R32 Gtr Oil In Radiator Vice Versa

[oosty85]

Hey all, what would be the obvious issue to have coolant and engine oils mixing in an r32 gtr? There is definately engine oil in the radiator I know so far. Head gasket, crack in head? Is there a way of telling which is more likely (such as, only one way mixing oil in radiator OR coolant in engine oil).. or is there another problem i havent thought of..

Any suggestions appreciated and also, what COULD be the worst case scenario and how much is the most i'd be looking at to replace this part?

THANKS HEAPS, Josh.

[SargeRX8]

Head gasket is most likely. The gasket will crack around the cylinder causing water to seep from the water gallery into the block and vica vera, oil into the coolant.

Worst scenario is a cracked block or head which will incur a healthy bill.

A head gasket will set you back about $400 for the gasket(if you go metal) and you will need a new stud set probably about $200 and then the labor.

Probably going to have to do something about the water and oil in the block and head. I don't know whats involved in cleaning that shit out but water won't wash out oil... And I don't know how healthy it is to have coolant chemicals in the oil.

[djr81]

There is also an oil cooler/warmer where the oil filter is that has been known to cause similar problems. Been a few threads on it so have a search.

Edited June 15, 2011 by djr81

[oosty85]

thanks guys, yeah the radiator was steaming and nothing in it but oily sludge when opened up the other day. so obviously the coolant is escaping but nothing looks to be around the manifold outside the engine..

Wil try another google search though.. . Hopefully a gasket, but seeing as it over heated and was empty on coolant, i'm tipping it's cracked the head aswell. if it wasn't already. Cheers

[mr 32]

built engine or stock?

how much oil is left in the sump?

[JonnoHR31]

head gasket is most likely, followed by busted oil cooler (if standard) then cracked head/block/intake

[oosty85]

ahhh spewin.... not sure of engine oil amount left in engine.. havent dumped the sump yet or had a chance to check the dipstick properly. A mate that works at an import parts specialist reckons may aswel get a whole 2.6tt engine for $2500 through him is the best option rather than rebuild and risk having further issues down the track.

[N1GTR]

Hopefully you didn't just buy it and find this problem

[oosty85]

nah mate haha thankfully not.. 2nd hand GTR heads worth about $1000- $1500 roughly or can you get lucky and find them cheaper? You'd have to just pull it apart and take it step by step a guess. Is it gonna be obvious if the block is the issue aswell? It would be the worst if I replaced the head and gaskets, put it back together and it still has issues!

[SargeRX8]

When you pull it apart to do the headgasket, you can leave the block in the car and do your own inspection for hair line cracks, scored bores, etc. You can take the head to any head specialist and just get them to clean it up, polish it and check your valves, springs etc(I really don't know what is involved).

Or you can do a comp test and a leak down test. Comp test will tell you if your gasket is gone and between which cylinders while the leak down test can tell you if you do in face have a damaged head. I don't know if its good grounds to test for cracks n shit but the general rule on the leak down is listen to for air leaks. If you hear air leaking in the head and nothing from intake or exhaust ends, there might be a crack in your head leaking air into the valve covers. Worst case is a rebuild but in that case I would get another healthy motor. 2.5g for an rb26dett is quite a steal in comparison to a 6k rebuild WHICH, as you said, does incur its risks. No one can build a Nissan like Nissan. Just look at the luck Stao had with this rb25 rebuild. The pin thing which holds the piston to the rod rattled loose and left grooves in his cylinder about 4mm deep. Scary stuff these rebuilds.

Even though Ive never done it, but if I had to I would seriously consider rebuilding the motor my self. Prep work done somewhere else but the assembly I believe is something that with time and patience is something I could do.

Short story even shorter, do a comp test. If you get shit readings between only two cylinders, you know there is a break in the headgasket. If they all read fine, chances are the cylinder is fine and probably not cracked and the issue *could* be narrowed down to the head.

[oosty85]

Thanks for all the advice man. OK so, Ive never dealt with a compression test before but is this done by giving the cylinder head to a specialist or do they need the whole car?? Because obviously the car isnt going anywhere. So hopefully your answer is that they only need the head once I remove it . So even if I was to fix this current motor, it would be around $2000 for a possible new head and or block, plus radiator if I did all the labour myself and got it tested somewhere too? It's not major money by the sounds of it.

I just can't see the point of buying a new motor (no matter how cheap it is) because then you'd be tempted to fix the old one anyway. Waste of money having a broken spare sitting in the shed!

Thanks again mate!

[djr81]

Thanks for all the advice man. OK so, Ive never dealt with a compression test before but is this done by giving the cylinder head to a specialist or do they need the whole car?? Because obviously the car isnt going anywhere. So hopefully your answer is that they only need the head once I remove it . So even if I was to fix this current motor, it would be around $2000 for a possible new head and or block, plus radiator if I did all the labour myself and got it tested somewhere too? It's not major money by the sounds of it.

I just can't see the point of buying a new motor (no matter how cheap it is) because then you'd be tempted to fix the old one anyway. Waste of money having a broken spare sitting in the shed!

Thanks again mate!

Just slow down.

A compression test is done with the engine in the car & intact. Pull the plugs attach your gauge & crank the motor. Simple.

Dont get carried away with thinking it is a cracked this or whatever. Chances are it is a stuffed head gasket or as I said earlier a gasket or a corrosion issue in the water/oil heat exchanger just behind the oil filter. Neither of these two things means it is a stuffed head. Infact unless you have driven the thing dry the head is probably fine as is the block.

Take it to someone who knows what they are doing & let them diagnose the problem.

[SargeRX8]

I just read your motor overheated. The engine *could* even be warped but this is very worst case.

[rasored]

you do not need to replace the head studs NISSAN SPECIALIST INFO. , your choice really , in standard form these engines are bullets , 7,500rpm all day long , so just to throw away is daft ! .

any garage or mechanic can do a compression test as long as the head is on the engine and you can turn it over with the starter motor . If the head is not warped the compression test will tell you which piston/pistons are mixing your water and oil ( i drove a peugeot 305 to the south of France and back to the uk with oil and water mixing , i changed oil 2 times on the way down and 1 time on the return - flushing the radiator at the same time - over 1,200 miles ) if all pistons have a bad pressure reading , under 100 on the compression tester then things maybe more serious .

Any Garage or mechanic can change a head gasket if he has a brain and this service manual file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Ted%20F%20McArthur/Desktop/Nissan%20R34%20Skyline%20Service%20Manual%20Supplement.htm

all torque settings and cambelt diagrams are there to follow ..

you don`t need a metal gasket if you keep boost under 12psi and bhp under 400 , but it is a good idea for the future and any upgrade plans .