Jump to content
SAU Community

Solid Mounting Rear Subframe Confusion & Diff Friction Plate Question

OLLIE_NZ
 Share

Recommended Posts

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

If your machining them and have access to a mwither well then cut them into a C an make a few different thickness pairs ;)

You'd be surprised how easy they are to change at the track and what a good running tool it can be once you are looking for that little extra grip in the rear without effecting the front too much.

OLLIE_NZ Enthusiast

OLLIE_NZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for your advice Brad, much appreciated :)

Ended up spending a couple of hours on the lathe on Saturday making some aluminium spacers and bushes for the rear

We machined up two 4mm aluminium spacers to put in the rear of the subframe.

We're going to take your advice and make up a few 'C' shaped spacers for the rear of varying thickness's.

img1907e.jpg

img1910w.jpg

  • 2 years later...
  • 2 months later...
NismoSTune Community Regular

NismoSTune

Posted
Posted

Some of you had made up some spacers for the rear subframe. I had done the same but 4mm all around. I see you tried different thicknesses and that someone mentioned 2mm up front (of the rear diff) how did that work out and what was the final spacers used? Did you have to make them into wedges so everything cleaned up evenly when it was different heights or they just fit right?

Also, my brake lines are banjo tight and the car is up in the air meaning its just too tight and may bust when dropped back down anyone else had this issue with these? Or it could be my N1 diff flanges are longer than stock...

Rowdyr32 Mentor

Rowdyr32

Posted
Posted

Why did the Gibson nissan/bathurst GTR's have welded plates into the top and bottom of the subframe bush locations with crush tubes if it was going to make the geometry worse??? My mate did the fab work for their cars back in the day and said they wanted to get the subframe as high as they could. Think they couldn't change the arm mounting points? Can't remember...

All the money of a race team or randoms off the internet. I know who I'd be trusting.

So many people waste time and money on here. Why they just don't go and talk to the right people I'll never know. I learnt more in an hour with this escentric bloke than I ever learnt off the forums in 10 years.

Look at Nemo. Race car builders built a car and it was fast...wow who would have expected that....

Btw Steve's built 4-5 bathurst winning cars incase you wondering it he has a background in racing. That was his life for 20 years.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PotatoCake
      Has anyone put in brand new full carpet? (not floor mats)

      By PotatoCake · Posted

      Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • MBS206
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
    • Ty1
      Hicas ball joint install tool

      By Ty1 · Posted

      Can also confirm these work a treat for most balljoints and bushes. If you have access to a big rattle gun, they make the job so much easier and quicker, compared to using a socket wrench or shifter on the c-clamp 👍
    • djr81
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By djr81 · Posted

      Its sort of street but got used for circuit sprints on account of I never drive it on the road because I dont have the time to spare. So it usage was sits around for months at a time then gets driven either 50 or 250 kms to the track followed by 20 laps followed by 50 or 250kms home followed by stuck in the shed until next time. So yeah neither fish nor fowl. Just dont want to break it on the track as a preference. Hence the fairly short sensor/mod list. Probably more worried about it pinging itself to destruction more so than anything oil related.
    • MBS206
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My thing I'd be doing, is pulling it out, and just getting the tune cleaned up for now. Before that even happens, checking over everything, like vac hoses, fuel hoses, etc. No point dropping thousands on sensors if the moment you start it back up all the oil leaks out, or it has massive vacuum leaks etc.   But really, to know what to do, depends on what your use case is. Hard core track car? Throw most sensors available at it. Street car, I'd probably just run oil pressure, oil temps, water pressure, water temp, probably fuel pressure too. I don't know exactly what the Link can handle and do with those though. And if it's mainly just to cruise the streets, rather than mountain runs, you can probably skip most of the above if you've already got them in as gauges and warning lights.   PS, inb4 "sell it and buy a modern sportscar"
×
×
  • Create New...