Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Trans Un/lock Mod

Sunkist

By Sunkist,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

BoostdR Mentor

BoostdR

Posted
Posted

I guess the idea is to give more direct response in manual mode without the cushion of the converter. I agree with a power increase without a corresponding trans reprogram lockup is a bad idea at high throttle openings. 6 years is a good soak test.

I called Mike yest twice to confirm his thoughts... Can't argue with hard data. I'll keep investigating this power switch

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Well the same TCU is in the V35 which has a power switch, I can only assume they left it out in the Family wagon version. The switch input may still be there unused though...

I have the Jatco transmission service manual here, I should look to see if the pin is marked 'Power mode' :P

  • Like 1
BoostdR Mentor

BoostdR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sounds like a plan Scotty, I'll have a look through the functions menu on the G-Scan and see if I can activate it via CAN command. From schematics it looks like the signal to activate 'Power' mode is transferred to the TCM by the CAN line which will make things harder to synthetically simulate(not impossible). If I can activate it I can easily log shift durations/manual change down rpm points/change points vs throttle position to prove how much the power map changes things to work out if further research is justified.

Matt

Edited by BoostdR
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Well, looks like the power switch has nothing to do with the TCU, it must go to the ECU then down the CAN line, or perhaps just the ECU is doing all the adjustments directly. A lot of it would be throttle control and timing alterations anyway, for gear shifting.

  • 2 weeks later...
BoostdR Mentor

BoostdR

Posted
Posted

Interesting reading of the consult 3 manual.

Clear Calibration data of the TCM (EEPROM Clear)

1. Shift selector to R(engine stopped ign ON)

2. Depress and hold brake pedal. Erase DTC while depressing accelerator pedal angle to 25-50%

3. Ignition switch to OFF (Hold for 10sec)

4. Ign sw to ON (10sec)

5. Ign sw to OFF(10Sec)

6. Ign sw to ON(10SEC)

7. Start

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • robbo_rb180
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      AFM looks to be a z32 The injectors maybe old Nismo 555cc The turbo tag when looked up seems to be a gt2871 , imagine it would have the bigger rear housing .82 all look like the mid 00's mods when he started building it up. Vac hose seems right but would need to see a diagram. Great work going up there and sorting it out, be a good club car for someone wanting a good reliable rig.  I know I would like to have it but no space and too many other race cars at the moment.
    • Kyer32
      R32 gtst speedo out by 10kph

      By Kyer32 · Posted

      Heys guys I got a r32 gtst speedo is out by 10kph seems the faster I go the more it be out  just seeing if anyone else had to problem and knows how to fix it 
    • Duncan
      R32 GTR EV? The leaf of the Godzilla's!

      By Duncan · Posted

      I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better. 
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
×
×
  • Create New...