Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

heres a big update

engine and gearbox is in, all mounts made by me, ive made up a set of custom dump pipes which have come up absolutely mint, and just get around the skyline steering arm!!!

got a 5 puck carbonic button clutch with ultralight flywheel, hd pressure plate

the speedo drive from the skyline was a perfect match to the r154 gearbox AWESOME!

the soarer throttle cable was nearlly identical to the skyline one apart from length, so with minor modification it fit AWESOME!

Lots of stuff matches up between nissan and toyota which is making the conversion very easy.

not long now and itll all be running.

100_1156.jpg

100_1158.jpg

100_1163.jpg

100_1174.jpg

100_1177.jpg

100_1178.jpg

100_1182-1.jpg

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

yeah it looks like its meant to be there!

update:

all fluids filled.

sway bar bushes replaced with nolathane and whiteline items.

clutch fluid line made up, fitted and system bled.

batter clamp made and fitted.

power steering lines made and fitted.

intercooler brackets made and fitted.

also stripped interior.

fitted screws in the dash where there were that many missing i dont know how anything was staying in place... well things sort of werent!!

fitted mint condition front seats from a good wreck

fitted as new carpet from the same good wreck.

modified gear shifter and fitted.

karchered and disinfected rear seats.

car is ready for wiring.... anyone in newcastle interested in doing this?! lol

  • 4 weeks later...

ok so took the car for its first drive the other day.

its a bit of a weapon..

ive been round the block 3 times and i cant get traction until 4th gear!!!!!!!!!!1

thats with 90% tread tyres.

soon as it hits boost in 1st 2nd and 3rd it just frys them

definately going to need some good semi slicks

very very happy with the car!!!

I would kill for a 1j 32, I'm wanting to convert mine to a 1j later on when it inevitably gets yellowed and becomes a track/drift car. How much roughly would this set one back if not needing to get it engineered/registered.

Edited by are bee's
  • 1 month later...

i made my dump pipes, iam a mechanic at an exhaust shop

I wish my stock turbo 1J would do that...might have something to do with my car weighing 1800kgs lol.

Anyhoo who did your dump pipe? I really like it

ive spent about 7 grand on the conversion but that includes coilovers etc.

I would kill for a 1j 32, I'm wanting to convert mine to a 1j later on when it inevitably gets yellowed and becomes a track/drift car. How much roughly would this set one back if not needing to get it engineered/registered.

ok ive now resprayed the car

got the conversion engineered

as of today car is now registered and it is an absolute mental and fun car to drive!

very happy with it

the exhaust is twin 2.5 inch from the turbos the whole way to the back of the car. (2.5inch off each turbo) all it has are one straight through resonator on each pipe at the rear.

sounds like a rotor on full noise!

ill see what i can do about a vid

Conflicting emotions........ Have always been a toyota man owned a Gt4 celica my old man has a tt soarer which ive had alot of fun in too but now im a nissan owner lol! Nice work mate the 1jz is 1 of the best donks ever made! If there was as much aftermarket support for the yotas as the nissans i probably never woulda jumped on the nissan boat. Nice build though buddy bet shes a screamer in the lil 32 the old boys snoarer pops along well with few lil tweaks and the 32 probably weighs as much as the 2 doors of the soarer hahaha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their reliability is proven, performance can be predictable, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
    • Hi all! Looking to relocate the battery to the trunk of an R34 GTT. I want to do it using as many stock GTR components as I can (including the harness protectors from the 34 GTR that run underneath along the chassis to the engine bay). So far I’ve purchased the battery tray from a 33 GTR, as the captive weld nuts are already there just asking to be used. There is also the slight issue of now having to relocate the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU, which in GTT’s sits right above where the battery will then sit on the tray. Has anyone already achieved this, and if you have any pics that you wouldn’t mind sharing? It would be great to see how others have done it and where you put them, as there are countless holes in the parcel shelf panel to potentially use. Just trying to get some ideas bounced around, and to help uncover any potential problems I may encounter by  my choice of location. TIA for any help!
×
×
  • Create New...