Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, I just got my construction card last night and I'm starting a well paying traineeship within the month. I'm excited because I'm going to be taking home a $hitload even as a trainee, and I'll be able to finally get the skyline I've wished for, for years :D

I'm going to get a 34 GT-T and I have some questions...

It is going to be my daily, so I want an all round package that is going to be reliable, handle well and look the goods. So my questions are as follows:

As far as suspension is concerned, how much better will the handling be with coil overs as opposed to king springs on the stockers? I know this is a stupid question, but I'd like to save as much money as I can.

What coil overs would you guys recommend that offer the best bang for the buck performance?

In regards to performance, what can I do to make the car relatively quick, yet still be reliable? I'm thinking FMIC and a tune, but I'm not sure of other supporting mods that it would need?

Is the stock GT-T's diff up to par? I'm not going to rape the car within an inch of its life, but I'd like to give it a bit of a workout every now and then.

If I get a loan for a car, do I have to have it in my name? The reason I ask is for insurance purposes, I'm sure insurance will be crazy if I get it in my name. If there's no other way around it then so be it, I'm just checkin.

Hicas - I want to get rid of it, I've heard horror stories. Is it illegal to get rid of hicas in qld? Are there any workshops in S/E qld that will install a lock bar for me?

I'm in S/E qld, and while I could do the work myself (except for the stuff on the forced induction side of things, I've never worked with turbo'd cars before), I don't have any tools here with me, and with such an expensive car, I'd like to get a decent work shop to do some of the bigger jobs. I saw an issue of HPI that had a GT-T in there from S/E qld and a workshop did a package deal for him, anyone know which workshop this is?

Basically if you guys can think of a guide to modding a 34 I'd appreciate it. I know this is premature, but I want to get everything sorted out, so I know how much I should borrow/save over the next few months.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367176-34-gt-t-order-of-mods/
Share on other sites

Also, are there any workshops in S/E qld that know their skylines and would put an LPG set up in it to make good power? I realise there will probably need to be a lot more stuff done to the car, like ECU, injectors, etc but I'm just curious. I know it has been done, as I've read up about it. Just curious if there's anyone here that would do it.

I have used search. Found lots of stuff.

Construction traineeship. A shitload may be an exaggeration, but to me it's a lot. As a trainee I'll be bringing home on average $1100-1200 after tax a week, and up to $1600. Lowest, shittest week possible will be $900 after tax. I think for someone living off centrelink it's a good deal, considering they're investing about 50k worth of training in me, and I'll be qualified in lots of areas once I'm done, and my pay will go up as soon as my tafe is finished :)

congrats mate and all the best with the training.

an r34 gtt is a great car, can be plenty powerful but a good daily; can handle well too if you do it right.

Definitely the search will get you all those answers as alot of people have asked the same questions before.

just one tip with suspension, unless your track racing, dont go overkill. As a daily driver you want it to be comfortable and not shake your spine out

high grip tyres and tight chassi will beat hard coilovers on the road

Congrats on the job man, (and choosing skyline lol)

As far as power mods go, its completely up to you and what you want from the car. I think a good starting point is the usual bolt on mods.

Full turbo back exhaust including hi flow cat, Some sort of boost control (your choice) High flow panel filter for the air box, fmic and an ecu upgrade. This sort of modification should see up to 200rwkw once its tuned, which is plenty good for a starting point. After this you can look at different turbo (or highflow standard) Bigger injectors, better flowing fuel pump and replace the afm, but of course it would need the ecu to be retuned with these additional mods.

Good luck with the car man!

congrats mate and all the best with the training.

an r34 gtt is a great car, can be plenty powerful but a good daily; can handle well too if you do it right.

Definitely the search will get you all those answers as alot of people have asked the same questions before.

just one tip with suspension, unless your track racing, dont go overkill. As a daily driver you want it to be comfortable and not shake your spine out

high grip tyres and tight chassi will beat hard coilovers on the road

Thanks mate, that's what I'm looking for. Suspension is cool but being young I still want to be able to save a fair bit of cash, dropping a few grand on coil overs would be cool, but I'd be in two minds about it. By tight chassis, what do you mean? How can I achieve that? Is it just a matter of a beefy engine brace or what? I drive a falcon now that has a 4wd ride height, so I'm sure I'll be impressed with the 34 handling (when I finally drive it haha).

Congrats on the job man, (and choosing skyline lol)

As far as power mods go, its completely up to you and what you want from the car. I think a good starting point is the usual bolt on mods.

Full turbo back exhaust including hi flow cat, Some sort of boost control (your choice) High flow panel filter for the air box, fmic and an ecu upgrade. This sort of modification should see up to 200rwkw once its tuned, which is plenty good for a starting point. After this you can look at different turbo (or highflow standard) Bigger injectors, better flowing fuel pump and replace the afm, but of course it would need the ecu to be retuned with these additional mods.

Good luck with the car man!

Thanks man, I'm heaps excited about the job. I wasn't going to do it at first because my brother offered it to me as a labourer, but I didn't want to leave uni if I had no option of a future career, but he pulled some strings and I've just gotta get some stuff together :D

RE boost control, I think I'd go with a power FC, but I have no clue on how to use it. A tuner would be able to tell me how to use one, hey? And if I want, can I have a pre set for really low boost/fuel economy, and at the flick of a button have it set for fun? For the first few months I'd say I'll be driving it like it should be driven :D but I'd like to have the option of conserving fuel if I could.

I really want to get out to some cruises and track days! Also want to learn to drift, are there any skid pans down here where I could learn?? I'm in Ipswich btw, I just moved here this year for uni.

The ECU is the nexus for all your power mods, do this first, do it once and do it right.

After that, think about what makes an engine and produce power, and go about changing things in areas in which your car is deficient.

Decent Tyres and brakes come before all of this though.

Congratulations and good luck :thumbsup:

The ECU is the nexus for all your power mods, do this first, do it once and do it right.

After that, think about what makes an engine and produce power, and go about changing things in areas in which your car is deficient.

Decent Tyres and brakes come before all of this though.

Congratulations and good luck :thumbsup:

i have to disgree there about doing it first. if you do it first then you really need to get it retuned after each mod. best off starting with the exhaust, cooler and airfilter. then up the boost and then after that get an ecu.

Thanks for the advice guys. It's months away still, but I thought I'd never be in a position to get one, haha. Anyone know if a bank will loan me money for something I can't legally drive yet? The first thing I have to do is get into a new rental with a garage. I've got it good at the moment, $90 a week including power, water, internet and yard maintenance, but I have to share a carport with the other person that lives here and drives.

If I can, I might try to buy a car with some stuff already done to it. I like the idea of modding a car myself, to make it my own, but if I'd be saving a substantial amount I might go that route.

hey man, if you have some time to wait, why not import your own gtt from japan - that way you can pick one with a good auction rating and completely stock which is always the best way to go.

all the best, keep posted if you buy one or import one

How much would I be looking at mate? Reckon I'd be able to get one with some stff already on it?

I'm gunna go for a personal loan so I guess the bank won't give a crap what I'm doing to it.

I'd love one with a gtr bonnet and front bar on it (I know that's a stupid thing to say because it's just styling, but if I could save the expense of doing it myself I'd be happy).

Is there a sticky anywhere about importing cars? Obviously I'd go through an importer, but I've no idea how much it would cost with a finders fee, shipping and compliance on top. Good thinking mate, if I could be the first owner in aus that would be sweet!

hey man, if you have some time to wait, why not import your own gtt from japan - that way you can pick one with a good auction rating and completely stock which is always the best way to go.

all the best, keep posted if you buy one or import one

Buying completely stock is a bad idea if you want to modify your car heaps...

If I was to buy another one (assuming I didn't have all the fruit for a transplant) I would definitely buy a highly modded car.

The price difference over stock is minimal and you can sell whatever bits you want to change

How much would I be looking at mate? Reckon I'd be able to get one with some stff already on it?

I'm gunna go for a personal loan so I guess the bank won't give a crap what I'm doing to it.

I'd love one with a gtr bonnet and front bar on it (I know that's a stupid thing to say because it's just styling, but if I could save the expense of doing it myself I'd be happy).

Is there a sticky anywhere about importing cars? Obviously I'd go through an importer, but I've no idea how much it would cost with a finders fee, shipping and compliance on top. Good thinking mate, if I could be the first owner in aus that would be sweet!

In a way i agree with joeyjoejoe who says to buy one with basic mods already done as it saves some coin. Im simply talking as someone who likes stockers as you know that their longevity has probably not been compromised - then again, there is no real way to know.

Importing is easy if you can wait, ive imported 2 car now: an r33 gts in 2002 and an r34 gtr in ?? couple of years ago.

Find someone who seems reliable and trustworthy, there are some importers on here who have good feedback.

Also, check those unique auto magazines as just yesterday in the doctors office i saw a black r34 gtt for 19k just imported in excellent condition.

all the best with the search. if u find one privately, make sure u get a full mechanical inspection from a 'knowing' mechanic

In a way i agree with joeyjoejoe who says to buy one with basic mods already done as it saves some coin. Im simply talking as someone who likes stockers as you know that their longevity has probably not been compromised - then again, there is no real way to know.

Importing is easy if you can wait, ive imported 2 car now: an r33 gts in 2002 and an r34 gtr in ?? couple of years ago.

Find someone who seems reliable and trustworthy, there are some importers on here who have good feedback.

Also, check those unique auto magazines as just yesterday in the doctors office i saw a black r34 gtt for 19k just imported in excellent condition.

all the best with the search. if u find one privately, make sure u get a full mechanical inspection from a 'knowing' mechanic

Thanks mate, was your experience with importing pleasant? I'm assuming it was, otherwise you wouldn't have done it a second time lol. I'd LOVE a black one :D

Regarding the mechanical inspection, if I was importing one, are the auctioneers or whoever writes up the gradings qualified mechanics?

I got all my stuff signed by a JP and I'm waiting to get my card in the mail, then I can start my traineeship :D long 12 hour days, but for the money, the qualifications and everything else I'm sure I'll enjoy it :D

Thanks mate, was your experience with importing pleasant? I'm assuming it was, otherwise you wouldn't have done it a second time lol. I'd LOVE a black one :D

Regarding the mechanical inspection, if I was importing one, are the auctioneers or whoever writes up the gradings qualified mechanics?

I got all my stuff signed by a JP and I'm waiting to get my card in the mail, then I can start my traineeship :D long 12 hour days, but for the money, the qualifications and everything else I'm sure I'll enjoy it :D

u know what? i have no idea about the people who grade the cars, i think they go by the paint, straight bodywork, clean engine bay and interior.

my first car was an r33 gts-4 with a grade 4 (this was back in 02) went with holford motors and it was very plesant but the wait was grrrrrrr. lolz

the second one, as was a bit more money, i had someone go to japan and pick one for me so was no nail-biting

all the best with ur training! nothing is more respectable than hard work as the rewards are well earned.

Joey - Construction mate. At the moment it's road construction, so I'll be trained in various areas.

Johnny, thanks mate, I'm looking forward to it :) Uni isn't really working out for me, especially when I'm not in my desired course.

Can't wait to get a 'line haha.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
    • yess of course im not using 2nd hand parts from my spare engine, but the place where i live is hard to find parts for the RB20DET ,but for the RB20E is everywhere including new ones and a lot cheaper ,because for the RB20DET you have to order it overseas to get one and it cost a lot of money 3x the price to be exact. so i ask this topic because if i can use the new ones but for RB20E is it compatible or not. if not im screwed haha, not totally screwed but i have to save a lot of money first before i can begin repairing my engine, thanks for the information before.
    • Unless my sensor just died, was only a couple months old, I strongly believe it didn't. How can I test it? I never mentioned it being 20:1+?
    • Well, you wouldn't use 2nd hand bearings out of another engine anyway....so just buying the proper bearings is obviously what you're going to do. The crankshaft would be common. The conrods might be common. There is essentially nothing else you would be able to use.
×
×
  • Create New...