Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guy's,

Up for sale in my Black AR-X.

Mod's

Motor

Nismo ECU Piggybacked with an E-manage Ultimate - Tuned to run BP98 - Currently safe tuned to 15-16 PSI at 268AWKW's - Capable of more this is a very safe tune!

HDI EBC

HDI FMIC

Rebuild and high flowed turbo with a Garret BB set and GT30/71 core

Dump with a 3" custom exhaust

Suction Pipe

Custom intake

New motor with 55K on it. - Runs Neo 30w/5 racing oil

Custom Alloy radiator

Catch can

Nismo low temp thermostat.

Phenolic Runner spacer

600cc injectors

Walbro Fuel pump running 14v

Drivetrain

Nismo Springs

Bilstein Shock's

Whiteline front Sway bar

R33 GTR Callipers with DBA slotted rotors

19"x8.5 +36 Lenso Wheels

Currently running the standard 3.1 LSD gears (but I have 3.538 front and rear LSD diff on the way....these do not come with the car but will sell and install if wanted at what I paid for them)

A new exchange gearbox can will be sorted with a Stage 2 shift kit....to be installed.

PWR Large Trans cooler

Interior/Exterior

Standard AR-X Interior with twin sunroofs and Centre control panel

English translation is done

Digital TV is done

Autometer boost gauge

R33 GTR N1 duct's

Aftermarket Grill

Blacked out headlights

Eyelids

More about it

This car's driveline one the new Gears and Gearbox goes in will be under 60K....I can prove this!!! It is a well sorted car. The body needs a buff and there are 2 small fixable dents on the drivers side. The interior needs a new set of floor matt's and a detailer to go over the leather. Other than that the car is pretty good and for those that want a performance wagon but lack the funds to get it there it's a pretty good buy.

I am available to take you for a drive or show the car at anytime.

Asking 18,500 firm!

You can contact me on 0406 754 304.

cheers

Craig

Edited by Jetwreck
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365885-nm35-stagea-ar-x/
Share on other sites

Any interior shots? What suburb are you in?

I'm in Thornleigh.......My wife is up the coast in my car today rant.gif so I cannot do the shot's I wanted of the interior for you today........I can tell you that it's a standard AR-X interior with not rip's, burns crack or permanent stains....I had a quote to clean it up...was about $300 for the full leather detail and treatment.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
    • Don't do what I did, use a 300000km old housing with billet gears. The old pump probably was clearanced with saw dust, Edward Lee's special engine treatment sauce and a good odo wind back. I had oil pressure issues, then replaces pump with new housing, new billet gears and 2x track day later binned a motor due to other oil related issues due to a previous engine builder. Long story short, buy a M2 or 3 or 4 N55/S55/S58 and enjoy life.
    • Yeah. "New pump" does not have to mean "massive pump".
    • Well, can you still get an OEM pump, and by the time you're buying a Nismo/N1 etc, just buy another aftermarket pump. It's better to have the pump able to flow more if its needed, than for your pressure to drop off. At any point in time, you're replacing the oil pump in a rebuild. Aftermarket pumps are likely going to be a better economical choice, and they don't have any negatives, even if they can flow more.   Also, when you're saying "replace the pump gears" are you meaning leave a 25+ year old housing in the engine with unknown wear, and just put new gears in? As that sounds silly to me, especially if you do have that minute amount of wear, that means your new pump gears now have a little bit more clearance beside them, which means, whelp, you may not get to build a lot of oil pressure or make a lot of flow.
    • Right, but if you replace the pump gears + put a spline or sine drive gear on the crank on a Nismo/OEM/N1/etc pump at that point do you really still want more flow/oil pressure? Let's say this is a the aforementioned "keep it simple" build, no more than ~400 kW at the crank.
×
×
  • Create New...