Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well yeah,

ive been putting some money away every week just bit by bit to get a set of courner sub box's molded to fit a R33.

The time had come to go on ebay and purchase them, but unfortunatly Seductive sounds has no items for sale anymore, it seems they have taken down everything. Then my search started to see if there was a guide to make my own or anywhere else that i could get them from, and well it was a useless search full of useless results.

Any help would be awesome guys :)

Lucas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368291-seductive-sounds/
Share on other sites

If you want some seductive sounds just install a plumb-back BOV, 3" exhaust with a muffler and remove your sound deadening and stereo.

RB engines have such a good sound to them :)

Edit: but to answer your question; I'm searching for a guide I saw once upon a time which had a really good DIY for a sub box..

If you're willing to pay, I have a friend who might be interested in doing it.

Edited by SKITTLES

RB's have a good sound to them when theres a turbo bolted on to the side of them, but problem is i dont have one :(

I thought you didn't.. but your avatar suggests otherwise. haha that looks like the standard metal intake pipe running across the head. Guess I'm wrong though. ><

Haha you haven't heard my baby :) She sounds great (other than that N/A rattle ><)

Still searching.... * not too long later * okay I'm about to pass out from heat exhaustion.

I can't find the tucked-in solution (the fibre glass one, for instance). But I know my 10" sub box fits neatly into the side of my boot, and if I were to hack up some wooden thing in the rear it could look flush.

But that's heavy.. you don't want heavy in an N/A.. remind me tomorrow and I'll find out how to do it.

hahaha dp is my old r32 that i had a rb25 turbo in , just for track not complied and all that other bullcrap, got rid of it a while ago but still worth keeping as my avatar :)

um yeah i put a non-turbo 25 in this r33 for the girlfriend but after driving it, handled better and was abit more fun then my ute, so shes stuck with the ute hahaha. straight swap ;) no cash on top.

plus im on my p's so yeah . no point converting for a track car

Edited by Lucaas

I have one of their sub boxes in my R34. The sound is decent if you are not an audiophile. The box itself is very weak, we had to reinforce it with more fibreglass, but the biggest positive is it comes moulded for either left or right side of the skyines. For me it means more usable space in my boot. I havent had to remove it so far to fit other stuff into the boot. Let me know if you want to see it in person. I dug up their contact details from their auctiva site: http://www.auctiva.com/stores/viewstore2.aspx?id=910452&page=contact

a custom molded box can fit behind your panels ,leaving you all of your boot space ???? 12" subs fit both sides unless your running some monster subs with deep magnets,

and the new shallow mount stuff can fit under rear decks on some cars or behind the factory panels in the boot. and can be well hidden

I'd show you mine but its more elaborate then a sealed box and made out of carbon fiber/lexan

I guess in the end it comes down to what type of sound you are happy with and how much you want to spend (I think the latter is the primary decision point for many). Wow, I had no idea you could fit 12" sub behind the panel, damn should have asked on here before installing mine. Troy, can you suggest anyone in Sydney I can talk to about that? Might sell my 'box' and mount behind the panel.

hmm not positive but chis rogers might know ?more

queen street ? maybe

In car intalllations

anyone who can do a mold for the area, you need to move your jack to inside your spare tyre well , which has more then enough room.

and don't cut metal, it can be a structual defect per ADR rules

the space is about a litre depending on how tight the fit it. . remember you might need to service your light globes and remove your rear bar sometime so don't hinder that access perm(R34)

Edited by sapphiregraphics

doran pro audio in bankstown

the area is the boot on the sides is close to 1.5 cubic feet, not 1.5 liters. oops.lol my USA side got sidetracked. and that takes into account the fiberglass and most med. price subs magnet structure and poly fill.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...