Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I currently have a hks gt2530 that needs a rebuilt, originally i wanted a garret gt3076r, but i also found a very cheap rb25 high flow turbo in good nick. Im hoping to get about 250-270 kw with supporting mods without killing my turbo. What should i do?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368415-your-opinion-on-what-turbo-to-use/
Share on other sites

I think it just completely depends on your intended use for the car etc. Highflow will be at its limits with that sort of power from what i have seen though. I would say the only upside to the highflow unit is that it will appear standard from the outside, making it harder to get defected etc if you dont engineer it. For the direct comparison of delivery/ lag etc your best bet is to spend some time in the rb25 turbo upgrade dyno thread. Heaps of good info in there mate.

ok thanks for the feedback, ive been looking at the turbo upgrade forum heaps lately but just wanted some opinions of people who know about these turbos. i think i might just bugger off the gt2530 and spend the extra doe and get the gt3076r

^^^ only slightly, and the 0.63AR housing tends to overboost, while the 0.82AR housing response is very close to the 3076.

The 3071 is best with a cropped rear wheel in the correct (HKS) housing....ala 2835.

My housemate makes 250kw with his high flowed Turbo @ 16 PSI. Loves it love time.

3076R will do the power you want and future proof you for when you want 300kw :D

I've got the 3076R in mine, fkn love it so much. Makes such an epic noise.

Be it myself I would rebuild the blown HKS turbo. The housings would be a sweet thing to have... I would redo it as a 2871 52t.

Send it to hypergear and tell him the specs you want. IMHO do not let him upsell you a bigger CHRA as the HKS housings are awesome and the HKS GTRS (2871 52t) is an awesome turbo for an RB25.

GL

+1 3076, it'll give you same power as the 3071 with only slightly more lag and potential for 300rwkw. Guy at work has one and its a ripper turbo.

Whats you budget? The 3076 isnt cheaper especially compared to the highflow, not to sure about highflow figures but a op6 rear housing highflow should make really good power.

I would have thought the 2530 would be to small on a 25, thats a perfect turbo for a 20 though.

Slight difference to the norm here...

Personally I think the 3076 .82 is too much for an rb25 for drift. (guess based upon your pic and the A31)

Whilst not a laggy turbo by any stretch, it is certainy a lil doughy when compared to a 2835 or gtrs equipped car.

my car (hks 2835 pro s) on LOW boost (16psi and 260rwkw) is more fun and feels faster than my mates 3076 with 18psi and 280rwkw. My car on 18 or 20 psi is a hands down winner in my opinion.

I think GT scott is on the money here.

I'd rather have a 250rwkw gtrs than a 300rwkw 3076 due to the amazing response. It's just simply a more fun drive in my books

With a street RB25DET I don't think its the GT28 turbine , HKS 2530 in todayspeak is a GT28 based turbo , thats so much the problem rather the 60mm compressor wheel .

Most here say that GT2530s , 2830 really , run out at about 220 RWKW and that the HKS GTRS or GT2871R with 52 trim compressor goes to maybe 250-260 RWKW depending on other mods and tuning .

I don't think I've seen too many people complain about these GTRSs except if they went looking for 270-300 RWKWs .

The people with GTRSs really like them for general use because you don't have to rev RB25s very much to get some squirt . Also with the right bits its a very straightforward install compared to GT30 based turbos and their non std style turbine housings .

I suggest you speak to Woolverine here as he's had RB25 Hi Flows/GTRS/GT2835 Pro S on his cars so he can make direct comparisons . Last I heard he was looking to spend more time tuning with the GT2835 Pro to try and get back some of the nice response that his , mine now , GTRS had .

My gut feeling is that GT3076Rs are a bit big in the wheel trims , turbine and compressor wheels , to have what most would call good all round performance . Garrett steadfastly refuses to reduce the trim size of GT30 and GT35 turbines like they did with the larger ball bearing GT37 and GT40 based turbos and while big trims are good for high end numbers they are hopeless when it comes to having overall power with acceptable turbo response . Its the reason why Mitsubishi TD04/TD05/TD06 turbines often work better than Garrett GT30/35s do .

Another thing we are sadly lacking is a Garrett type GT30 turbine housing with T3 flange and integral wastegate , if these could be machined to take the cropped GT30 turbine , the inaptly called 28 in 2835 series HKS turbos , these cropped GT3071 type turbos would easily bolt up to RB25s etc . Such a turbine housing in 0.63 AR should make a good thing with a 52 or 56 trim 71mm compressor .

Anyway my vote goes to a GTRS or possibly a OP6 based GCG Hi Flow . I know its hard because neither is what youd call cheap new but people have to think twice about equating $ to max RWKWs . A responsive good all round turbo sollution often costs more than one that works up high at the expense of low to mid range squirt .

The HKS turbos aways cost more than similar Garrett marketed turbos and while some of this is "HKS Tax" they went to some trouble at times to develop and fit custom housings that change the performance of Garrett ball bearing cartridges . For example those port shrouded compressor housings on Nissan RB spec GTRSs and GT2835 Pro Ss make a big difference and they were not fitted just for show .

The T3 flanged GT28 turbine housings on RB spec HKS 2530/2535/GTRS are unique and I really wish they'd made them in 0.86 as well as 0.64 ARs . All these use GT28 turbines too BTW .

These turbos may not pump 20 pounds of boost into an RB25 at 7000 revs but they pull up well down low where people drive most of the time . I think it'd be a lot easier to "fall off the turbo" between gear changes using say a GT3076R with the 0.82 AR turbine housing , if the GT30 got 270 Kw and the GTRS 250 then your not very far behind but you can use it 90% of the time rather than 60 . You can get torque from boost at more legal speeds with the GTRS and thats where cars are 90% of the time .

Anyway your call , I hate cars that you need to rev to make any worthwhile performance . They are tedious to drive and lag is NOT forplay for power IMO .

Its one thing to coax and court a bird but once you buy the book it should be down to a bunch of flowers and a bottle of somthing good . Who wants to wait a week for - what was it , yeah - boost .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because all parts that are put into your papers usually are assigned a badging if they did not come with one. So other people can just check that badging to tell if it is the parts your papes outline. But my pipe has NOTHING on it whatsoever. No idea why this even passed as a Mines pipe to begin with. I see this going two ways: -nobody cares and it's a non-issue, but that is unlikely -the pipe will just have to be assigned a bagding, for sake of argument, a Mines logo, and the papers corrected accordingly If it interests you I will post what the actual solution ended up being. All I care about is that it has to sound equal length and nobody can screw me later on because of a pipe being illegal.
    • The fasteners to the pipe are not subject to TÜV I guess, if we really start putting nuts and bolts through technical tests I'm going to hang the people responsible and then myself. Usually on a modern-ish EU normed car, you would just replace the pipe. Because if you start hacking away at it and welding new pieces on the cops will definitely find a reason to tow your car. That is just how it is sadly. On old cars and imports with no clear "standard" stuff like that won't matter too much. Most cops or inspectors probably won't even really know what they are looking at. But there is experts for this stuff even among cops, and some of them know the rules to a T and even have extensive knowledge about many vehicles. For "just a pipe" to be legal it usually is included in a set of parts, like a complete intake kit or a full exhaust. For example my exhaust needs to pass a noise test, meaning they have a standardized test track with a set of instructions and they run the car through there 3x for an average noise value that is 75dB(a) at point x of the test track. If it's above that, fail. For a turbo setup to be put in your papers you have to do dyno runs, emissions testing etc. So quite costly
    • Would this not be the same for the exhaust you've posted up?  If your exhaust volume and emissions are fine, why does the brand of pipe matter? 
    • The issue is more the fact that there is inspectors that deal with japanese cars a lot and they might know what a real Mines pipe looks like. And then they're gonna get antsy and not pass your car. But I'd have to talk to one of them about this, because you know as well as me that it's just a damn pipe and it effectively doesn't do anything. As I need to have my GT2860s and my exhaust setup (and the increase in HP) TÜV'd anyways maybe they can just correct the entry in the papers or assign a badge to the front pipe. I'm no expert either though, will inquire about this.     Thanks for the insight. Not sure if having a custom made pipe is good or not. Will find out in due time I suppose. Would be kind of funny if this was made in Germany though.
    • See this is a really tricky topic as technically the same rules apply to all cars but for cars but there is a difference. If you want to modify a car like the Skyline which never existed here you have a bit more freedom as they do not adhere to EU specs anyway. Any modification you do has to be in dividually checked anyway so as long as one of the inspectors think it's ok and within the TÜV ruleset you can get stuff like a top secret rear diffuser put in your papers. Which frankly would need a shitload of tests and certificates for EU spec cars, like a 2010 BMW M3 for example. But if you DO run these tests and all tests come out ok (safety stuff for the most part) there is no problem running such a part legally. It's just way too expensive to do for a single person on one car. The most touchy parts are emissions related mods, like an exhaust, turbos, air intakes. If it makes noise or alters the carbon emissions it's essentially illegal until you prove it's not. Meaning it doesn't exceed noise limits or have worse carbon emissions. I'd say for hoses if you replace them same same it doesn't matter what material they are or what brand you use. Same for nuts and bolts usually, they won't go and specifically check that your water hoses and some bolts are 100% OEM parts, that is nonsense.
×
×
  • Create New...