Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys rebuilding my bottem end after oil pump failure i already have a custom oil drain from back of head back down to sump

my question is do i really need higher volume sump if im making about 500 bhp i currently have stock sump .... and also should i change harmonic balencer and put after market one if so

what brand /model no. ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365969-gtr-89-32-build/
Share on other sites

If going with a higher flowing pump then yes you need a bigger capacity sump, head restrictors etc (replacing with a R33 crank for the long oil drive would be recommended). read the oil control thread in it's entirety.. as for head oil drains, as far as their function.. the general consensus is they don't really work.

I wouldn't risk using that balancer again if there were a oil pump failure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365969-gtr-89-32-build/#findComment-5839361
Share on other sites

If going with a higher flowing pump then yes you need a bigger capacity sump, head restrictors etc (replacing with a R33 crank for the long oil drive would be recommended). read the oil control thread in it's entirety.. as for head oil drains, as far as their function.. the general consensus is they don't really work.

I wouldn't risk using that balancer again if there were a oil pump failure.

Ok I already have restrictor s etc but not the sump do u recommend me changing sump ? Where is good place to get on if so

What is a good brand/model of harmonic balencer ? To replace standard one with ? And where could I source a 33 crank from ? Would itbe cheaper to go collar and change harmonic bal ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365969-gtr-89-32-build/#findComment-5839438
Share on other sites

Try Justjap for the R33 crank, from memory they arent that expensive.

As for the sump, from my reading I would retain the factory item. There doesnt seem to be much move towards aftermarket sumps in a basic sort of setup.

GL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365969-gtr-89-32-build/#findComment-5839635
Share on other sites

it's as simple as this really. factory pump factory sump. aftermarket pump? aftermarket sump. a high flowing pump will empty your stock sump in a matter of seconds. literally. and with much less oil flowing back down it doesn't take long for the sump to run dry.

so if you want to run a jun pump, you need to get an enlarged and baffled sump. I've had no problems with trust sumps on 2 of my GTRs and the hi-octane sumps seem to work very well too. I'd buy one of those.

as far as balancer goes I'd either spend a little and buy an N1 balancer, or go for top of the line which is ATI.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365969-gtr-89-32-build/#findComment-5840477
Share on other sites

it's as simple as this really. factory pump factory sump. aftermarket pump? aftermarket sump. a high flowing pump will empty your stock sump in a matter of seconds. literally. and with much less oil flowing back down it doesn't take long for the sump to run dry.

so if you want to run a jun pump, you need to get an enlarged and baffled sump. I've had no problems with trust sumps on 2 of my GTRs and the hi-octane sumps seem to work very well too. I'd buy one of those.

as far as balancer goes I'd either spend a little and buy an N1 balancer, or go for top of the line which is ATI.

I think he's right!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/365969-gtr-89-32-build/#findComment-5840704
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...