Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i'm just wondering what the diffrence between the rb 20 red and black tops were i will be installing an rb into my car soonish and have found a cheep red top i'm just wondering if there as good as the blacks and what the diffrence is beween the 2 are

thanks in advance

-Marc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/36824-rb20-red-top-v-rb20-black-top/
Share on other sites

I think you will find most ppl refer to them as silver top and red top.

There is a fair bit of difference, with different inlet manifold setups, different blocks (some say the red top has stronger block) different turbos, different ECUS.

Whether the cams and compression ratio ares the same i cant tell you, but considerign the silver tops make more power std, something like 145 vs 160kws and are newer with much niocer turbos then id be lookign for a silver top...

also, the red top came in NICS and ECCS versions. the NICS version had a head design that gave it better low down torque but strangled it up top. the ECCS is much closer to the silver-top RB20 in design and power output.

Personally I wouldn't bother with a NICS. either ECCS (the engine that's in my car) or a silvertop - the latter is preferable due to its newer vintage and slightly higher power output.

Also sensors and parts for the red-top.

There are 3 different CAS for the red top series.

Silver top heads dont bolt on etc etc.

So if you cook your red-top... finding parts is harder than it would be for a silver and in the end will cost ya more $$$

I'll make a list of what i have read/heard about the differences. please correct me if i'm wrong...

red top has a lower compression ratio

red top has a non-BB turbo

they both have different cams, head design, and ECU

that's all i can remember at the moment.

basically, don't go the red top unless its dirt cheap!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...