Jump to content
SAU Community

  

31 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 308
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

LOL, well I'm off uni now till exams, I could come along hahah (not that I'd be much use.. lol)

I think the base one was a 1.6?? Maybe had engine replacement?? @290 I wouldn't be surprised?

How can you be so excited over a $800 car vs say a 15k R34 GT lol.

Perhaps he doesnt realise what a nice car he has ...

James it looks virtually identical to yours in almost every aspect ... wheels and everything hahah Maybe it IS your car :O?

Thats a good point.. I was just wondering why I was so enthusiastic over a 100hp car

Well im buying this one fully with my own money made from work, the R34 was paid for by parents ... I never like people paying for my stuff though, which is part of the reason of why I want a lil bunkie for my own

Ahh you're lucky, I still havent even had my exams yet .. finish on the 18th :(

Hopefully its a 1.8 and he just screwed something up ... regardless its still a nice looking car with a sweet interior rolleyes.gif

Yeah it'd be cool if you came along :)

PM us your number and I'll send you a text or call If I manage to get time to see the car

This ones on murray street .. not too far from subi!

Ah okay well then doubt its the same one down.gif

Ahh I see, I don't even know when my exams start .. just realised theyll be starting soon, had a minor panic attack

Edited by Jonno34

Mine was a 1.8. Fairly sure the SSS N13 Vector was a damn rare car, especially in white. http://forum.pulsar....ormation-thread 27 only apparently?

the SVD is diffrent to the normal SSS. the SVD's are the more rarer cars ( ~200 made 27 white ones made for the F1).

for future refrence

models:

GL = base model, 1.6L singe point injection. drum brakes at the rear

GX = 1.6L standard, 1.8L EFI optional ( i believe). 4 wheel disc brakes

GXE = 1.8L EFI standard, chrome pieces. otherwise identical to GX

SSS = 1.8L EFI standard, 4 wheel disc brakes, diffrent extractors from factory, LSD

Ti= sedan only, basically the same as GXE but in sedan form

SVD = ( look at the link in the quoted post

Edited by liger

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...