Jump to content
SAU Community

How Much Oil Do N1 Rb26 Oil Pumps Flow

muchogarcia34
 Share

Recommended Posts

muchogarcia34 Collaborator

muchogarcia34

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

Got a question. I'm building a RB25/30 (Neo) and my builder is wanting to not run restrictors in the block and have as much oil all around as possible. Now I will be running a ASR comp sump and N1 oil pump with billet gears and thought this would be sufficient. In his eyes the pump is shit and won't flow enough oil and he wants to add an additional exterior pump, still wet sump, which I really don't think is necessary. Mainly because I don't want to spend the $$$$ where it may not be required.

So my question is will the pump be sufficient to run without the recommended restrictors? He is wanting me to run near on 8 bar of pressure all the time which is huge! This car will be street driven, but will see track events through the year.

Gear I am running is -

CP pistons 8.5:1 (20thou over)

Spool Rods

ACL bearings

TRUST 1.2mm Head Gasket

ROSS balancer

ASR Sump

N1 Oil Pump

N1 Water Pump

Tomei Poncams

Plazmaman Plenum

GT35 Turbo w .82 rear

Oil Cooler so and so forth

Looking to run between 20 - 25psi and 450 - 500hp

So what do you guys think? Is he going over the top or what do you see wrong with what he is doing, ie. not restricting oil to the head. Also restricting oil to the head, is this purely due to too much oil being present or any other reason. He seems to think that I'm sorta robbing the head to keep oil down the bottom end to save bearings, whereas I thought it was purely because you end up flooding the head.

Cheers

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

What happens when you flood the head with oil is that there is now a lack of oil down below and you end up with starvation related bearing issues.

Why recreate the wheel? OEM pumps and restrictors are proven to work..

Oh and an N1 pump flows more than enough, hell you even have to use restrictors with an RB30E pump when running a twincam head.

muchogarcia34 Collaborator

muchogarcia34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah what he's saying is that I'm robbing Peter to pay Paul by limiting oil to the head in order to feed the bearings down low. Now he wants to keep the head well lubricated and the bearings too.......... Which is why he's saying get another pump..

This guy builds drag engines which so far have lasted 7 - 8 years and counting so he wants this thing to last forever and wants to have everything right. But I'm not trying to run 1500hp like he is haha. I need some convincing that all this extra stuff is going to be worth it.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

lol two oil pumps for a RB?

Go somewhere else dude. The guy is on crack and wasting your money.

N1 pump is fine, you need restrictors and enlarged oil returns - End of story.

You rob Paul to pay Peter with his recommendation (ie, backwards).

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted

What happens with warranty if you do follow his advice, After the breather blow their load every time you rev it, then the head will have to come off. You dont restrict the head to increase pressure to the bottom end, you do it because there is too much flow to the head standard.

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Can I guess that he (the engine builder) builds a lot of small block chevs and that's about it. I would really like to know what he wants to achieve with 8 bar of oil pressure and flooding the top end with oil.

Like the others have said find someone else

DR 32R Rising Star

DR 32R

Posted
Posted (edited)

Take it to someone with a shop full of RBs, and a driveway full of RB powered vehicles. Who drives an RB powered vehicle. Bring him a holden 253 or falcon 6.I consider someone who does a lot of VL turbos the 'minimum standard".What is the volume of your sump? if it is large 8-9 L ?May compensate for the lack of oil restriction. If your billet gears are reimax (are you sure they are?) they may well NOT empty a special sump. It seems more like the Nitto, Tomei, Jun pumps that are more super high pressure and flow. Perhaps the need for some/all of the possible "oil control" mods are exaggerated.

A link stating N1 is not all that high flowing...

http://webbersrbguid...nical&Itemid=22

Edited by WHITE gtt
DR 32R Rising Star

DR 32R

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah what he's saying is that I'm robbing Peter to pay Paul by limiting oil to the head in order to feed the bearings down low. Now he wants to keep the head well lubricated and the bearings too.......... Which is why he's saying get another pump..

This guy builds drag engines which so far have lasted 7 - 8 years and counting so he wants this thing to last forever and wants to have everything right. But I'm not trying to run 1500hp like he is haha. I need some convincing that all this extra stuff is going to be worth it.

Does he mean twin pumps? Then LOL. If he means he wants you to get a NITTO tomei, JUN greddy or nismo instead of your N1, he may be appropriately cautious. Every time a Read an RB oil control thread there are differences of opinion, but nearly every established builder runs restrictors with a high flow pump.I believe the neo is a solid head that doesn't need that much oil.

Edited by WHITE gtt
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Take it to someone with a shop full of RBs, and a driveway full of RB powered vehicles. Who drives an RB powered vehicle. Bring him a holden 253 or falcon 6.I consider someone who does a lot of VL turbos the 'minimum standard".What is the volume of your sump? if it is large 8-9 L ?May compensate for the lack of oil restriction. If your billet gears are reimax (are you sure they are?) they may well NOT empty a special sump. It seems more like the Nitto, Tomei, Jun pumps that are more super high pressure and flow. Perhaps the need for some/all of the possible "oil control" mods are exaggerated.

A link stating N1 is not all that high flowing...

http://webbersrbguid...nical&Itemid=22

You can still empty a standard sump with even an RB30E pump if you have no restrictors.

James_03 Mentor

James_03

Posted
Posted

It's just a simple case of he has limited knowledge on the subject.

N1 with billet gears, and run restrictors as per the guide on here. Just pull rank on him and tell him how it's going to be, it's your engine.

If there is any debate about warranty just walk now, complete the rest of the work elsewhere.

muchogarcia34 Collaborator

muchogarcia34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to go see him tomorrow and let him know I don't want to do it, if he has a problem with it or won't warranty the engine I'll walk. They're really good engine builders but I think he's just taking it too extreme for what I want to do with it.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

seriously all that set-up is going to do is fill your head with oil. it won't be able to return to the sump quick enough. I hope at the minimum he's ported/enlarge the oil returns or it'll be even worse. there's nothing wrong with an N1 pump with good gears in it.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to go see him tomorrow and let him know I don't want to do it, if he has a problem with it or won't warranty the engine I'll walk. They're really good engine builders but I think he's just taking it too extreme for what I want to do with it.

They may good at building v8 drag engines but it sounds like they know nothing about building RB's. Just the sheer mention of NO restrictors and a bigger oil pump would make me RUN in the other direction.

Just take your bits to Southside and be done with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
    • PotatoCake
      Has anyone put in brand new full carpet? (not floor mats)

      By PotatoCake · Posted

      Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • MBS206
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
    • Ty1
      Hicas ball joint install tool

      By Ty1 · Posted

      Can also confirm these work a treat for most balljoints and bushes. If you have access to a big rattle gun, they make the job so much easier and quicker, compared to using a socket wrench or shifter on the c-clamp 👍
    • djr81
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By djr81 · Posted

      Its sort of street but got used for circuit sprints on account of I never drive it on the road because I dont have the time to spare. So it usage was sits around for months at a time then gets driven either 50 or 250 kms to the track followed by 20 laps followed by 50 or 250kms home followed by stuck in the shed until next time. So yeah neither fish nor fowl. Just dont want to break it on the track as a preference. Hence the fairly short sensor/mod list. Probably more worried about it pinging itself to destruction more so than anything oil related.
×
×
  • Create New...