Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does any one have knowledge or has seen a V36 convertible here in Oz? Abit of conflicting info out there on the web.. read up on prestige motor sports.com.au no chance of importing it in here doesn't qualify with SEVS but have seen it on the raws site. So whats to go??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366545-v36-convertible/
Share on other sites

does any one have knowledge or has seen a V36 convertible here in Oz? Abit of conflicting info out there on the web.. read up on prestige motor sports.com.au no chance of importing it in here doesn't qualify with SEVS but have seen it on the raws site. So whats to go??

http://www.carsales....97730&silo=1011

there are a couple in WA by the looks of it

Yeah, there's some in WA now.

I've seen them and they look nice. But the price is still up the roof. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366545-v36-convertible/#findComment-5847547
Share on other sites

Nealy AU$80k.

You can see it in carsales link. :P

Yes I did see it in the carsales like theres 2 a pearl white, and platinum one dont know if its the same dealer. Must say VERY nice!!!!! But I think if it had red leathers that would be the icing on the cake.. Looks like I know what my next machine is gonna be :).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366545-v36-convertible/#findComment-5848281
Share on other sites

Is that an actual Infiniti with a RHD conversion or has somebody replaced the badges/seats/steering wheel on a 307GT? Impressive work either way as that is a great looking car.

Could be a European market car. Be interesting to see what language the dash is in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366545-v36-convertible/#findComment-5848583
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

car is UK spec so dash is in MPH (primary) and yes the systems are in english. maps are still xeanavi / zenrin though. been talking to a few people about them.

its the head unit that I would be interested in and wouldnt take more than 10 minutes to get it out and see how many plugs it has and try it on a Jap car if the plugs match.

My v36 already has a non japanese cluster which is in Klm's

The main unit still does my head in however.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366545-v36-convertible/#findComment-6160706
Share on other sites

its the head unit that I would be interested in and wouldnt take more than 10 minutes to get it out and see how many plugs it has and try it on a Jap car if the plugs match.

My v36 already has a non japanese cluster which is in Klm's

The main unit still does my head in however.

Where did you get the cluster? Pic?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366545-v36-convertible/#findComment-6160973
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...