Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys only recently blew the standard turbo on my 34 gtt, i was going to just keep it off the road until its sent away for the build but i want to get it back on as i dont want all my rego going to waste plus its extremely sad seeing it sit there and not move...but anyway

Ive had no experience with upgrading into a smaller turbo class with the rb25s/neos etc...so was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction as to what would be a good choice as a straight bolt on to the original manifold/dump etc i want something with a little more punch than the standard turbo as i want to run a bit more boost for the time being so any help as to what would be ideal to throw on and make a little more power and not have to go through a drastic tune or at least be relatively driveable once i bolt it on.

Thanks. B

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367107-r34-gtt-turbo-upgrade-help/
Share on other sites

Drop your blown into a turbo place like Hypergear and get them to highflow it. That will get you 240-250rwkw with supporting mods and will bolt straight up to everything and appear standard for the cops.

+1.

Either shoot Stao (Hypergear) a PM or give him a call and he can help you. Very helpful and the turbos are excellent from my experience :thumbsup:

Ill have to get on to them and perhaps post it or something cause im in the middle of rural NSW with no performance shops anywhere in sight so we all have to do everything ourselves around here..good way to learn but yeah do you know anything about what price it would be to get it cleaned up and high flowed? the car made 235rwkw at 10psi and i had it running at 1bar after a while, stupid idea and probably why it blew but I knew what i was in for and didnt mind as i was going for the new build soon anyway but that seems like a quick fix and being the same turbo would obviously bolt immediately back on thanks for the help guys

but you'll need ALL the supporting mods if you go the highflow route...

grab a std turbo and bolt it on, otherwise start planning to spend a heap of cash...

Its currently running a big trust front mount, power fc /w hand controller, avcr, apexi power intake, Z32 AFM, 3 1/2inch jasma exhaust, big sard fuel pump, hks plugs, hks SSQV3 bov and soon to have spit fire coilpacks so its plenty to handle the high flowed set up

Edited by 34sharker

If there are no shops to tune though, what you doing to do there?

You also need injectors

And for the record there is no way you made 230rwkw on the factory turbo, its impossible. At 10psi, 190rwkw would be about right.

What state? You will need a tune, nistune. There is a search box up the top right, select 'this forum' and punch nistune into that.

Drop an nismo, tomei, bosch fuel pump in the car and run 14PSI with a nistune and you will actually run 230kw.

Don't just get a high flow and run the standard ECU, no point.

Could have been flywheel kw...it has injectors already sorry didn't put that down and yeah I haven't even seen dyno sheets for it I'm just going off what the seller had actually told me so I'm not trying to spin shit, all I know is it ate my mates 06 sti, has beaten ve ss's, supras etc but yeah I'll have to dyno it after the turbo gets back..this is all a learning experience as I've never worked on these engines before

What state? You will need a tune, nistune. There is a search box up the top right, select 'this forum' and punch nistune into that.

Drop an nismo, tomei, bosch fuel pump in the car and run 14PSI with a nistune and you will actually run 230kw.

Don't just get a high flow and run the standard ECU, no point.

I have a sard fuel pump and power fc tune already done mate

It sounds to me like the turbo you have blown is not standard. Never heard of anyone doing all those mods plus injectors and Z32 AFM for a standard turbo on 10psi??

Maybe it was a hiflow already? Post up some pics of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For something a little more serious, Davinci Resolve is about the best there is for free video editors. No expiration dates or watermarks, completely free.
    • Well, it's taken me until the last week of 2024 to actually do something on the Skyline but I consider it a good head start to 2025's efforts! I managed to justify (to myself anyway...) my purchase of the lift table. It made taking the rear subframe out a lot easier than it would have been without anyway! Everything is out and stripped down ready for a clean then powdercoating.  She's pretty grubby under there but pretty good condition for a 38 year old Japanese tin bucket. 12 years of zero street time have obviously helped that... I need to decide which of the factory suspension arms I will keep and replace so I only get what I'm keeping powdercoated.  Baby steps but it's a start!  
    • Turbo gods, some assistance and recommendations please I'm looking into a turbo kit for my 2.5 from MX5 Mania >>>>> https://mx5mania.com.au/products/copy-of-mx-5-nc-2-5-litre-engine-conversion-turbo-2005-2013 Power wise I would like about 200kw atw, and of course dose noises, apparently if you keep a stock 2.5 under around 200kwatw the engine and drivetrain will not hate life even when ragging on it a bit Max RPM on the 2.5 is around 6500rpm The turbo MX5 use is something around the disco potato size as  packaging room for the turbo is pretty limited, which will, I believe, give me my power goals I want and not have the turbo either under, or oversized, but the rear housing bit is confusing  It comes with either a 0.64 or 0.86 From my understanding, which so far is based off googling, so make of that what you will 0.64: spools faster = good Makes more EGT heat on boost = bad Less topend power than 0.86 = I'm only looking for 200 atw so that point may be mute????, I don't know, hence my questions  0.86: Spools a "little" slower = how much slower??? remembering 6500 is my max rpm Makes less EGT heat = good Makes a little more power up top = again, power goals is only around 200 Also, this is a street car, so there will not really be any long track sessions, in saying this I would want it so it was happy with at least 3 hot laps at Wakefield Park if the need arises  I already have a fancy pants triple pass radiator, and a oil cooler with thermostat will be getting installed as well Thanks for any information or recommendations you have 👍, and of course, the comments about me wasting money on drive in drive out modifications, or any other snide remarks about my manhood for owning a MX5 🤣    
    • Tape some wool onto the vent then take it for a drive I did this to my reverse cowl and was instantly unhappy, as anything over about 60kph would have the wool enter the engine bay, thus just adding underbonnet pressure and stooging my coolant stack, it did let alot of heat out when stationary though, which really didn't help once the car was moving, with the reverse cowl you could watch the coolant temps cheap up the faster you went on the hwy, I assume it would be alot worse doing track day speed With the vented bonnet (just after the radiator and about 1/3 up the bonnet) on my old R33 the wool on the leading edge sat at about a 45° angle as air poured out of it From looking where your vents are, and their size, I believe you should be fine at speed and air should be evacuated from the engine bay, I think it will be a night and day difference when stuck in traffic though for removing the trapped heat, and not sitting there cooking when parked up after driving around... #convection  Post wool tuft pics and data for science  This beastie is one nice and unique rig, enjoy
    • It is possible to do this stuff for "cheap". But you need to be able to get deals on all the bigger items, and it really helps if you're fully capable of doing your own work. As soon as you're paying retail for new parts, or buying "kits" because you can't fabricate necessary bits and pieces, and if you really need someone else to take the reins of doing the work because you don't have the space/time/skills/confidence to  rip deep into the car and put it back together in a working fashions.....then you pay. And these days, pay means a lot of money. You'd think things would get cheaper, but they don't. They just seem to keep getting more and more expensive.
×
×
  • Create New...