Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I should read the thread before commenting haha.

still.... thats a lot of work to get to 450rwkw. This means the following equation to me.

work=money=power

power>money>work

If so facto, youre going to be spending a lot of money. Can a standard capacity rb25 do that? I dont think so (disclaimer, I dont know haha)

Edited by eat_me

Not true, there are power to weight ratios that are required to be met.

For example you can no longer engineer an rx3 with a 13b turbo rotary, they flat out deny the request to modify vehicle.

There are also limits on engine size. For example in a R32 a turbo charged 4.4L v8 is the largest engine you can get engineered in it, Or a 7.3L NA engine was what I worked out when I was looking at it.

i understand what your saying but he still has a rb25, so it rules out what you said.

sure with the size of that turbo it is a no brainer it s not going to pass epa.. you will need alot of money spent on the head alone to get the most out of the turbo

so good luck getting it passed..

But for example, if he was stupit enough to put a 3inch dump with 2 catalytic converters on his setup and de tune it he still may pass on E85.. just saying :cheers:

Yeah, see the thing im facing is its a genuine tommy.. numbers matching block and body and blah. I know alot of you wont think much about it BUT I want to keep it numbers matching.

That rules out a 30 bottom end, plus im dont think much of a 30 bottom end anyway, which leaves me with strokers. Yes the idea is nice, but i'd rather carry more rev's on board and ring the 25's neck. If for argument sake the turbo isnt on full boost til 4000-5000rpm, it wont phase me because im spinning to 9000rpm+ so I have 4000-5000rpm of boost. Most people spin to what 7500-8000rpm?

Smaller turbo comes on 3000-4000.. holds til 8000.. or whatever, hopefully you see my point.

It all adds up in my head. Plus spending 5-8k on a decent stroker doesnt warrant enough of a gain or bragging rights to justify the dollars spent in my opinion anyway.

Then theres the problem of possibly falling off boost between gear changes, particularily with 2nd to 3rd change. ..

I know its not a skyline, but a friend had a similar problem with a 430rwkw supra. soon as he went to E85 and got re-tune, no more problems and boosting alot earlier to the point of getting rid of the T51R and going to a 76mm turbo. But he's also building a car that takes 4kms to come on boost and paint lines at Mach 1. Just because he can.

My point is, good tune, E85, built motor, lots of revs will not be slow and laggy like people may think. Will see once its up and running. If its no good, change it. Simple.

Yeah, see the thing im facing is its a genuine tommy.. numbers matching block and body and blah. I know alot of you wont think much about it BUT I want to keep it numbers matching.

That rules out a 30 bottom end, plus im dont think much of a 30 bottom end anyway, which leaves me with strokers.

You seem to think that a 'genuine tommy' is something special, get over it, its a body and nothing more...imo not a very nice body kit either.

30 bottom ends are the choice for drag racers and circuit racers and you say I want to make power but I dont like a 30 bottom end, why?

cheaper, easier to get parts, well proven, more down low grunt, will feed bigger turbo...

the title to this thread is right, Newbie?

Are you asking for advice or just telling people what your doing? whether your right or wrong seems irrelevant to you?

Im still keen to see what you do, and yep I'll applaud any effort put into building a decent functional car I just dont understand your comments sometimes and dont understand what this thread is actually about?

if you want to just boast, do a build thread, if want advice ask and accept answers

+1 ^

We're only giving advice to help your car drive better, feel better, and function better. If you dont want a 30, look into a spool 2.8 stroker kit. 5K and you get everything, fully balanced and made straight from billet cores. Plus rated to 1500hp.

More reliable than putting on 10 condoms at once.

If you're spending 2K - 4K on forged stuff, why not go that bit extra? Seems like a sound investment. Sure, you wont make an extra 100rwkw, but when you have a dyno graph that looks like a V8, you'll know you have an *overall* better car.

Im in much the same boat. I dont want a 30 either, so this is a great option :) and i'll be going the gtx3582r too :)

Food for thought..

You seem to think that a 'genuine tommy' is something special, get over it, its a body and nothing more...imo not a very nice body kit either.

30 bottom ends are the choice for drag racers and circuit racers and you say I want to make power but I dont like a 30 bottom end, why?

cheaper, easier to get parts, well proven, more down low grunt, will feed bigger turbo...

the title to this thread is right, Newbie?

Are you asking for advice or just telling people what your doing? whether your right or wrong seems irrelevant to you?

Im still keen to see what you do, and yep I'll applaud any effort put into building a decent functional car I just dont understand your comments sometimes and dont understand what this thread is actually about?

if you want to just boast, do a build thread, if want advice ask and accept answers

I do think its something special, thats the only reason I got it. I wouldnt buy a 'normal' GTST. Its a rare genuine car. You see skylines every single day of the week, you dont see a Tommy every day of the week, that makes it special to me. Its rare, so I want to leave it numbers matching. If it was a normal average 33 like yours for example, than I may be more inclinded drop a 30 bottom end in it because it wouldnt be special or worth much to me but with my car, that block is staying.

But think what you want. PS. its more than a body if you actually get to have a real good look at one.

Yes im new to the skylines, originally it was bought for my mrs as she used to own an R33 GTST and she wanted another one as a fun car. My exact words " if you really have to, get another 33, they are shit and ugly, so it wont matter if you smack something and bend it but I would prefer we get something else like an MPS or something".

Couple of weeks later, driving past this Tommy every day to and from work, it got the better of me and I had to go and have a look. I havent seen another one like it ever on the road and I travel all over Australia for work, see plenty of skylines, never another Tommy. Well except for a Tommy Kaira WRX, not sure if it was real or not.

Told the mrs about it, went and had another look, took it for a test drive and I was suprised more so than impressed, took ownership and since then the car has grown on me so much that I call it mine lol. Now, I love 33's. I really do. Im even contemplating trading my XR8 in on a R33 GTR for my daily which is a massive step for me.

This thread is a bit of both. Im asking for advice, but im also telling what I do and dont want. If i said I dont want a 30 bottom end, its that farking simple I dont, dont start ragging on the car, and saying im stupid for not spending the money on a 30 bottom end. I have my reasons for not wanting one, ive explained them, take it or leave it, dont push the point that I should get one.

A stroker is still a good idea, but again 4 out 5 tuners have said if you stay a 25 just carry more revs on board.

If I was at a show, and saw a 2 skylines, 1 RB25/30/28/83710/39/75coupe/69 whatever.. said he/she/it is 'only' making 450rwkw. I'd be like oh.. ok.. and probably walk away. If the other is an Rb25 making 450rwkw, I would think wow, impressive and actually want to talk to the owner/builder about whats been done and blah and ask if we can be friends hold hands and boost off into the sun set together.

Actually looking at the specs for an M25 it says it has forged internals?

if thats true I am actually impressed, admittedly I still dont like the bodykit though...

It wont be an original M25 once your done though, shame.

hey youve bought cams for it, if its the full m25 it already has tomei cams...

shame it doesnt have the real rims... and the tommy badge on the back

it doesnt have the TK brakes?

or the TK suspension?

but you can buy just the TK bodykit from them?

and it should have steel internal turbo, able to pushed to 17psi with a TK ecu, put it on a dyno and check boost pressure and see what it puts out before you mod it perhaps

if it doesnt have any of the mechanicals done the block is just another rb25 block? meaning its not full m25 anyways..

not trying to blow you out of the water, Im just actually interested now if it is a full m25 you should actually get it back to std TK spec, will be more desirable, than just another modded 33

hey youve bought cams for it, if its the full m25 it already has tomei cams...

shame it doesnt have the real rims... and the tommy badge on the back

it doesnt have the TK brakes?

or the TK suspension?

but you can buy just the TK bodykit from them?

and it should have steel internal turbo, able to pushed to 17psi with a TK ecu, put it on a dyno and check boost pressure and see what it puts out before you mod it perhaps

if it doesnt have any of the mechanicals done the block is just another rb25 block? meaning its not full m25 anyways..

not trying to blow you out of the water, Im just actually interested now if it is a full m25 you should actually get it back to std TK spec, will be more desirable, than just another modded 33

It is the real deal, it does have tomei cams which im in 2 minds about keeping or upgrading. It did have forged internals that are being replaced with new forged internals. Which is why I was so pissed when it dropped compression warranting a rebuild.

Some of the TK suspension is there, swaybars, strut braces and bodybrace etc, but its been changed to HKS coilovers - already on the car when purchased.

Im spewing that it doesnt have the standard TK wheels, I really am, as much as I like the ones on it, I want a set of the TK ones.

The turbo has been changed again before we got it, a friend says its a 3071 or 76 or something, I dont know, Its definately a ball baring garrett turbo.. i'll take it to GCG and get them to check it one of these days. But it did pull harder than a 13yr old. But after the initial hard hit it seemed to taper off.. like it wasnt a constant pull to limiter.

It does have a TK ecu, runs 1 bar standard but doesnt boost cut til 1.7bar and rev limiter is at 9200. unless the tacho is out.

Its also got a nismo carbon clutch, nismo diff, nismo fuel pump and injectors, also a TK fuel pump and fuel reg, coil cover, gauges, foot rest, intercooler, dash, GTR interior, all the bodykit peices have TK badges on them.

2 mechanics have looked at it, both said its the real deal, 1 even offered more then double what I paid for it and it wasn't running cause of low comp etc etc.

200 bucks for the badge on the back, it was flogged apparently, according to the importer. The only peice of the bodykit I could find was the rear spoiler and it was $3000 when I managed to find one. $160 for a TK gear nob.

Heres a fun fact though, When I managed to get the translation part down with someone from TK in Japan, I had to give them the build number, body number, car colour and a few other small details for them to comfirm if it was real, and they did,

Its an Option 2 Tommy Kaira R33 GTsT M25 salad maker lol.. I've got that email floating around somewhere. I had to give them my name/details and stuff so they can mail me a copy of a certificate of authenticity and builder name , that should of been with the car that I obviously didnt have. See, i've spent alot of time on finiky stuff to do with this car, so its special to me now, some love it, some hate it, some say its just a fancy kit. I know what it is, I know how rare it is, I know its genuine.

I've thought long and hard about leaving it standard TK spec, but also thought there are others out there, so why not have the only TK33 that has 700hp lol.

Man one day if your in sydney, when Im actually home, feel free to drop me a line and look at it for yourself. Im usually only home 1 week of the month.. But when it is finished one day, it will end up on SAU drag days, cruises, drift and skid pan days and whatever else comes along.

Correct me if im wrong, but with a stroker, because the rod/piston's dont actually have to travel as far, then there is less force/momentum being created.. Therefore you can actually rev higher.

Rod to stroke ratio and just generally the stroke compare to the bore is what determines stuff like this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
    • yess of course im not using 2nd hand parts from my spare engine, but the place where i live is hard to find parts for the RB20DET ,but for the RB20E is everywhere including new ones and a lot cheaper ,because for the RB20DET you have to order it overseas to get one and it cost a lot of money 3x the price to be exact. so i ask this topic because if i can use the new ones but for RB20E is it compatible or not. if not im screwed haha, not totally screwed but i have to save a lot of money first before i can begin repairing my engine, thanks for the information before.
    • Unless my sensor just died, was only a couple months old, I strongly believe it didn't. How can I test it? I never mentioned it being 20:1+?
×
×
  • Create New...