Early Vs Late R32 Gtr Brake Rotors

[ODYSSEYGTR]

Im on the DBA website and looking at some 5000 series rotors but well they are only available for the late models apparently,

was wondering if this is really the case, is there a difference?

cheers

[Duncan]

The DBA catalogue is a little unclear.

Base model GTRs (R32, all dates) had 296x 32mm discs. They run a grey/green rotor with either nissan or sumitomo brand (can't remember)

Vspec GTRs (R32) had the same brembos as R33 and R34, 324 x 32mm. The caliper is black and has Brembo on it

So, unless you have the brembo brakes, you need the smaller discs. They are still a pretty capable setup compared to most facotry cars.

For interest, R33 GTSt had 296x30mm discs, so in practice the base model r32 gtr and the 33 gtst brakes are interchangeable

[Moodles2]

My R32 GTR is a February 1994 build, and I have standard Nissan sumitomo's that every other BNR32 has. Only diff between R32 GTR and 33 GTST is that one is 30mm thick and the other is 32mm thck.

[MrStabby]

My R32 GTR is a February 1994 build, and I have standard Nissan sumitomo's that every other BNR32 has. Only diff between R32 GTR and 33 GTST is that one is 30mm thick and the other is 32mm thck.

Yep, as Duncan says only the Vspec 32 got the brembos.

Also, weren't the 324mm rotors with the brembos only 30mm wide?

[djr81]

Yes - probably why the things have a propensity to warp.

[BunsenBurna]

If I can revive this thread...

Will Nissan/Sumitomo calipers (i.e. non brembo) work with aftermarket 324mm rotors? Or will I have to upgrade my calipers as well if I go to 324mm rotors?

Thanks in advance!

[MrStabby]

You can space the caliper out with an adapter that makes the sumitomos work with the gtr 324mm rotors - i had the UAS one for a while. The caliper seems to work fine despite the 324mm rotor being 2mm thinner if that's what you're worried about.

[BunsenBurna]

You can space the caliper out with an adapter that makes the sumitomos work with the gtr 324mm rotors - i had the UAS one for a while. The caliper seems to work fine despite the 324mm rotor being 2mm thinner if that's what you're worried about.

Thanks for the reply. It is exactly this conundrum I am facing at the moment - stick with 296mm rotor and use a DBA4000 for a cheap upgrade; or getting bigger wheels (e.g. R34 GTR) and go to a 324mm rotor with the UAS adapter.

When you say you had one for a while, what was the rest of your setup/why did you get rid of it/did the car stop good while you had it?!

Cheers

[MrStabby]

When you say you had one for a while, what was the rest of your setup/why did you get rid of it/did the car stop good while you had it?!

I had a lot of problems with brakes at the track - and made a number of changes, some of which werent required in hindsight..... I dont think there was any problem with the UAS adapters (though there is a fair bit of grinding to make them fit). I still have them in a box somewhere.... The DBA4000s i got cracked tho, so I would you avoid them if they still have that retarded, almost radial, slot design.

I'm running the D2/G4 330mm kit now. Its definitely better, but more expensive.

What are you running now and what problems do you have? Are you up for rotors now?

[BunsenBurna]

What are you running now and what problems do you have? Are you up for rotors now?

Currently everything is stock as a rock - OE 296mm rotors and the standard Nissan/Sumitomo caliper with an unknown pad. At the cars first track day at Wakefield on 28/5/2011, I had a lot of vibration and not a lot of stopping power by the end of the day. Stopped well enough at first though, but I wasn't pushing it too much.

I am definitely up for rotors now and have been quoted for a pair of DBA4000 XS which with decent pads I understand will do the job for a while. It's relatively cheap (under $800) which is a factor.

And here's the but: I'd like to be doing more track days ideally once per month or every two months at least. If I spend more on a brake upgrade now, will it save me more later and most importantly will I be doing better lap times sooner? If the answer to this is yes, then I need new, bigger wheels and tyres as well so the costs are escalating exponentially!

Who thought motorsport would be expensive?! haha

[MrStabby]

Who thought motorsport would be expensive?! haha

Yeah the vibration is what caused me problems....

If I were you, i'd start with;

- Check rotors with verniers, if 30mm or over, keep them

- get a set of track pads in the fronts at least - Ferodo DS3000, EBC Yellow etc. Swap them in just before you drive to the track, then put the current ones back in when you get home

And see how that goes.

My car already had 17s, so the 324/330s weren't a problem.

[djr81]

Currently everything is stock as a rock - OE 296mm rotors and the standard Nissan/Sumitomo caliper with an unknown pad. At the cars first track day at Wakefield on 28/5/2011, I had a lot of vibration and not a lot of stopping power by the end of the day. Stopped well enough at first though, but I wasn't pushing it too much.

I am definitely up for rotors now and have been quoted for a pair of DBA4000 XS which with decent pads I understand will do the job for a while. It's relatively cheap (under $800) which is a factor.

And here's the but: I'd like to be doing more track days ideally once per month or every two months at least. If I spend more on a brake upgrade now, will it save me more later and most importantly will I be doing better lap times sooner? If the answer to this is yes, then I need new, bigger wheels and tyres as well so the costs are escalating exponentially!

Who thought motorsport would be expensive?! haha

Vibration is usually because the rotor is warped & they need skimming.

The stock R32 gear is really not up to much. The rotors are too small, the callipers flex alot and the pads are too small. Upgrading will save you mone in the long run but it is expensive up front.

As for performance you can generate nearly the same amount of retardation with the original gear just not for long. There is stuff all time in it.

I hope for everyones sake the DBA4000 series is alot better than it was. I would check the price on some Project Mu rotors on import.

As some free advice (Worth every cent) a cheap data logger that shows you how many gees you pull under brakes (& laterally) is one of the best investments you can make. Try the new GTech stuff (fanatic?) or just an app for your phone.

Yeah the vibration is what caused me problems....

If I were you, i'd start with;

- Check rotors with verniers, if 30mm or over, keep them

- get a set of track pads in the fronts at least - Ferodo DS3000, EBC Yellow etc. Swap them in just before you drive to the track, then put the current ones back in when you get home

And see how that goes.

My car already had 17s, so the 324/330s weren't a problem.

Dont use a vernier. They dont clear the lip on the outside of the rotor & hence dont measure properly. Use a micrometer.

If you are doing sprints get a pad that works from cold. Eg a DS2500 rather than a 3000. Then you dont have to swap them all the time.

Edited July 4, 2011 by djr81

[BunsenBurna]

If I were you, i'd start with;

- Check rotors with verniers, if 30mm or over, keep them

- get a set of track pads in the fronts at least - Ferodo DS3000, EBC Yellow etc. Swap them in just before you drive to the track, then put the current ones back in when you get home

Front rotors were 31.86mm before the track day and they now need to be machined at the very least. That being the case, my mindset is to spend a little bit more and get new rotors for the front. I'm definitely going to switch to a better pad.

I just can't shake the feeling that the smartest thing to do would be to upgrade the wheels to 17 or 18" and go with a bigger rotor.

[Duncan]

Yep...the best thing to do is to change to 17x9, eg 33 GTR wheels. Plenty of reasonably size semi slicks, and decent sized brakes will fit under them. Then buy ksport/g4/d2 etc 330mm brakes to fit under them.

That will keep you in relatively cheap tyres and brakes up to a reasonable level of power mods