Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For sale is the engine, ecu and exhaust from my R34 GTR V spec.

Perfect package for your R34 GTR, bolt in, drive away.

The engine is still running in the car and available for inspection, comp test and or test drive etc.

The reason for the sale is an RB30/26 transplant.

All items for sale are in excellent working condition.

WHAT IS FOR SALE?

The complete engine from the inlet plenum cold side to the turbos, dumps and complete exhaust system hot side, ecu included.

Only thing not included is the front Diff but both front and rear diffs are also available at extra cost.

ENGINE

R34 gtr RB 26

Forged bottom end

N1 oil pump

HKS adjustable cam gears

Greddy clear cam cover

Gates racing timing belt

750cc Sards

JJR coils

Apexi super suction kit

Z32 AFM's

Apexi pod filters

Garrett 2860-7 turbo's

Custom polished Catch can and washer bottle

Tuned by Godzilla Motorsports to 298kw@ 17 psi

Engine travelled 18000 klms since rebuild.

Oil changed every 3000 klms

ECU

Apexi Power FC with hand controller

EXHAUST

CES competition version split ceramic coated dumps 2000 deg

Custom ceramic coated y-pipe is twin 3in finishing at 3.5in collector

High flow cat

3in to rear Fujitsubo polished stainless muffler with 5in outlet

Do the math, it is worth more than twice this amount.

Will seperate engine, exhaust, and ecu if required.

I am located in Brisbane Southside.

I am a Mature car enthusiast who has fastediously maintained this engine.

Lowballers dont waste my or your time

Priced for quick sale.

Ross 0418 416 921

post-45687-0-46024300-1307521521_thumb.jpgpost-45687-0-09388900-1307521489_thumb.jpgpost-45687-0-20608100-1307521504_thumb.jpgpost-45687-0-21130800-1307521469_thumb.jpgpost-45687-0-91430300-1307521438_thumb.jpgpost-45687-0-51793700-1307521412_thumb.jpgpost-45687-0-98670800-1307521548_thumb.jpg

Depends on what you want?

Turbos? AFM? Apexi suction kit? filters? Inlet manifold?

Just call me to discuss any details if you are interested.

hang on while i try and sell a kidney on ebay. how much for the engine without the exhaust or ecu??

Bit of a tire kick here, so feel free not to answer (it may be helpful for other more serious people) How hard would this be to put into a GT-T and retain the RWD configuration?

Are the bellhousings on each box (GT-T and GTR) the same, so it would just match up?

Would the sump clear the cross member?

Would it be a matter of plugging in the ECU and just turning the key, or is the GT-T harness completely different and the pins do completely different things?

There has been the odd 34 going for around $13k at the moment, if I managed to pick one up at this price, and the effort to put this set up into it wasn't monumental, I'd definitely do it.

Again, feel free not to answer, because at this point in time, I'm not a genuine buyer, I am genuinely curious, however.

mind asking whats the reason for sale and how long the engine been running since rebuild ? thanks.

As the post says Im installing a RIPS rb 30/26. It was rebuilt 18000 klms ago, 2.5 yrs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...