Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well reading those track times and the cars that have done them kinda makes me sad :ermm:

mayb i should aim for something more like 1:20?

Braking and suspention hasnt been fully worked out yet but s13 gear up front and custom work in the rear is all we've decided so far :happy:

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

my 2c is throw the time book out the window. Do what you can to the car, and see what you can improve on. Otherwise everyone will keep shooting you down telling you what you cant do, rather than help....like a lot of replies so far.

Good luck, and hope it goes well.

my 2c is throw the time book out the window.

Absolutely. The project is a cool one however and I'm looking forwards to seeing how it goes. I have a buddy looking at grafting an MX5 IRS into a S3 RX7 to build as a Targa Classics car. People say he is mad but like you he is looking to build a quick car on a budget.

Anyways - keep at it.

Hey guys the from braking system has been chosen! And would like some advise or things to change

So it will have modded s14 knuckles with stagea hubs, s13 Adj LCA's and stage 1 R33 GTR brakes with braided lines

That'll give me stopping power in the front! Now I gotta figure out how to balance the rear with the front any suggestions?

I personally would just go with R33 GTS25t brakes rather then the far more expensive R33 GTR brakes. You will be able to get rotors and 4 pot fronts and 2 pot rears close to fitted for the price of the GTR fronts alone. And the major difference in a car with your grip and weight will be in the pad, not in the need for large rotors

XF Falcon Rear ventilated discs & calipers are a near bolt on fit on the Borg Warner diff; 296mm x 30mm rotor, I think.

Very minor machine work from memory. Retains intrernal handbrake too! Other than that, use the R33 2 piston jobbies with matching rotors and make some new backing plates.

It would pay you to have a look at the R31Skyline website too.

Good luck champ!:cheers:

I personally would just go with R33 GTS25t brakes rather then the far more expensive R33 GTR brakes. You will be able to get rotors and 4 pot fronts and 2 pot rears close to fitted for the price of the GTR fronts alone. And the major difference in a car with your grip and weight will be in the pad, not in the need for large rotors

2nd'd

im running R32 gtst gear all round. decent pads and slotted rotors with ducting will be more than adequate for your car.

i can out-brake 33 gtr's due to the weight of my car

Nope, you 3 guys above are dead wrong - Mallala is all about brakes. Forget the Eastern seaboard high speed tracks, if you don't have amazing brakes at Mallala you will NOT go well. The serious SA guys that do time attack have massive AP Racing brakes with 350mm-odd rotors, one has ProjectMu calipers/rotors, and Heslo got rid of his R33GTR brakes/rotors in favour of some heavy duty Brembo 6 pot front and 4 pot rears with massive slotted rotors of an AMG.

Get the absolute best you can afford mungy, AND throw some awesome pads on too!

1.10 around mallala is impossible with what you have got / have planned.

hell mate, with my stripped R32 sedan I doubt Id get under 1min20secs. (cage, coilovers, wilwood brakes, semi-slicks) with a fully rebuilt RB26dett (87mm CP pistons, ati balancer, machined crank/collar, HKS oil pump, N1 water pump, new Cometic streetpro gaskets allround, new belts, Greddy R34 street special cams, hks camsprings, ported head, hks dumps, obx manifolds & front pipe, rebuilt turbos, 550cc injectors, Power-fc..... etc).

a realistic goal would be mid to low 1min 20secs.

Nope, you 3 guys above are dead wrong - Mallala is all about brakes. Forget the Eastern seaboard high speed tracks, if you don't have amazing brakes at Mallala you will NOT go well. The serious SA guys that do time attack have massive AP Racing brakes with 350mm-odd rotors, one has ProjectMu calipers/rotors, and Heslo got rid of his R33GTR brakes/rotors in favour of some heavy duty Brembo 6 pot front and 4 pot rears with massive slotted rotors of an AMG.

Get the absolute best you can afford mungy, AND throw some awesome pads on too!

Agree to disagree....if you hvae big hp, weight and grip you need big brakes. If you have lower weight, less grip and power then you can get away with far less brakes. Mallala cant be any worse then Sandown or Calder.

NO TRACK IS EVER ALL ABOUT BRAKES! :) The best way to improve the stopping distance of your car is mega dollar shocks that control the pitch under braking and keep all four tyres on the road over the bumps and track surface (set up properly) and very soft and grippy tyres. The stability/control under brakes and tyre grip is what stops the car....the brakes are there to just disperse the heat. Very few cars improve lap times significantly with brake upgrade alone if you leave your tyres and suspension as is. That is assuming what you have is capable, which a std R31 sliding calipers are not, but Sumitomo calipers with good pads and rotors are. IMO :)

Your budget should always be spent on tyres, shocks and brakes.. IMO in that order. Good tyres mask bad suspension. Good tyres help acceleration, turning and stopping. Throw in some good suspension and the car accelerates better, turns better and stops better. Throw big brakes on a car without the other two and its a waste... and major brake upgrades are along with engine rebuilds about the most expensive thing you can mod on your car which both happen to do little to improve performance

Think about an 1150kg R31 that is doing 180km/h down the straights compared to a GTR that is 1600kgs doing 220km/h on the same straight...there corner speeds can be pretty similar by 5-10km/h...no way the R31 will need as much brake as the GTR.

And back to the improving lap times...think about cars finishing the qtr mile that are 2 tenths apart at 120mph. There are several car lenghts difference...I cant think of too many practical situations where a brake upgrade will shave seconds off a single lap time...perhaps over the time it takes to complete 5+ laps but not over a lap which is all 90% of think about with club sprints

Your dream of 1.10..well..hey..aim high or dont aim at all!

But seriously, aim for it. But plan to achieve smaller goals to reach that goal.

Aim to get the car ready to just drive out there. Have a good go, make sure you stick to the racing line, and see how the car handles and what needs improvement.

You have enough power, now you need to put it to the ground.

Kitto's time of a 1.20 was achieved because he thought about his setup. His brake system has been beefed up, and the right pads were selected. He chose good tyres also.

My time of 1.37 that day was shocking in my HR31..put down to crap pads and bad tyres. I still had the most fun out there though.

R33 calipers, upgraded master cylinder and booster, braided lines, slotted rotors and good tyres will get you around there under 1.30 no problem.

1.25's...well...depends how you put the power to the ground and how late you brake.

thanks for the info guys mayb i should hav stated the reason im going overkill on brakes, our old corolla track car's first time was 1:45, with custom built suspention and semi slicks went down to 1:40, then we got the brakes upgraded and hit 1:30's consistently. the rotors were still not as large as i would have liked and we had the brakes overheat a few times

and started to get brake fade as soon as 5 laps in and had to slow down

Dont forget guys the car will be making 280 rwkw so down the straight im thinking she would get to somewhere between 170 and 190 kmph? the later i can brake the better,

and the bigger rortors are simply there for better heat dispertion the calipers are still the standard 33GTR and the pads im thinking of using red stuff or green stuff and DOT 5.1 fluid

that combination will mean that after doing many laps ill still have 100% braking ability ( i cant stand brake fade just as u get used to the track)

Tangles, the goal has been revised.........no more time book lol, going to do the best i can then try n beat it each time im out there. my budget just wont allow me to go as fast as id like lol.

You are serisouly telling me that in your old Corolla you got a real 10sec per lap improvement with brakes alone? No different in tyres, cars weight, driver imrpovement, suspension etc...just brakes ? Any more detail about the cars mods and the changes to the brakes?

the brake upgrage on the corolla consisded of larger ae93sx rotors with 4 pot calipers, green stuff pads forgot what fluid we used ill chase up the video from youtube and post it up here when i find it lol :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...