Negative Camber Kits M35

[WAGON_BOY]

hey,

i was reading somewhere altho i cant find it now that the 350Z camber kits could possibly fit the M35 stagea's...............

is there anyway in finding this out via part numbers or whatever ???

http://www.rhdjapan....cpv35-z33-63707

also looking for the rear aswell.

just looking into it before i lower the car to make sure that i can keep similar camber when dumped as to not destroy tyres!!!

Edited June 2, 2011 by WAGON_BOY

[WAGON_BOY]

found it..........

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-STAGEA-M35-SKYLINE-V35-350Z-REAR-TOE-ARMS-/360370923175?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e7c7e6a7

there was a front also of the same but its not there atm

[impul535w]

found it..........

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-STAGEA-M35-SKYLINE-V35-350Z-REAR-TOE-ARMS-/360370923175?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e7c7e6a7

there was a front also of the same but its not there atm

Correct me if I'm wrong but how will toe arms fix your camber issue? Wouldn't you need an adjustable rear upper arm?

[bigkevracer]

I have a set of those sitting in the shed to go in with the sway bars. I was told by the guy on ebay when I enquired that it was pretty much a must have for lowered cars, and if the car wasn't lowered, they're thicker and stronger than the OEM items so you'd get better handling.

Since I haven't got them on yet, I can't tell you what they're like, but if you wait a week or two I'll be able to let you know (although going on at the same time as the sway bars I won't be able to give you a definitive answer!).

[Daleo]

Correct me if I'm wrong but how will toe arms fix your camber issue? Wouldn't you need an adjustable rear upper arm?

You're actually right, the toe arm will stop you scrubbing the tyres out at really low ride heights; as the suspension compresses; the toe arm straightens. Factory arms often don't have enough adjustment to cope with extreme lowering.

Instead of pointing slightly down, effectively becomes longer as it becomes parallel. This pushes the back edge of the tyre out; increasing toe. This basically forces the tyre to scrub across the road surface at an angle.

Adjustable upper arms are available; as are eccentric bush kits for the upper arms, to push the top of the wheel out; reducing negative camber.

If you could get enough adjustment; I'd be inclined to use eccentric bushes rather than aftermarket arms, as most are fitted with pillowball joints or rod end style joints, these transfer a lot of NVH into the car, whereas urethane bushings are much better at damping vibration. Of course if you can get hold of well made rubber bushed arms; go for it.

Also pillowball style joints can wear quite badly in street driven cars unless very well weather sealed and greased regularly. The ones fitted to the cheaper arms are sometimes of poor quality and wear very quickly.

The other thing to remember is that depending on your ride height; it may not even be necessary to use camber correction equipment.

I'm running hub centre to arch measurements of 360mm front and 350mm rear; not especially low, but low enough, and I have 1deg neg camber all round.

Between 1 to 1.5 deg neg is optimum for a street car anyway.

Edited June 2, 2011 by Daleo

[iamhe77]

But if you had an adjustable rear lower arm, you could shorten it a little over the stock one to pull the lower part of the wheel "in", thus removing excessive camber.

Especially useful to minimise camber wear if running wide rear wheels.

Install vid on a G35

http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gsedan/projects/infiniti_g35_rear_camber_kit_installation.htm

[WAGON_BOY]

cheers Dale you always have an awesome answer LOL

[Daleo]

But if you had an adjustable rear lower arm, you could shorten it a little over the stock one to pull the lower part of the wheel "in", thus removing excessive camber.

Especially useful to minimise camber wear if running wide rear wheels.

Install vid on a G35

http://infinitihelp....nstallation.htm

Cheers Cam, that was what I was trying to say; " the toe arm will stop you scrubbing the tyres out at really low ride heights; as the suspension compresses; the toe arm straightens. Factory arms often don't have enough adjustment to cope with extreme lowering."

Might've gotten lost in my blathering...

[iamhe77]

Cheers Cam, that was what I was trying to say; " the toe arm will stop you scrubbing the tyres out at really low ride heights; as the suspension compresses; the toe arm straightens. Factory arms often don't have enough adjustment to cope with extreme lowering."

Might've gotten lost in my blathering...

Hahaha, you said it right, but I started reading it and then spaced out for some reason (not a rare occurrence).

Just put it out there in "pleb speak" so I could understand (and to make sure I was right in my thinking )

[ironpaw]

OK, so how low do I need to go before I need to use all these adjustable toe/camber arms?

my Coilovers arrived today...yay!

[iamhe77]

You can use them at stock ride height if you want.

I noticed severe camber wear when I had 18x7.5" Nismo's (Nismo suspension is 20-25mm lower than stock).

Whilst I want to get some wheels, no chance I would do so again before installing a rear camber kit installed.

[zei20l]

that wasnt camber wear on those wheels dude. that was badly aligned toe

[Daleo]

You can use them at stock ride height if you want.

I noticed severe camber wear when I had 18x7.5" Nismo's (Nismo suspension is 20-25mm lower than stock).

Whilst I want to get some wheels, no chance I would do so again before installing a rear camber kit installed.

It's interesting though, 'cos I'm lower than your Nismo 20-25mm, probably more like 35-40mm, and I have perfectly even wear on my rear tyres. I'm almost on the treadwear limits, and although the tyres were flipped on the rims around 8000km ago, they're spot on.

I've seen the type of wear you're describing; like a huge scallop that extends an 40mm into the tread and normally almost down to the cords. One of my original tyres exhibited this, and I was always worried about it, but it never eventuated.

[ironpaw]

hmmmmmm

I guess I could lower the car and see?

I'd rather get it all done at once though...

So toe arms are all I need? or get the camber arms as well?

[Daleo]

hmmmmmm

I guess I could lower the car and see?

I'd rather get it all done at once though...

So toe arms are all I need? or get the camber arms as well?

I'd lower it , then speak to your aligner; get them to measure and make a decision.

How low are you going to go? Measure from hub centre to guard; that way wheel/ tyre diameter doesn't add variables. You'll probably find someone is running ride height roughly where you're planning, and you might get a idea that way.

[KiwiRS4T]

Was looking on the Cusco site for front upper camber control arms for my WGNC34 - they are 323 479A

I couldn't find a listing for the M35. Maybe someone else makes one?

Fairlady 33 (presumably the 350Z) was 251 474 K

Here's the site if you want a look http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/

[zei20l]

Z33 (fairlady z) and V35 are the same AFAIK. the front upper arm are the same on AWD and RWD models......

[alexvd275]

I recently test fitted my 19x8.5" 25p wheels with a 25mm spacer to try and see how aggressive I could go with my fitment (I bought a pair of 19x10.5" wheels that I'd like to put on the rear but I can see that it's going to be borderline).

Measurement from the center of the hub to the arch is 337mm which is pretty spot on for the look that I am going for. However the suspension is far too slack (BC BR coilovers) in the rear and the tyre scrubs on the arch every time I turn a corner. I called the shop where I bought the coilovers from and they said that they can sell me firmer springs for the rear for NZD $125 which I thought wasn't too bad and my understanding is that a firmer spring rate in the rear would help limit body roll even more.

My question for you guys; are there any aftermarket adjustable arms that I should be looking at to get a small amount of camber in the wheel so that I have at least some hope of fitting the 19x10.5" wheels when they arrive?

I'm pretty noob when it comes to suspension, I just want to maximise handling while still having a semi- flush fitment.

[Brick]

I recently test fitted my 19x8.5" 25p wheels with a 25mm spacer to try and see how aggressive I could go with my fitment (I bought a pair of 19x10.5" wheels that I'd like to put on the rear but I can see that it's going to be borderline).

Measurement from the center of the hub to the arch is 337mm which is pretty spot on for the look that I am going for. However the suspension is far too slack (BC BR coilovers) in the rear and the tyre scrubs on the arch every time I turn a corner. I called the shop where I bought the coilovers from and they said that they can sell me firmer springs for the rear for NZD $125 which I thought wasn't too bad and my understanding is that a firmer spring rate in the rear would help limit body roll even more.

My question for you guys; are there any aftermarket adjustable arms that I should be looking at to get a small amount of camber in the wheel so that I have at least some hope of fitting the 19x10.5" wheels when they arrive?

I'm pretty noob when it comes to suspension, I just want to maximise handling while still having a semi- flush fitment.

Maximizing handling and stretch tyres don't really go hand in hand. Question is do you want handling or hard parking styling?

[Ben C34]

And if the tyre will hit the guard, stiffer springs doesn't fix that. It means it will happen less often, but will still happen.