Jump to content
SAU Community

[Vic] 1992 Ford Laser

boxerr
 Share

Recommended Posts

boxerr Apprentice

boxerr

Posted
Posted (edited)

Car Model: Ford Laser

Year: 1992

Colour: Red

Transmission: Manual

Kilometres (Current): 204 361

Location: Northern Suburbs (Coburg).

Description:

This 1992 Ford Laser is an excellent example of what a well looked after Laser should look like. Both the interior and exterior of the car are in immaculate condition. The interior is clean with no tears and the exterior has no dints or any faded paint. The engine still runs very well for the cars age. It was serviced a few months ago and will be again soon (if buyer decides to purchase car along with rwc). The car runs very smoothly overall and the clutch and gearbox still feel like new. This Laser also has power steering and for the time i've owned it, it has had amazing fuel economy.

Included also are all original purchase documents, service history and the original owners manuel which have never left the car since it left the factory.

Since leaving the factory this car has been very well maintained and the only thing added to the car is an alarm. This is a very reliable and cheap to run car which is ideal for a first car or daily. Often commented on its cleanliness, this is guaranteed to be one of the cleanest lasers of its type you will ever find!

The car still has rego which will last until August, 2011.

Price:

The price with a RWC (and Rego) is $2450 (Or Nearest Offer).

Or without RWC (But still with Rego) is $2200 (Or Nearest Offer) (The car doesn't require much as it easily passed a RWC test and Vic roads check just a few months ago).

Contact:

Number: 0432593889 (preferably texts. If you do call, and call is unanswered, please leave a txt message with question(s) and i will get back to you ASAP).

Can also email me here (using the form on the right). Will reply to any questions as fast as possible.

Pictures:

87536020.jpg

55101892.jpg

98016701.jpg

74906771.jpg

45668887.jpg

24040094.jpg

10807976.jpg

19989178.jpg

92723629.jpg

p2801111835.jpg

If you would like anymore pictures, please PM me and i will send them to you.

Thanks for viewing! :)

Edited by boxerr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365836-vic-1992-ford-laser/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Hi all. I am aware there is lots of discussions about jacking points, where to lift the car and what not. But as usual just a lot of "in my opinion" and nothing definitive, and everyone does it in a different way. I want to hear from some experienced people on which points on the car it's okay/safe/recommended to lift the car using a four point hoist/lift. I will attach some images of my underbody. Sills are largely okayish, the driver side jacking point is pretty mangled though and it looks like the underfloor is slightly pushed in too, but I might be wrong. In the German Skyline forum, the consensus is to use the sidemember chassis rails in the front and the rear subframe? bushing in the rear. I know the manual says to never use the sidemember for loading but lots of folk do it and it was definitely done on my car too as they are slightly bent too. Based on the images, what points do I use to not make the already present damage worse? I'd use wood or rubber blocks to spread the load across a bigger area of course. Driver side sidemember and jacking point mangled one) https://imgur.com/a/eKjzrJX Driver side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/W3DWF1P Passenger side sidemember and jacking point https://imgur.com/a/65UvIJe Passenger side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/h3k7j53 We can also see some underbody rust but so far it all looks somewhat treatable and nothing that requires a Yoshida style restoration.
    • MBS206
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • WARLORD
      injectors top feed for sale

      By WARLORD · Posted

      Deatschwerks 1800cc sold
    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
×
×
  • Create New...