Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

finally got around to doing mine.

Haven't seen a black 34 do it yet, so i took my chances lol. went really well, though i wish i had an aftermarket lip that I could've put on and then put this garage seal one on. looks kind of plain.

Looks great! Which material did you end up using, the softer foamy stuff or the hard rubbery one? Where'd you get it from? Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

Looks great! Which material did you end up using, the softer foamy stuff or the hard rubbery one? Where'd you get it from? Cheers

thanks! i got the softer one (i think) from ebay.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281090943377?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

came in pretty quick too.

  • 6 months later...

I spent the afternoon installing Rhino Lip ($34 off ebay) on my R34, it turned out alright. I quite like the material, it seems tough enough but still compliant so you can get it to follow the shape of the front bar.

11905068066_c6f0822022_z.jpg

11904627034_2f102336d2_z.jpg

Apologies for the crappy photos.

Edited by V28VX37
  • 11 months later...
  • 10 months later...

Going good. I attached using screws with a larger washer as it holds it down well.

So far the bottom rubber lip has been abused and well outlasted any frp, plastic or carbon

If it scrapes it folds back gets a bit of dirt on it and it wipes away as if new. Best $30 ever

  • Like 1

10 months strong?

+1 going great. I scuff it every now and then and it just bounces back. Seems to hold its shape really well.

The way I use the car this is a much better solution than a hard lip.

Obviously you wouldn't get as much if any air flow benefits from a soft lip, but then again my guess is that a proper smooth undertray would do much more than any lip could...

Going good. I attached using screws with a larger washer as it holds it down well.

So far the bottom rubber lip has been abused and well outlasted any frp, plastic or carbon

If it scrapes it folds back gets a bit of dirt on it and it wipes away as if new. Best $30 ever

Did you use the rhino lip as well?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
×
×
  • Create New...