Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

From Streeter:

1 Nissan B5230-79972 - Part number changed to B5230-79982 - 1,050yen. in stock.

2 Nissan B5370-89940 - 3,465yen. will be Jun 15 if we order now.

3 Nissan B6331-AQ000 - discontinued.

4 Nissan B6336-AQ000 - discontinued.

Blah. Bloody nissan

Do I need to worry about the change in part number for the switch?

Well I have the left hand fog light assembly completely removed, so I can start looking for a suitably sized replacement light.

If I was to chase someone local to make fibreglass/carbon fibre light surrounds, how many people would be interested?

As an aside, the Narva HIDs I was looking at were $1k, so I'm looking at going Narva spotlights for ~$100 and a HID conversion kit for ~$90. $190 HIDs sound a lot better than $1k HIDs, and I really think with the driving I do spotlights will be better than fog lights.

  • 2 months later...

Jethro & Dale - I have the 2 x Switches and 2 x Relays from Nissan Japan with me :thumbsup: . Also clarified with three sources that Foglight Shrouds are NLA. There was a slight chance that Nissanin Sapporo had some but no go!

Jethro & Dale - I have the 2 x Switches and 2 x Relays from Nissan Japan with me :thumbsup: . Also clarified with three sources that Foglight Shrouds are NLA. There was a slight chance that Nissanin Sapporo had some but no go!

Thanks for all your effort Jason; PM replied.:thumbsup:

Re foglights; I think Jethro is gonna hook me up; right?:whistling:

Edited by Daleo

i currently have the aero bar with the fog lights section blocked out. id love some fog lights for it.. really i dont even care if they work or not.. i want them for aesthetic reasons! :) keep me in mind if anyone is placing an order!

i currently have the aero bar with the fog lights section blocked out. id love some fog lights for it.. really i dont even care if they work or not.. i want them for aesthetic reasons! :) keep me in mind if anyone is placing an order!

I've got 2 sets of foglights. Well I've got a set sitting at home doing nothing. Another set on an Aero bar that's on its way in from JPN. The complete set is destined for Dale :thumbsup:

If you've interested gimme a holla. The owner issue is you're going to have to find the plastic surround shroud thingies for them...apparently a mob in Russia has them for about $55 a peice + shipping.

Edited by ironpaw

i was thinking about replacing mine with HID driving lights. it might be difficult to retro fit them to the factory aero lights.

Exactly why mine aren't mounted up yet.

I'm thinking I may have to use the existing brackets and weld something onto them to mount the new spotty to. I need to get more active about that because I want them in for the drive to Melbourne.

Don't buy HID lights though, they're around the $1k mark for decent ones in that size. I got a pair of standard Narva Compac 100s for ~$70, plus a HID conversion kit on eBay for ~$70. Win.

I think the best way is to take the standard mounts off the spot light, bolt them into the bumper, then measure up and weld some brackets in between to mount the light onto.

You can mount them on the bumper (I think), but I don't think it'd be great, as they'd move around too much.

DONT buy HIDs?? if i didnt want HID then the standard ones would be fine :)

however, i WANT HID lol

i think an H1 modified to fit in the hole will work. just gotta go to jaycar with the lamp assembly and try a few out.

No I meant don't buy specialised HIDs, get a conversion kit. Epically cheaper.

So you're going to modify the standard lamps and retain the lenses? Put in a HID kit or something?

I've got 2 sets of foglights. Well I've got a set sitting at home doing nothing. Another set on an Aero bar that's on its way in from JPN. The complete set is destined for Dale :thumbsup:

If you've interested gimme a holla. The owner issue is you're going to have to find the plastic surround shroud thingies for them...apparently a mob in Russia has them for about $55 a peice + shipping.

Doubt the Russian mob do actually have them?? Worth buying for someone if they do.....

Now that you are getting the Nismo bar - you also have a spare set of fogs with switch and relay available then??? How much did it end out costing for shipping on the bar - pm if you like...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah the ACL and similar formable heat shielding materials are really nice. But most people do not have the patience or talent to do a good job like that. Almost anything is better than nothing though. Even if you didn't form it closely like that and just had a slab of it slipped in between the manifold and somewhere/thing you wanted to protect, you would gain benefit. There has to be a market opportunity for people like Artec to make formed heatshields to suit their cast manifolds. The fact that they are cast means that they are consistently the exact same dimensions and they could add bosses to the castings like you see on stockers to allow heat shields to be firmly attached yet floating away from the manifold itself.
    • I've seen some stuff like this as well, not sure if it's a good idea or anything but it does have more standoff from the piping than the conventional fiberglass wrap:  
    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
×
×
  • Create New...