Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Gearbox Help Asap

tm_r33
 Share

Recommended Posts

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
Posted

hi all... took the gearbox out of my 33 as it was locking me out of 3rd and 4th and felt pretty shagged. upon inspection it is evident i will need 3rd 4th and 5th gear dogs. will need syncros for those gears. and then a few minor things.

as you may know. buying 3rd is simple enough... buying 4th isnt, because 4th comes with input shaft and other parts as a gear set... and to get the syncro for 5th you need to buy the reverse gear which only comes as a gear set blah blah blah and yes it added up to well over $3k for the parts from nissan... probably closer to 4k with bearings seals and gst lol.

so i went back to the workshop and soon located a z31 turbo 5 speed box for $1000...... how does this compare to rb25 box....????

i also located a z32 turbo 5 speed box for $1500... which i know is superior to rb25 box.... but does it bolt up to rb25/rb30...??? or do i need bellhousing adaptor????

and yes i know i could just buy another rb25 box but if i was destroying them with my rb25 at the track i dont think they will last long with the new 25/30 setup thats ready to go in when i find a box!!!

im really keen to buy the z32 box as i know its stronger than r33 box and its only about same price as another 33 box. will it fit in the floor tunnel of 33 gtst???

thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366382-need-gearbox-help-asap/
Share on other sites
tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

im now looking on some other forums and reading that z32tt box is nearly identicle to 33gtst box and there is no strength difference???

and that both are pretty much just a rwd version of the 32 gtr box.

do i buy z32 tt box??

33gtst box??

or try to convince bank i need another 10 grand for my car to buy a ppg gearset which i doubt they will lend lol

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

after a day of litrally looking at seperated boxes and speaking to a few people and a helpful pm from another member i can conclude that... 5speed gtr, 33gtst, z32 are all the same internally. identicle.

they all just use different bellhousing and extension housing and of course gtr is setup for 4wd application. (z32 has slightly different shifter setup i think but no real drama)

z31 box i knew was single syncro so assumed it was different and with confirmation from a forum member and an outside source i can confirm it is like the vlt box.

thread can be closed unless anyone has anything to add.

cheers. james

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      V37 wreck

      By MBS206 · Posted

      $53.35 and a double din Pioneer head unit that I have...
    • MBS206
      Shifting questions

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Put a camera facing your dashboard so you can film the gauges. Head out to a straight but of road, and filming it as you go from a stand still at wide open throttle to as fast as you can/feel comfortable doing. Then film the dash board as you for example accelerate like normal onto a freeway. This will give us an indicator from Speedo of your expectation of slow, and will give us the rpm reading too to see if it's shifting. (Auto still has tacho from memory)
    • MBS206
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself the cooling system pressure tester. Being able to pump it up, and have a gauge on it, AND have a cold engine makes it much easier / practical to diagnose. Additionally as the engine isn't running, you can listen for pin hole leaks as well as watching if pressure drops away. In addition, you can pressurise and while doing so, watch all the little rubber hoses. Some fail very brittle, and will just leak, while others can end up very soft and bulge. While a bulging hose isn't necessarily leaking, one of those small ones starting to stretch / expand in a bad way is an indicator that you'll be looking to replace that one soon   Depending on if this is a project car, or you'll be dailying it in the summer months would alter how I'd be most comfortable with driving the car and how I'd replace. If you're planning to use it as a daily, with no backup, I'd pull the engine, and replace all the external oil/water lines in one big swoop. At the same time do the timing belt, water pump, tensioners etc. Do not open the engine at all. We just want to replace all the things that are inexpensive as a single item, but a PITA when they go. By doing the above, you've made the car from a bunch of age related issues more reliable. If it's a project, and you like swearing while trying to reach into dirty hard to reach places to replace a single hose that may or may not be the leaky one. Just replace the leaking/bad ones as they need it. If it's a project and you'd rather swear at the car once and enjoy it as much as possible, then refer to the process I mentioned in how I'd want to do it if it were a daily. However, the approaches above do come down to how much spare pocket change you have. Pulling the engine and dropping over a thousand dollars on parts, may not be practical for you. Oh, if engine outing, I'd replace as many silicon/rubber inlet joiners as possible too.
    • dbm7
      Shifting questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Yeah, they're pretty dumb though...ie; they'll throw a solenoid error if the solenoid is dead, shorted, wiring is open circuit, or even if the driver transistor has failed (they can't self-diagnose much, they can only test inputs/outputs)... but if you wanted to try, I believe it's this protocol....(uses a long pulse indicator with short pulse counter)...    
    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Yeah I'll do what I can without taking off any major parts for now. If it becomes clear I won't get far with the engine in the car I'll have to think about the next steps. I am not too stuck on keeping everything 100% OEM, if there is better solutions, like converting most lines to braided with AN adapters, I'd rather do that than buy overpriced new "shit" parts.
×
×
  • Create New...