Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dont know what it is for, maybe for heated rear view mirrors? The R30 models have the great feature that if your windows were down after you turned the engine off, if you opened the drivers door the centre console window switches could be used to close the windows. It could not have costed much to incorporate in any model. I wonder why Nissan dropped it.

Edited by 66yostagea

what about the other buttons? do any of them work without keys?

one thing i've been meaning to look into is the lock/unlock switch. does yours work with the keys out? mine does, even with the car alarmed mine does. what i'm worried about is that means anyone can slide a bit of wire or something past the window seal and press that button and my doors unlock (well except the drivers side) easy way to break-in.

one way around this is to feed the power to that switch from the window switches feed, as they only work with the ignition turned on.

what about the other buttons? do any of them work without keys?

one thing i've been meaning to look into is the lock/unlock switch. does yours work with the keys out? mine does, even with the car alarmed mine does. what i'm worried about is that means anyone can slide a bit of wire or something past the window seal and press that button and my doors unlock (well except the drivers side) easy way to break-in.

one way around this is to feed the power to that switch from the window switches feed, as they only work with the ignition turned on.

Dont know how similar the Stags are, but i know the r33's passenger door can be unlocked using the button on the drivers door contorls without the ignition etc.

I disabled the unlocking ability of the button by cutting a certain wire, this is exactly what i thought when i first saw it.

So if you can lock the passenger door with that button, but cant unlock it, this would be the likely reason

Dont know how similar the Stags are, but i know the r33's passenger door can be unlocked using the button on the drivers door contorls without the ignition etc.

I disabled the unlocking ability of the button by cutting a certain wire, this is exactly what i thought when i first saw it.

So if you can lock the passenger door with that button, but cant unlock it, this would be the likely reason

i want to try and tie mine into the alarm. so when its armed that switch wont work. should be easy enough just got to get motivated to do it.

i want to try and tie mine into the alarm. so when its armed that switch wont work. should be easy enough just got to get motivated to do it.

Yea im sure it could be done by any capable person with a bit of auto elec knowledge.

But i dont even use mine, never have used mine, so the fact i can still lock the passenger side and not unlock it is fine with me :happy:

Pulled the drivers door skin off to check the speaker condition and found this wiring mod to the window switches, does anyone know what it is, does or what for?

Cheers

Aaron

maybe your alarm puts all the windows up when you arm it?

My drivers door switchs can lock and unlock all the doors regardless of key situation, and I can use my windows for about 10 secs after ignition off. I just wish the stagea was like my wifes beetle. You can use the key in the door lock to open and close the windows.

Edited by lilcrash

So the other day I decided to rejoin the wires to see what happens. Now the drivers door window stays active until the keys are removed and the drivers door is opened then closed. After it is closed to window becoms inactive. I like it better this way as I usually notice the window is slightly open as I am exiting the vehicle. :thumbsup:

So the other day I decided to rejoin the wires to see what happens. Now the drivers door window stays active until the keys are removed and the drivers door is opened then closed. After it is closed to window becoms inactive. I like it better this way as I usually notice the window is slightly open as I am exiting the vehicle. :thumbsup:

thats how mine it, but it only works on the drivers door

maybe they tried to mod it so that it worked on all the windows?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...