check out the threads in the Suspension section.

Hope that is of some help

[ecenshu]

About replacing the oil/fuel pumps. What are the signs that one is about to fail/have failed. How dangerous is it to the engine when it does happen. Reason I ask is it might be a good idea to replace them on a 15 year old car just for preventative maintainence.

[danstar]

Hi Danster, in my opinion turbo timers are a complete waste of time (and money).  Just drive the car sensibly for the last 5 minutes after any hard run.  Letting the car sit there idling for few minutes does absolutely nothing for everything else that got hot while you were thrashing.  Just a huge waste of petrol, plus it gives a good place for the thieves to tap into the engine wiring.

I would definitely add brake rotors to your Stage 1 list, they are always stuffed.  We use DBA, slotted only (never cross drilled).  I always service the callipers as well, heavy fast cars (like GTR’s) are murder on their brakes.  I haven't seen an R32 GTR come in with the standard exhaust, they always have aftermarket ones fitted now.  So you may be able to cross this off your list as well.  I'm with ecenshu, a pannel filter in the standard airbox is a good upgrade, we use Pipercross. I would go with the Power FC boost control kit to go with the PFC, then you can use the Commander to monitor and trim both.

Oil pump, why would you replace the standard oil pump?  Ditto fuel pump?  Ditto the standard intercooler, we use them up to 300 rwkw and there is nothing on your list that suggests more than that as your power target.

Why do people leave suspension to last?  A 15 year old GTR is gunna most likely need some serious suspension work.  I suggest you check out the threads in the Suspension section.

Hope that is of some help

Wow, thanx for that information man...Definately a different perspective on what I was thinking. I was actually considering getting new brake rotors, because I mean you've got to be able to stop if your going so friggin fast, so I'll look into it! Cheers.

P.S 30 Seconds to Mars rock

[Sydneykid]

Hi ecenshu, there may be some validity in replacing the fuel pump. But they are easy to test with fuel pressure gauge T'd into the fuel line at the fuel filter. Standard pressure is 38 psi above boost. A failing pump will show less, pretty simple really.

As for oil pump, I can tell you have never replaced one on an RB engine. They are mounted on the block around the crankshaft. The amount of stuff you have to remove (including the sump) makes this a very expensive and time consuming task. In fact pulling the engine out completely is probably quicker. Testing is basically the same as above, plumb oil pressure gauge into the block at the oil filter and read off the pressure, cold at idle should be >30 psi and hot at rpm should be >45 psi. Again it's simple stuff.

By all means check things, but simply replacing them is not necessary.

[ecenshu]

Thanks SydneyKid, as always...a wealth of information!

Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread but heres MY revised list of "R32 GTR Daily driver with Guts!"

STAGE 1 (Maintainence)

Replace:

Brake Pads

Spark Plugs

Oil Filter

Fuel Filter

Upgraded Panel Air Filters $250

Check:

Fuel pump

Oil pump

STAGE 2(Handling)

Brake rotors (Calipers?)

Revalve/recon suspension or buy new coilovers(Depends if u got aftermarket or not)

Adjustable Sway bars

Hicas Lock kit?

Adjustable control arms

Pineaples?

Clutch(Twin plate ok for street?)

STAGE 3(Tuning)

Buy:

Power FC $1200

HKS EVC boost controller $500

Get car tuned on Dyno and consider more mods...

STAGE 4(Power)

Possibly buy 2 new turbos if need be!

Visual upgrades along the way for me...

Aftermarket Grille

Clear front indicators

Boot lid lip

Visual upgrades are personal preference so feel free to object danstar!

[rev210]

My 2c now that I actually own a GTR as of today (YAY!) is the Boost controller is not needed till you up the boost on a set of aftermarket turbo's. The factory ones go alright at 12psi which they will hold just fine with the restrictor pulled out. No point in killing the factory turb's unless you have some new ones sitting there to go in.

Lightweight flywheel is worth a serious look when the clutch is on it's way out too. I may even brave replacement of mine even thought the clutch is ok just because it adds so much extra performance. I think the greddy pulley kit is also worth a look too.

[gtrken]

You won't be able to import a 92 model next year unless someone is going to do the RAWS compliance on them.

Atm , all that is avaliable is 15 year old 89's and not till their build month ie. built 7/89 , allowed in 7/2004.

Cheers

ken

[justinfox]

Sometimes you just have to try something out yourself rather than taking advice from these forums.

I got a custom pod/cold air intake put into my last car (An Alfa 147) and the car no longer hesitated off the lights and it made an amazing sound at higher revs.

I have heaps of GT-R magazines and all of them feature, from front to back cover, GT-R's with pod filters. All these guys can't be wrong. They just can't be. So, what did I do today? I installed an APEXI induction kit to my R32 GT-R and all I have to say is WOW!!!

The sound is amazing. You can hear a loud sucking noise and you can also hear the stock BOVS too. Car is definitely pulling harder/faster. So, sure, the stock box is fine. Stock wheels and suspension are probably "fine" too right? But many run out to modify these as there are "better" aftermarket parts.

PS: re- suspension. I always do this first and just installed a complete Whiteline WORKS package. All the swaybars etc etc and I did this because of people on here telling me it's a great kit. I have to say that the car is no longer streetable. It's such a hard ride I bounce off everything and I cscrape the shit out of the rfont bar all the time now on crappy joins between roads. Damn it's a hard ride, there goes all comfort whatsoever.

[GTR032]

Hey guys good thread here,

Here is a list of parts I had to replace after I bought my very stockish 94 model GTR..

- 3 Heater/water hoses at rear of engine

- Clutch slave cyclinder

- Suspension (replaced with TEIN TYPE FLEX COILOVERS)

- Front rotors (replaced with DBA 4000series slotted)

- Front castor rod bushes

- Front pipes, cat and cat back exhaust system

- All front CV joint rubbers

All these were done because of standard parts had failed or not up to the task anymore.

Just an idea of possible parts that need replacing/servicing.

MODS

- HKS Exhaust system

- Apexi Pod filter kit

- HKS SSQ Blow off valves

- Coil overs

- 18" WORK rims

Plus some adjustable cam gears and a Power FC yet to be fitted.

Without a doubt the best modification/part replacement I've done is the suspension! Such an amazing handling transformation - recommended for sure!!

Sorry this probably doesn't help much..

Jono

[gtrken]

Hey guys good thread here,

Here is a list of parts I had to replace after I bought my very stockish 94 model GTR..

- 3 Heater/water hoses at rear of engine

- Clutch slave cyclinder

- Suspension (replaced with TEIN TYPE FLEX COILOVERS)

- Front rotors (replaced with DBA 4000series slotted)

- Front castor rod bushes

- Front pipes, cat and cat back exhaust system

- All front CV joint rubbers

All these were done because of standard parts had failed or not up to the task anymore.

Just an idea of possible parts that need replacing/servicing.

MODS

- HKS Exhaust system

- Apexi Pod filter kit

- HKS SSQ Blow off valves

- Coil overs

- 18" WORK rims

Plus some adjustable cam gears and a Power FC yet to be fitted.

Without a doubt the best modification/part replacement I've done is the suspension! Such an amazing handling transformation - recommended for sure!!

Sorry this probably doesn't help much..

Jono

Usually find that ( caster bushes and CV boots ) with GTR's that have done 70-100K.

Have you checked your front top arm bushes cos if what you have described are gone, can bet the bushes are flogged or have been replaced?

Most common reason for the front end wanders/strange clunk from the front.

Cheers

Ken

[meshmesh]

I have heaps of GT-R magazines and all of them feature, from front to back cover, GT-R's with pod filters. All these guys can't be wrong. They just can't be. So, what did I do today? I installed an APEXI induction kit to my R32 GT-R and all I have to say is WOW!!!

The sound is amazing. You can hear a loud sucking noise and you can also hear the stock BOVS too. Car is definitely pulling harder/faster. So, sure, the stock box is fine.

Hi justinfox,

The Mines GTR uses stock airbox, and funnily enough the Mines dump pipe isn't a split dump. I've got HKS Pods on my R33, and yes they sound loud, yes you can hear the blow off valves, but when it's hot you can really feel the loss of power. I just about to install my next stage of upgrades inc- GT2530's, SARD 700cc, Nismo FP (I can hear SK already - why pay 20% more for 15% less)..simple straight fit & the Mines car seems to be doing OK with 600+hp. I'm also going back the original airbox unit & snorkel with a KN filter, to see how it goes. I'll also be sticking with the stock dumps & IC.. however I am sourcing a Trust IC at the moment thanks to SK's formula, wisdom, advice that he bestowed upon mwa

[Mandingo]

read HPI GTR special no2, 12's for 2 grand.

[ecenshu]

read HPI GTR special no2, 12's for 2 grand.

I don't intend to be a drag car only, the article is a good read and provides some good tips however, I want a whole streetable package, not just power.

[lwells]

*snip*

I'm with meshmesh -- if the Mines Response R34 runs an airbox, there has to be something to it. Are you comparing the pods to the standard airbox filter? A fairer comparison would be to a high-flow aftermarket filter...

LW.