Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Im new, only type of import ive had was a RX7 series 2 with a 13b turbo many years ago. Up until now i've only had falcons. (currently have a 400rwhp BA XR8).

My girlfriend used to have an R33 Gtst which has been sold a couple of years ago.

Now we are buying a Tommy Kaira R33 m25 Gtst.

As for modifications, it has a

HKS cat-back

HKS pod.

oil filter relocation kit and oil cooler.

HKS coil overs

HKS SSQ bov

and running 15-16psi

turbo timer and boost controller.

plus all the tommy kaira add-ons. bodykit. strut brace. gauges. 300kph dash. body tag. skickers etc etc.

Things I want to do. (this is the part i need advice on). I have searched on here for a couple of hrs and not really getting what I need.

high mount turbo manifold?

bigger turbo (thinking T04z)?

dump pipe? definately want a screamer.

what exhaust?

fuel system?

computer and tune?

Cams and cam gears?

front mount and pipe work.

Anyone in Sydney I can get these parts from, i'll do most of the work myself. Not lookin to spend millions doing it either. hello ebay? lol.

Sorry for all the questions this is uncharted terriorty for me. I'd like to see over 400rwhp from it

Any links and shops I can speak to would be hugely appreciated it.

Thanks

Mat

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366093-newbie-asking-for-advice/
Share on other sites

do you really really want the tommy kaira version?

is it a MUST have?

you might be paying more for essentially a basic GTST

just check the pricing and dont get ripped for "basic" mods

if you havent brought it yet consider BCNR33 (33 GTR) instead?

they are fairly cheap and may save $$ later chasing power with more mods etc

something to consider

For your power goals you wont need a new manifold unless you will be doing it just for the sack of a screamer which you could still modify the stock manifold for.

The hks cat back should be fine that comes with it.

Fuel system you will get away with a nismo or bosch 044 intank or you can put a surge tank setup if your going to be tracking it abit.

Ecu well depends on what tuner you want to use and what there confortable with.

Cams and camgears not really a must only if you want to spend some more money to get abit more out of the midrange.

A basic return flow cooler either JJR if you want to be on a budget or a jap brand like the blitz will do for a few hundred more.

In regards to turbo as said above something like a 3076 sounds about right for your power goals.

Once you've done all that considering that you have a decent clutch in there and everything else you should see the power your after.

thanks for the quick replies guys.

Main reason I want high mount manifold and big turbo apart from making good power was the wow factor.. you know open the bonnet and wow nice big turbo and shiney manifold.

Also want to add a polished inlet plenum. apart from power its a wow factor thing to.

The car doesnt have to be overly street friendly, as its a weekend/fun/thrash car.. Am keeping the XR8 as a daily.

Im choosing the tommy kaira because it looks fantastic and its at a really really good price. and already having a few nice modifications i find it a good basis to start with.

Thanks for the link JKR will have a look see and go from there. Will do a little more research.

Any links to websites that sell aftermarket parts?

thanks again

A T04Z is a 600rwhp turbo, bad choice for 400rwhp.

I suggest you really do some more reading.

Go through the RB25 dyno results thread. You'll see that it's a fine line between power and reliability.

Most people over 280rwkw have built motors, or are on E85 (upto around 320rwkw).

300rwkw is a realistic limit for a stock RB25, should last many years. A GT3071 or GT3076 would be your best bet - Use the search are there are many 5-10 pages threads on that specific turbo selection with more info than you'll ever need.

I'm a function over "wow". No point having the "wow" and only 400rwhp car with handling like a boat.

Better off saving your money on costly "wow" setups that offer nothing, and making worthwhile modifications and have a 400rwhp car that will drive like it's on rails as handling/suspension/brakes will cost the same, if not more, than the power modifications.

  • Like 1

^^^+1

Wow only happens once or twice a year, you can use power every day = spend $$$ on power and leave wow to wankers.

And I'd be careful of ebay specials, unless you know what your buying you'll throw a lot of good $$$ away learning.

Not sure of your location otherwise everyone would be giving you shop names to go to.

How much are you paying for the TK Gtst out of interest???

Taking the car for a test drive this weekend. If all goes well I will grab it. 13k with 70k on the clock, with compliance, new timing belt and rego. I think thats a pretty good deal from what I have been seeing.

Already having hks coil overs and tk strut braces, circuit tyres 255wide. I think it will grip and handle pretty well. Like i said its a fun car. it will see the track, drag, drift, circuit.. but only for fun, nothing serious.

All the things I want to do, will happen not too long after picking up the car. sort of a round 1 stage of mods.. then will look into forged internals if needed.

Was up all night searching the net looking up inlet plenums, exhaust manifolds, exhaust systems, intercooler kits, fuel set ups.. etc etc. bolt on bits. So will see how I go I guess..

Oh and im from sydney.

i run gready to4 high rise manifold 54mm external waste gate tommie cams haltec e11v2 management system valves& springs forged pistons and rods and some pretty major fuel system components i tune my self now after dealing with to many tools that have no idea and run 450rwhp street 827rwhp strip with 200 shot nos wet strip just to bring on the boost a bit quicker

i run gready to4 high rise manifold 54mm external waste gate tommie cams haltec e11v2 management system valves& springs forged pistons and rods and some pretty major fuel system components i tune my self now after dealing with to many tools that have no idea and run 450rwhp street 827rwhp strip with 200 shot nos wet strip just to bring on the boost a bit quicker

Finally, getting the info I want to hear!

Thanks Scoot.

What i've decided on at the moment.

Snort Performance high mount SS manifold. GT35/40 turbo. Sceamer. 46mm wastegate(hks or turbosmart). 4in intake pipe and pod. 3inch dump, Apexi N1 pro or Kakimoto exhaust with NO cat... Trust intercooler, custom pipe work.

Surge tank and bosch 044 fuel pump, sard injectors, sard fuel pressure reg, aftermarket fuel rail. Aftermarket inlet plenum, 90mm throttle body. Tommei cams and cam gears. with recommended valve springs.

I havent decided on what engine management to run yet, depends on tuner I go with. More than likely J.E.M. or possibly you??

Figure i'll run 18-20psi until the engine goes and go from there..

Getting more and more excited about cracking gate and turning tyres to smoke while having my body pinned!

<--- something like that would be a nice start!! love it!

Why is it what you wanted to hear?

You are talking about Apples and Watermellons. A full built motor compared to your stock one. NOT same by any means of the word, and a rather pointless post that adds nothing to the thread at all.

Oh, and that youtube link is not what you want. Nothing happens before 5000-5500rpm.

But thats what you get for using a truck turbo - a 2500-3000rpm power band with no power. You could get a GT3076 that will come on 1000rpm sooner and make more power than HX40 will. That is what a fast street car is all about.

Turbo choice is the most important part of any setup IMO. A poor turbo choice will make or break a setup.

You have a nice expensive part list, however you could build a faster setup for much less if you wanted to :thumbsup:

Why is it what you wanted to hear?

You are talking about Apples and Watermellons. A full built motor compared to your stock one. NOT same by any means of the word, and a rather pointless post that adds nothing to the thread at all.

Oh, and that youtube link is not what you want. Nothing happens before 5000-5500rpm.

But thats what you get for using a truck turbo - a 2500-3000rpm power band with no power. You could get a GT3076 that will come on 1000rpm sooner and make more power than HX40 will. That is what a fast street car is all about.

Turbo choice is the most important part of any setup IMO. A poor turbo choice will make or break a setup.

You have a nice expensive part list, however you could build a faster setup for much less if you wanted to :thumbsup:

Hes telling me what I want to hear because hes actually saying 450hp can be done and telling me parts to do it with.

I've looked at most of that RB25 build thread and its given me alot of options which is where I took most of my ideal parts from.

Not really fussed on the overall price, parts are cheap! I really cant get over how cheap aftermarket parts are for these things.

The 3076 just seems a little small to me. which is why im opting for the 3582 or 3540.

sriver killer, dont be so bloody stupid.

Im a revhead, obviously, all i want is a high mount turbo, screamer, big top end rush, big frount mount and over 400rwhp. (AS A STARTING POINT) The cars can be had for cheap and modified for cheap.

Thats why im here. I dont care if its got lag til 4000rpm. I dont care if its obnoxiously loud. I know what I want, im asking for advice to get what I want, it may not be the ideal setup or as fast as some other set upts or as cheap, but its what I want!! not be told its going to be shit, laggy, etc etc.

And having worked on a mates VL turbo with a stock internal RB25 in it, chinese manifold, monsta brand super T70, chinese inlet manifold, hybrid cooler, 300 dollar home made exhaust, cheap ebay fuel system. it made 300rwkw and ran 12.8@116mph with a gay launch. 2.3 60ft. the only decent thing in that car was the tune by incar at wetherilpark.

Thats what makes me want the stuff I want!!

And having worked on a mates VL turbo with a stock internal RB25 in it, chinese manifold, monsta brand super T70, chinese inlet manifold, hybrid cooler, 300 dollar home made exhaust, cheap ebay fuel system. it made 300rwkw and ran 12.8@116mph with a gay launch. 2.3 60ft. the only decent thing in that car was the tune by incar at wetherilpark.

Thats what makes me want the stuff I want!!

400rwhp is almost the same as 300rwkW. Just do to the R33 what you did with the VL and you will be set. I mean, same engine means same results amirite?

400rwhp is almost the same as 300rwkW. Just do to the R33 what you did with the VL and you will be set. I mean, same engine means same results amirite?

Thats the idea, but I want decent parts not chinese crap. Which is why I was asking whats the better manifold, the better intercooler etc etc..

like theres 1000 different decent brand name manifolds. Which one to go for? 6boost, snort, xforce, hks, etc..

exhausts hks, apexi, kakimoto and stuff.. cooler - greddy, arc, coolpro etc etc.. thats the info im looking for. thats what im trying to get at.

I just want to know what parts will be best suited to what I want. I have an idea of what I want. But there may be something better for similiar money?

Sure I can do what we did to the VL, but it will eventually lunch the cheap chinese turbo, burn a hole in the manifold and hybrid is just crap. So do that same build but with decent parts yes?

The only thing I wont do on this car is the tune. the rest I will just be buying and doing in the garage.

My XR8 has 400rwhp 660nm but weighs 1800+kg and it gets up and goes its great fun. Has run into the 12s on street tyres at 108mph. So I figure, skyline, few hundred kgs lighter, same power will be even more fun for cheap and has alot of potential. My only option now with the xr8 is forced induction. 10-15k depending on route i go. 10-15k spent on a R33 skyline will be an absolute animal and stupid amounts of fun.

400rwhp is almost the same as 300rwkW. Just do to the R33 what you did with the VL and you will be set. I mean, same engine means same results amirite?

Except the fact that 300rwkw and 116mph in a VL don't add up...

:glare:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...