Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From what I've played with recently (a mates MFD), if your screen has red halo, patches etc then the LCD itself is burned/stuffed.

I did the usual polarised film replacement and new backlight and the red defects wacky colour are still there. Even turning the film around because I thought it was backwards didn't improve it.

post-12712-0-35663000-1375536676_thumb.jpg

I f I have my way then the screens for these will be universal shortly. I am modding one for another application and using an ENTIRELY different screen to do so.

  • 2 weeks later...

From what I've played with recently (a mates MFD), if your screen has red halo, patches etc then the LCD itself is burned/stuffed.

I did the usual polarised film replacement and new backlight and the red defects wacky colour are still there. Even turning the film around because I thought it was backwards didn't improve it.

attachicon.gifMFD screen colour burn.jpg

just wondering mate, is that exactly the same as yours looked before you replaced the film? or was worst, like as bad as mine? (photos on the previous page) my film has arrived, was going to attempt it this weekend.

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

thought id update. finally got around to giving this ago. with all the advice on here. only took 1.5 hours, start to finish. unfortunately the film does nothing for the red/orange patch halo. was worth a try though.

Other than jdm auto link, is there anywhere else the screen can be bought?

Screen is available here:

http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale/wholesale-sharp-lq6bw506.html

That's if you have the sharp unit.

Bear in mind that is JUST the screen. No input circuits.

Screen is available here:

http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale/wholesale-sharp-lq6bw506.html

That's if you have the sharp unit.

Bear in mind that is JUST the screen. No input circuits.

Thanks! alot cheaper than the $480 from autolink. yeh, mine car is an early 99 model, so im lead to believe that is the sharp? (correct me if im wrong?)

2 questions, whats involved with putting it in? im not to good with electrics, but if its just unplug, and replug, screw and unscrew i should be right hahah

And wich one do i need, they all have the same model number, but different description on the link.

cheers in advance

  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE. got the screen off alibaba.com for $95 posted. (thats including an extra $6 for express postage). there where some sellers selling even cheaper lol. but didn't wanna push my luck with the tight assness. was peice of cake to put in, plug and play as i expected. works perfect.

Either way, i still have the lcd film if anybody in PERTH wants it they can have it for free. ive only cut out one attemp (didn't work for the orange patch). so theres atleast another 5 attemps left as i bought the big one. (seems a waste to throw it out)

So who did you use?

I need a screen as well. Last time I tried to buy one for a customer I got screwed over.

Link would be handy.

cheers for the link btw, would have never thought alibaba.com. this is the actual product/seller i chose.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Brand-new-SHARP-SCREEN-LQ6BW506-LCD-MODULES-FOR-SUBARU-CAR-DVD-AUDIO-SYSTEMS-DISPLAY/1258839026.html

$95 posted express (bought on Thursday, came the following Thursday)

  • AAHH33 can i get some of your lcd films? dont mind to share the cost with you, im based in perth

its all good man. if you want to come pick it up. you can have it. i dont need it. im NOR btw

Been using various suppliers from there for years.

Wasn't too fussed about giving away the LCD suppliers as its not really my market.

Thanks for the link. Just ordered one.

ok, i noticed this happening from time to time before i replaced the screen, and hoped replacing the screen would fix it. but from time to time the mfd is just a blank white screen.

and since i have replaced the screen it is frustrating me now. for example, out of the last 5 drives in the car, 2 out of the 5 times the screen has just been blank white. goes white, then i turn the car off and on again, and its back to normal/

Anybody know what is causing this?

Box it up with your old screen and send it across. I had one do this before and sorted it. I have the schematics for the MFD & the display itself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...