Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 136
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

-10s are the same as GT-RS's - 450rwkw+

If 2530's will make 400-420rwkw, and the GT-RS are bigger again... Then pretty easy to set expectation when there are a few RS results making some BIG numbers in the dyno threads.

4" CAT will be a restriction on a turbo setup that large. Have a look @ any CAT, it can't NOT be a restriction and hence if you wish to run one you'll need a larger one for good performance.

Realistically though, for best performance with those turbos, only option is a 4" straight pipe - no CAT.

Remember RS's are internally gated so you need a lot of flow.

Realistically RS's are not really a great turbo anyway (hoping to see Piggaz comparo soon of -10s vs -5s).. That will hold a very interesting story. Same as Gav from WA, he picked up something like 1200rpm extra response doing the same step back in turbo size... Such a boost in the mid range is just insane for a street car

The engine is fairly responsive considering its not a stroker due to being fully race balanced and light flywheel.

This is with 700cc injectors maxed out. Engine is built for 30 psi. If e85 becomes available Should i fit bigger injectors , 4 inch exhaust and a tune for e85? It has a power fc djetro. What sort of power should i expect?

Edited by Griffin

come on, you can't say coming on 20psi @ 5000rpm is responsive! :spank:

700cc injectors are already too small for -10s... You need ~1000cc to flow the power they are capable of on PUMP.

Add in E85 - you need ID2000 (2000cc), and a good fuel system to back it up.

I mean you won't have 20psi before 5000rpm with -10s on a 2.6ltr

That can't really be put in the same sentence as responsive (Wait till Piggaz see's this thread lol)

At a minimum you'll need injectors, exhaust.

I'd also say to make the most you'll need super cams, heaps of head-work, bigger valves - basic terms - the works, and then some.

You'd be aiming for at least 25psi as a starting point as well. Depends on if the motor will take that however with timing in it. Totally depends on how it was built. Might find its not even possible.

All of this assumes you have a expensive bottom end too. Just your normal standard rebuild really ain't going to take that, especially the RPM part. You would need to spin to at least 8500-9000 to get use outta the power range on the 2.6

Oh god no. RS's in a 2.6L would have to be the worst low mount setup out there. They are terrible on a (my) 2.8. Sure you might make a nice big fat number starting with a 4 but you are going to be belted by a well balanced car with little baby -7's or -9's.

On the pommie forum they seem to love the '2.8 + RS' setup. It is not the setup to have. On a dirty thirty they are not bad... But they are not great either. Once again te next size down in turbo size would make for a much quicker car. Yes you might loose a bee's dick in top end (20 HP) but the midrange will more than make up for it.

It's up to you but area under the curve wins!

Oh god no. RS's in a 2.6L would have to be the worst low mount setup out there. They are terrible on a (my) 2.8. Sure you might make a nice big fat number starting with a 4 but you are going to be belted by a well balanced car with little baby -7's or -9's.

On the pommie forum they seem to love the '2.8 + RS' setup. It is not the setup to have. On a dirty thirty they are not bad... But they are not great either. Once again te next size down in turbo size would make for a much quicker car. Yes you might loose a bee's dick in top end (20 HP) but the midrange will more than make up for it.

It's up to you but area under the curve wins!

Pretty much spot on, I would not put them on a 2.6 litre, 2.8 or 3.0 is a different story that's probably for another thread though.

Piggaz mate, have your Midori dumps shown up yet ?

What's the goss ?

Pretty much spot on, I would not put them on a 2.6 litre, 2.8 or 3.0 is a different story that's probably for another thread though.

Piggaz mate, have your Midori dumps shown up yet ?

What's the goss ?

Dumps are here, 5's are in their boxes in my room. Just waiting on my Nismo cooler to turn up. Also should have the crank timing trigger (will explain later) to stop this timing floating around issue!

Anyway, back on topic. Get a cat that is 4 inch in and out with the biggest body you can find!

This thread delivers, full race balance style.

As someone who's had RS's on an 87mm 3L they STILL sucked compared to 5's.

They weren't as bad on a 3L as everyone makes out they were but it's not even fair once the 5's are fitted to the same engine.

The graph for this will look like a cliff, nothing nothing nothing nothing then a sharp rise on the right hand side.

It will be great if you can always keep the rpm up, but for example if you're in 3rd at say 60kmh and go full throttle it's going to be painfully slow to get any meaningful power out of it and if it's a street car you may think that's super quick but relatively speaking compared to others it will get left for dead.

Good luck with it however it ends up

might be interesting to see what .48 housings would do to -10's

Wont fix it properly but might be a band aid for some

Assuming you mean rear... That'll just make them even more surge prone pushing more air around earlier >_<

Its like people that put a .63 rear on a 700hp GT35 - madmans business.

If you pulling the turbos off to swap housings, you might as well just put on better turbos overall.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can try capping the power steering idle up valve at both ends if it's old. The valve and the intake manifold. That is something that is known to fail in Toyotas with age and it will suck power steering fluid into the intake and burn it in the engine which can cause issues. Then bleed it again with engine off first. Do like 30+ lock to lock turns with the front wheels off the ground.
    • Hi Brent, I am wondering if you ever worked this out? I have upgraded this unit to a newer one and everything works bar the reverse camera, so i really want to know what plugs are what so I can patch the camera through. many thanks in advance Mike
    • Once you have to get up in the morning and be useful, you suddenly value sleep it turns out :p
    • Update:   smoke test all pipes no issues cleaned reservoir   fluid put in ( dexron 3 atf)   steering turn side to side and could hearing  gurgling from steering rack which I assumed was air lock, opened one of the steering rack connections and could see loads of air getting pushed out( not sure if you meant to do that / whether it will re introduce air into system)   anyways, loads of side to side sound was gone. Turned car on, pump was slightly ( barely) wining so turned side to side few more turns and fluid level when car on was almost none in resorvoir which I guess is normal if car is one. Turned car of and fluid was gushing out. Almost 200-300cc was pushed out. Repeated engine off side to side followed  by engine on and same result       going mad now. It seems system is either sucking air in whilst on or there is tons of air which I am not giving it enough time to bleed. Thoughts?   would it work like brake caliper if I open steering rack copper pipes and let gravity pull all air out?   or maybe have a restriction somewhere? What is the red circled item, could that be blocked? It i
    • Yeah, the plan is to just put some black rubber vacuum line caps over them to "hide" them a bit I don't want to trim them in cause I need to put the OEM box back on at some stage
×
×
  • Create New...