Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.

I'm after a more clean look for my brake calipers (not having issues with wheel fitment or anything like that) so I want to shave the Nissan logo off the side. Wouldn't go any further than that, I just want the flat face. Any suggestions as to how I could do that myself or would I have to take it to an engineer and get them to mill it off? Had thought of using a flapper disk but will that go through the metal?

Cheers,

Martin.

Hey all.

I'm after a more clean look for my brake calipers (not having issues with wheel fitment or anything like that) so I want to shave the Nissan logo off the side. Wouldn't go any further than that, I just want the flat face. Any suggestions as to how I could do that myself or would I have to take it to an engineer and get them to mill it off? Had thought of using a flapper disk but will that go through the metal?

Cheers,

Martin.

Milling will definitely acheive what you're after, and you'll end up with a flat surface afterwards; something that will be very hard to get with a flap disc.

Also think about a belt linisher; would be nice to smooth out your machining marks after milling, but would easily do the job from start to finish if you've got a steady hand. Use a coarse grit belt to start, then finish with a 3M belt to smooth off for painting.

Thanks for the replies.

Yeh I figured milling is probably the best way to go about it. But I'm not sure who near me would do it or how much it would cost.

Problem with a belt linisher is... I do not have one lol. What about a hand held belt sander, do the same job? Would that do a better job than a flapper? A file would do the job but that's a hell of a lot of work and probably wouldn't get a nice finish.

Edited by Hanaldo

4" grinder did mine and then wet and dry (but i never got to the wet and dry) millings a waste of time and money,don't take any more than the letters off

Yeh that's all I want.

Thanks for the reply mate, that's what I was looking for :D

It'd be interesting to see the result of your work.  

Post some pics when you're done with this "mod" as I'm still not sure whether calipers look better with or without logo. Are you gonna paint/coat them afterwards?

It'd be interesting to see the result of your work.

Post some pics when you're done with this "mod" as I'm still not sure whether calipers look better with or without logo. Are you gonna paint/coat them afterwards?

Yeh will do mate.

I'll definitely paint them. Not sure what colour yet though. Currently they are very dark blue to suit the GT logo. But I just got new bronze wheels and I want to get some blue wheel nuts. Haven't found any the same shade of blue, so I'm not sure if I should repaint them the blue they are now or a similar blue to the nuts. Decisions...

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, so pics as promised...

I decided to use a 120 grit flapper disc on a 400w power drill instead of the angle grinder, as angle grinders and dye grinders are a bit too aggressive and end to take large bites out, making it difficult to get a nice finish. The flapper disc worked like a charm, albeit taking about 20 minutes of solid grinding to do each caliper. When the letters were gone I just hit the calipers with some 400 grit sandpapers to smooth them out, and the paint came out as you can see in the photo.

This is just after I started, I remembered to take a picture before I took anything more than paint off:

IMG_0827.jpg

And this is the finished product:

IMG_0831.jpg

This is the exact look I was going for so I'm very happy with it.

VHT mate. I actually repainted them with the exact same paint I had before, the finish doesn't change much. Obviously it loses a bit of shine, but if you do it right then it lasts.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starting with issues 1 - 5, we have already run into a problem...!  Issue #4 contained 2x front brake calipers, instead of 1 caliper and 1x steering knuckle. Will have to call DeAgostini on Monday to sort it out. Anyway here's some photos.  Issue #1 is the front bumper, headlights and number plate. Issue #2 is the front wheel (with "We produced with spartan air." text on the centre cap!) and tyre, the front lip spoiler and cylinder head cover with ignition coils under the centre cover... which will never be seen again. Issue #3 is the bonnet and cylinder head. Issue #4 is the front strut, brake disc (with laser etched metal discs) and brake caliper. I stopped here because of the issue with the missing steering knuckle.  Next update will be #5 - #10 in a few weeks.
    • DeAgostini is one of a few companies that release quite large (the largest commonly available size actually) 1/8 scale models in a series of weekly issues over 100 - 110 instalments.  They release different models for different markets and DeAgostini Japan have release the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo last month. I've made two of these 1/8 scale sized cars (one an R35 GT-R from 2012 - 2014, the other I'm just about halfway through, a BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the 2Fast 2Furious movie) so when this R32 was announced there was no way I could ignore it as it's my favourite out of all Nissans.  Each issue costs around $20 so it costs about $2.2K when completed. I suppose it is very expensive for what it is, but the quality and details are really very good, and there are many "gimmicks" like fully functioning exterior and interior lights operated with a remote control, working steering, all doors/bonnet/boot/fuel lid open and close, the side mirrors fold in and it even has a speaker for the engine revving sounds when you turn the lights on.  Each issue comes with a magazine that tells the story of the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo from the first design stages of the BNR32 to Group A homologation and the various racing version that were run in the Japanese Group A and JGTC, and Australian Group A.  So I plan to update the build in this thread 5 issues at a time.  https://deagostini.jp/r32/?srsltid=AfmBOooKjxDc4EUK2rmXqMBPgyHfFJ24s4oEPJBNpnF-lFlsRoW0PE6P
    • As per title.. has anyone used so far? Keen to hear results, comparisons. In the market for a new mani for my new turbo. Any issues cracking?
    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
×
×
  • Create New...