Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So what forum was that all posted on?

I've never seen such threads here stating such things.

Everyone knows 10-12psi MAX for long turbo life. Run more boost, expect it to die due to the ceramic rear wheel.

Compressor wheel makes no difference, simple as that really. Would have just been cheaper to produce. Wasn't a performance decision.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365907-r33-gtst-turbos/#findComment-5838617
Share on other sites

+1 ^

I ran 14psi on my stock turbo, but that's because I didn't intend on owning it for long. Upgraded the turbo after about 3 months. Never had an issue, but I wouldn't run that much boost and expect it to last for ever.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365907-r33-gtst-turbos/#findComment-5838627
Share on other sites

Ive seen it on a few threads from overseas. But apparently not true. So just out of curiosity why would u swap a 33 turbo onto a 20 when factory wastegate is set at 10 and they happily run at 11-12 ? Not having a dig just asking.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365907-r33-gtst-turbos/#findComment-5838629
Share on other sites

Paul is right, i own a S1 33 and its alloy, Also i agree with the above comment about it being cost effecient to make the S2 nylon. Also i agree with Hanaldo, 10psi through two different turbos is not the same, one will flow better then the other to some extent, more psi does not mean more power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365907-r33-gtst-turbos/#findComment-5843792
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...