Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I noticed last year that my external gate was making a shuttering noise while going into boost. Sometimes at full boost it would make the noise. It almost sound like the valve was moving up and down really fast while still controlling boost?? There is a adjustment on top of the gate that looks like it controls preloud. Im sure adjusting that would fix the issue but then again im not certain. can anyone shed light

mods are

-rb25 with a built bottom end

-wiseco pistons 0.040 over

-eagle rods

-gt35 ebay turbo (57 or 59mm)

-stec manifold

-single 50mm wastegate with vband

-3 inch dp exhaust.

250398_226872794005886_100000495017986_980831_1948875_n.jpg

251054_226873084005857_100000495017986_980836_1404243_n.jpg

246784_226873217339177_100000495017986_980837_5548474_n.jpg

247457_228911273802038_100000495017986_998680_962960_n.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367806-external-wastegate-explained/
Share on other sites

Is the gate a fried rice special too?

What brand is it?

The gate is a rice patty special. I went ahead and added tension on the spring. Guess it was opening to early.

Its the barney brand(purple dinasour)

sounds like you need yourself a non rice special wastegate

So what would you say if I had a name brand gate? Worthless remarks make these forums tasteless......A simple suggestion would work. Im not sure about you guys but I help support the chinese....haayyeeeee ahhhh!!

You probably wouldnt be asking the question if you had a real gate

Your right Zebra....If I had a name brand gate it would be pre adjusted right?? I just wanna fit in guys. I promise to sell this working wastegate and purchase a $550 usd gate so I will be accepted....I promise.

This thread is now full of useless comments. Just delete it please.

Edited by meet07

The point everyone is trying to make is that Chinese knockoff gates aren't the best quality and while sometimes the quality of the knockoff stuff doesn't matter, when it comes to wastegates it does. The operating conditions are extreme to say the least and often the materials used in the manufacture of the diaphragms etc is not up to the task.

What about when it shits itself and sticks shut, pumps 40psi into your engine and grenades it, are you still going to defend the special fried rice?

The point everyone is trying to make is that Chinese knockoff gates aren't the best quality and while sometimes the quality of the knockoff stuff doesn't matter, when it comes to wastegates it does. The operating conditions are extreme to say the least and often the materials used in the manufacture of the diaphragms etc is not up to the task.

What about when it shits itself and sticks shut, pumps 40psi into your engine and grenades it, are you still going to defend the special fried rice?

hence why they are cheap poorly made and poor quality

It always surprises me when people spend good money on an engine, only to install a very cheap critical item that can completely destroy it.

Would you buy the best bungee harness, best bungee rope, and then buy the cheapest chinese fittings to connect the rope to your harness that you could find on ebay, then go bungee jumping, with lots of faith?

I certainly wouldn't.

Then they blame SAU for tasteless comments and say its a bad place to be.

Edited by The Mafia

It always surprises me when people spend good money on an engine, only to install a very cheap critical item that can completely destroy it.

Would you buy the best bungee harness, best bungee rope, and then buy the cheapest chinese fittings to connect the rope to your harness that you could find on ebay, then go bungee jumping, with lots of faith?

I certainly wouldn't.

Then they blame SAU for tasteless comments and say its a bad place to be.

Or would you spend 10k on a hooker, get a penthouse suite, the best malt whisky, then buy the cheapest prophylactic you could find

The point everyone is trying to make is that Chinese knockoff gates aren't the best quality and while sometimes the quality of the knockoff stuff doesn't matter, when it comes to wastegates it does. The operating conditions are extreme to say the least and often the materials used in the manufacture of the diaphragms etc is not up to the task.

What about when it shits itself and sticks shut, pumps 40psi into your engine and grenades it, are you still going to defend the special fried rice?

And all im trying to say is that not every part sold on ebay is junk. Ive already torn the gate apart and looked over everything. The diapram is thick and durable and the material used to put the gate together is well constructed. I mean really guys....how hard is it to make a gate. You think people manufature stuff and sell it on ebay b/c its gonna blow everyones engine up......Im certain that if my gate wanted to build 40psi I would definetly feel it before it happens. The diapram would almost have to be gone in order for this to happen.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.efisolutions.com.au/coolant-temperature-sensor-bosch-180sx-s14-s15-r33?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwzMi_BhACEiwAX4YZUHsCQhbiDT_NC3q5wD9jrzH6Dts9eGSr19NXSDw7x9WVm1sH7G3S4hoCwaUQAvD_BwE this is the one i replaced today
    • I have replaced the larger coolant temp sensor, i do see a smaller one next to it (looks to be just 1 pin) but i assume that is just for the dash? or should i replace that aswell?
    • Check coolant temp sensor ~ symptoms fit the hard hot start/cold start OK scenario --- if sensor goes open circuit, ECU thinks engine is cold and enriches mixture ....works when engine cold, but floods them with rich mixture when hot (Hyundi MAP engines are a bit infamous for this)...
    • OK, starter changed for a spare without much trouble. Neil had kindly left space to get to the top starter motor bolt from above with a long spanner which makes the whole deal much easier, and everything else was neat and easy to get at from underneath. Once the starter was changed everything was good, unplugged the CAS and turned the motor on the starter to make sure everything was free and happy. Onto properly priming the oil and first start. I'd picked up one of these oil prime kit from Boost doc a while back and this was my first time using it.  https://boostdoc.com.au/products/engine-oil-prime-kit?_pos=1&_sid=28c628a65&_ss=r While I'd organised all the fittings to hook it up to my GTR (sump plug to -6 feed and -4 T to tap it in and retain the oil pressure gauge, neither suited on this car as the oil pressure needs to T into 1/8 NPT not -4 and the Aeropro sump has some massive drainplug not that factory whatever it is. So, waiting for a couple of fittings, then I'll prime it and do first start, hopefully next weekend. Other than that going well, there is very little stopping a final alignment, tune then shakedown day
    • Also to mention, i just tested the CAS, seems to be working fine, can hear the pulses inbetween 0 and 180 degrees, another mention aswell, when i let the car sit for about a hour today, i went to start it and it almost fired on first crank, then just completely struggled. Could it possibly be blocked injectors?, maybe allowing a little bit of fuel to seep past allowing it it almost start first crank?
×
×
  • Create New...