Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

i bought a R34 skyline just before christmas last year and have notice since it has been raining that the alarm is shorting or faulting somewhere!! does anyone know how hard and how much it might cost me to get the fault sorted??i was told finding faults in a car alarm is a flamin mongrel and to just get a new alarm system!! if thats the better option can anyone give me some feedback on good places around perth WA to get it installed and wot brand/model i should go for??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366069-new-alarm-or-find-fault/
Share on other sites

hey mate, im 3rd year auto elec, in my experience alarms are a bastard, not to fault find, but they are just not that reliable and most of them are installed horribly! There is not much to a basic alarm system, should just have a 12v supply, earth, door lock signals and your start supply to starter motor, fuel pump or coils or all three! As long as you have these into the unit, than your alarm module is no good, and this is most likely! it will probably be cheaper and easier to just get a new alarm installed!

depends on the brand and what faults, ? ADR approved ?

dont replace it with rubbish or remove it without replacing it

alarms are easy to install if you know what your doing, but can get extremely complex to hide, intergrate into new cars. etc. not for the home mech DIY .!!!! some take a hour or 2 , some take days to install .

most faults are

eviromental, loud cars, trucks, shaking the car. over sensitive alarm

bad door pins, bonnet pins

bad battery on remote, backup battery dead

loose wires. from bad installs.

or crims setting it off so you shut off the alarm cause its driving you nuts, then good bye car !!!

or rarely bad brains on the module. most of the time its the install failure itself

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope. The seal is in the drive. A new cable would just fill up and continue to convey oil to the speedo head. To check if this is what is happening, take the cluster out, dismantle the speedo and have a look. You probably don't even have to dismantle it. If there is oil coming up the cable, the drive into the speedo will be grossly greasy. I had to manually (and delicately) clean the gunk out of my speedo.
    • Thanks for the quick response mate, and I agree Nismo 555s, Z32 and high flow 2871 in OP6 housing (run by PowerFC) would all be "period correct" and should be a simple, reliable and reasonably quick track car.
    • It is normal for a speedo to read 0-10% high (unfortunately), intended by manufacturers and ADRs (although not in this case) to ensure your speedo does not read low if your tyres are worn. Speaking of which, what size tyres do you have on the rear, and what does they tyre placard say you should have? you can use this https://tiresize.com/calculator/ to determine what % difference that is causing Personally, when I buy tyres for a car I buy a size that will bring the speedo back to being more accurate; it if it reads 5% high I buy tyres that are 5% larger diameter. If you had an electronic speed sender like R33 onwards, the other option is to add a speedo adjuster but that won't work in R32. Finally, you  might be able to find a different sized gear for the speedo sender but that will be limited to what already exists (and I don't know what sizes do)
    • OK...so dumb question to check....do the hi beams actually come on when the push the stalk to engage them (keeping in mind your headlight switch must be at ON as well)
    • Nah it factory manual not sure about ratio but it looks like there’s been some work at the rear 
×
×
  • Create New...