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Help Me! Power Loss Issue


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Hi everyone

Car is R33 gts-t S2

Issue I am getting could almost be explained like having a slipping clutch. Put the foot down and the motor will rev and suck a lot of air but it goes no where. It will get a power kick for a second then nothing then kick in then nothing. It also seems to vary depending fuel in the tank. Generally less fuel means the problem is bigger and happens more.

I have tried with no success

- New fuel filter

- Octane boost \ engine cleaner stuff

- Check coil packs for cracks

- I think i have replaced the spark plugs

Another issue I have would be the battery doesnt seem to hold charge for long. For example I didnt drive it for a week and the battery was flat. (I have no alarm) My blinker blinks fast but all lights work. If listened to the radio for an hour I believe the battery would already be flat. (only 2 standard back shelf speakers)

- I have gone through 2 batteries already

Thanks for the help all :D

Edited by Julzillionaire
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so the revs increase but the speed doesn't? if so, definitely a clutch slip issue. a new clutch is your only real solution, but if it has been going on for a while then the flywheel might be in bad shape too. if it isn't a case of revs increasing but speed not, then your clutch is ok. if it is just that the car is gutless then it may be a fuel pump issue. if it sounds like it's misfiring, then it will be the coils, or possibly the ignitor pack (if you've changed the spark plugs then you can rule them out).

as for the battery issue, could be 1 of 2 things. 1: something is continuing to draw charge (possibly something like a boot light). this can be checked with a multimeter. 2: the alternator is cactus. again, can be checked with a multimeter.

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so the revs increase but the speed doesn't? if so, definitely a clutch slip issue. a new clutch is your only real solution, but if it has been going on for a while then the flywheel might be in bad shape too. if it isn't a case of revs increasing but speed not, then your clutch is ok. if it is just that the car is gutless then it may be a fuel pump issue. if it sounds like it's misfiring, then it will be the coils, or possibly the ignitor pack (if you've changed the spark plugs then you can rule them out).

as for the battery issue, could be 1 of 2 things. 1: something is continuing to draw charge (possibly something like a boot light). this can be checked with a multimeter. 2: the alternator is cactus. again, can be checked with a multimeter.

Hi,

Speed does increase but its gutless. I'm thinking fuel as well. Thanks for the multimeter tip, I will try that.

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What boost controller? Have you set it right? My old car with a profec b spec 2 would punch then hit the limiter then I lose boost and it goes gutless then kicks back in. Chucked it on the dyno and my boost graph was a f**king heart beat readout, up and down.

Stock turbo has a 7psi actuator. Switch your boost controller off and see how it runs on 7psi. Leave wastegate connected obviously just use a direct line to the inlet on the wastegate and 7psi will push it open.

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What boost controller? Have you set it right? My old car with a profec b spec 2 would punch then hit the limiter then I lose boost and it goes gutless then kicks back in. Chucked it on the dyno and my boost graph was a f**king heart beat readout, up and down.

Stock turbo has a 7psi actuator. Switch your boost controller off and see how it runs on 7psi. Leave wastegate connected obviously just use a direct line to the inlet on the wastegate and 7psi will push it open.

I have forgotten all the terminology and names for things since it has been years since I was into cars. But mine has a manual boost thingy that gives it 10 psi all the time. As stock i think has 5psi then opens to 7psi ?

Do you suggest to plug it into the stock solinoid..?

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your fuel pump could possibly be on its way out..

I'm thinking this may be the case. What should I replace it with? With possible upgrades in the distant future. Or where can I pick up a second hand or cheap stock one? Also do I just need a pump its self or are other items needed ?

Is this a good replacement?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Walbro-GSS342-Fuel-Pump-Nissan-S13-S14-S15-R32-R33-R34-/170583647922?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b793e6b2

*NOTE this gutless issue has been like this over a year. Also chews through the juice compared to when I first got it. From memory

Edited by Julzillionaire
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that is a good replacement and it is all you will need to replace your fuel pump. dont buy one 2nd hand.

do you notice any black smoke out of your exhaust when it happens?

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Any idea on Nissan genuine part price or even part number?

Just because there pretty quick with delivery. Usually next day.

Or even a

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/genuine-not-cheap-copy-BOSCH-040-600hp-fuel-pump-/360191720253?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53dd197b3d

??

Edited by Julzillionaire
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the walbro would fit on the bracket better than the bosch. i've had both and the walbro fits better.

Ok Thanks for the help.

I rang bursons today and they quoted = approx $290

Repco said theyll ring back and when I rang them back said they have no idea and theres only 2 staff in the shop = approx fail

Ebay = approx $120

ebay for the win

For people in the future reading this I will be following these instructions with this fuel pump Walbro GSS342

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/85375-r33-gtst-fuel-pump-install/page__st__20

So any questions PM me

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I also did as much as I could out of this DIY

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/174735-fixing-idlestarting-problems-rb25det-cleaning-air-regulator-easy-way/page__p__3204938__hl__tighten+throttle__fromsearch__1#entry3204938

My car idols a lot better and seems to have more guts. But now im starting to think its a clutch issue. Because its acting like when my last clutch went. Now I have to decide whether its cluth or fuel now....

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