Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you have a multi meter or even test lights, try and probe each of the possible wires (shouldnt be too hard to figure out the possiblities)

if you have enough of it and want to take it to a shop, try power international in mitchell

the wire for your starter motor is a big fat white with a black trace coming off your key barrel. (Or possibly black with a white trace) Its been a while so my memory is shit house.... just probe it with your test light and turn the key to start. You have to take the bottom part of the steering surround off to get to it. There are possibly other areas where you can get to the wire that will make it a shitload harder for a theif to get to, but this would be the easy way of doing it. You could use a relay and set it up, so that it takes a theif time to find it, and hide it in the engine bay somewhere. But then if he knows what he is doing he can start the car anyway. Slow down tactics are as good as it will get, Tow trucks can override any alarm.

I would immobilise the fuel pump, because if you start playing with the ECU and use your test light, there is a possibility you can blow it up.. You will need to probe for the wires though, cause I haven't touched them myself, so I don't know.

And the door sensor, is it an actual sensor?(I dont install alarms) Or does it just sense the power from the interior light switch? If its the latter I would try and get my hands on a wiring diagram, then you would be able to source power from a central point with the switches combine to turn on the light.

Sumo

P.S. im only a 1st year.... dont listen to me - No one else does :rofl: lol

Stirlo

I did this myself as well (saving a bucket load of cash) and I had to trace the wires for about an hour. I'm still trying to get the central locking to work, but seeing as it only has an actuator on the passanger door - I can't see it working in the short term until I purchase one for the drivers door....

Did you manage to get around this? PM me and I'll run through the wires I used.

DAN00H

DANOOH.. thanks I'll take you up on that, and hey did you end up getting your side intrusion bars installed? if so where?

its funny that only your passenger door has on, mine is the other way only my driver door has one, they donr cost much any way one about $30 from strathfield..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...