Jump to content
SAU Community

  

93 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

tacho mate. Maximum tune style lol

:thumbsup:

IMO unless you do this then you are either limiter bashing or not getting peak HP.

otherwise if you are just cruising around then why would one need anything other than just a general feel. Doesnt really matter if it goes to 2800rpm or 3500rpm at 1/3 throttle really does it...? But thats not really the scenario for this quesiton is it?

Edited by jjman

I use to use feeling, but since i just got my skyline and have only driven it once, i used the taco and feeling, only until i get a feel of things

taco.jpg

Edited by Miguelone

R34 in tiptronic mode - usually 4000rpm to 6000rpm. Driving easy auto shifts around 2000rpm to 2500rpm

IS200 (manual) - I generally shift on sound and feel, except on steep hill starts - I use the tacho. Normal driving shift around 2500rpm to 3200rpm. Down hill I shift at 1800rpm.

Datsun bluebird - 4000rpm

I tell usually by sound at lower gears and tacho at higher gears, and in practice (on the street) I always short shift before 5000rpm. I probably exceed 5000rpm about once per week at most (daily driving). Can't remember the last time I went past 6000rpm, on the street it just isn't required (theoretically it would be required for a drag race).

On the street in 1st and 2nd gear with any sort of corner I short shift to get into the next gear so I can ride the torque wave through and out of the corner. This means precise throttle modulation is less of a factor and it saves a gear change and means less wear(2nd has more power but can't usually put it all to the ground). Adding bumps into the equation in Sydney just makes it even more relevant.

Just cruising I change at the point the revs start at 2000rpm -2200rpm in the next gear....or what feels right.

what's the point of having the car if you don't gun it a few times per drive?

Might as well drive a kia :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Install a MAP sensor pre and post throttle. Best data you could have for NA, then play with the bends and/or air box and see how much of inflection is created at WOT on the plot.
    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
×
×
  • Create New...