Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Since some of you liked my front lip DIY, I thought I'll post up another DIY that I did tonight. This time is my rear reverse light, spent about 3 hours on this.

Since I changed my right reverse light for a fog light, I've notice I can barely see when I'm reversing during night time, as I'm only left with one light, so I thought I'd brighten things up with 96 LEDs :D

Luckily, I found myself a pair of 2nd hand reverse lights to stuff around with.

Here's some pics of the process:

I opened up the reverse light housing

img1191gu.jpg

Connected two 48 LED panels together

img1192f.jpg

img1193iv.jpg

Connected the T10 end to the plug

img1194i.jpg

img1195x.jpg

img1196zd.jpg

Made a surround/backing for the LED panels (yes it's a half dodgy job lol)

img1197h.jpg

Because I wanted white light, not yellow light, I thought I'd try and clean the lens a bit lol.

Started to wet sand it with 1200

img1199o.jpg

img1200zs.jpg

Finished it off with 2000 and a polish and BAM! The crap is off.

img1201bt.jpg

Put the brand new looking lens back on

img1202e.jpg

img1203i.jpg

img1204eq.jpg

img1205u.jpg

img1206fv.jpg

Due to the time now, I haven't had a chance to put it back onto the car. But I don't think I'll convert my rear fog light to LED, as it's definitely gonna blind people behind me lol.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367902-r34-led-reverse-light-conversion/
Share on other sites

Did my tip work? ;)

As I said, I never got to try it personally.....I don't have the R34 anymore so technological advances in LED technology have stalled haha. Good that you got a spare set to play with though, that was my aim but could never find any!

OK. How did you get the plastic cover off. And where can i buy those 2 LED panels? Looks f**kin great

PM sent :)

Very nice Charles, lookin forward to pics of it installed!

And what craig said ^^

PM sent :)

I'll be putting them back on during lunch today then take a pic when I get home when it's dark :D

Did my tip work? ;)

As I said, I never got to try it personally.....I don't have the R34 anymore so technological advances in LED technology have stalled haha. Good that you got a spare set to play with though, that was my aim but could never find any!

Yes Dan, it work! Thank you sir :D

I was lucky to find a spare set for $30 including looms (which I used to wire up my rear fog lol).

I can't wait until your brake light comes, then I'll have everything LED :D

Hey guys,

Just sneaked out during lunch time to install the reverse light. Here's a pic of it.

I even put down my iPhone to record a video of it when I reversed to make sure it's working and it WORKS! :D

img1209g.jpg

Will get some photos of it while I'm reversing when I get home, and it will be dark by then, so it will be good :D

Looks great mate!

Can you send me the link too, have been looking to do this for a while.

With the wiring, was it just straight from the stock wiring, or a need for resistors ect?

Thanks mate

Edited by SCR34MIN

Just got home and tested the reverse lights for the first time and shit... IT'S BRIGHT!

Here's some pics from my iPhone 4. Remember, this is from one reverse light... Imagine what 2 would do lol.

img1211gu.jpg

img1212ot.jpg

img1213md.jpg

img1214gf.jpg

damn.. that's not gonna be bright in someones eyes will it?

Would be good with the privacy glass though LOL.. so dark at night

meh, more incentive for them to stay the fk out of your way when you reverse?!

meh, more incentive for them to stay the fk out of your way when you reverse?!

I agree, I put some 3W Crees in the CX-7 reverse lamps, makes people notice! I replaced the brake lights with some awesome LEDs also, quick response and nice and bright. I've fitted them to some S15's and Chaser and they do the job :D

Edited by 666DAN

i just put in CREE's LED's and holy shite, there brighter then the headlightsbut in reverse light holders, no mods needed... now everyone moves from behind me ,,,lol

panel led for my rego light. modded like charles reverse lights

and side mount white SMD for daytime running lights, invisible when off. on the underside of the headlight housing. R8 style

Hahah yeah, they are bright as all f*ck lol. I can actually see what I'm reversing into now, through my Japanese privacy glass xD

I guess I shouldn't replace my rear fog with these lol. Would definitely piss a few people off :D

Best of all, I spent NOWHERE near $550 for these (that's how much Japanese LED reverse light sells for) lol.

Yeah the Japanese prices are complete BS, I've been working with my factory to make 'Nismo-esque' R34 brake light inserts after the amount of people preffered them instead of our unique style.....live and learn!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...