Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have done a bit of a search and can't find any thing that helps.

I have just had my rb30 crank machined and a crank collar put on. I just test fitted the oil pump gear on the collar and noticed there seems to be a lot more clearance than what I would have expected. I measured a total of 12 thou, Ie 6 though on each flat face. Firstly is that normal? that amount of slop I would have expected to negate the whole purpose of the collar.

Do people shim up there gears? I'm think about getting 2 small peices 4 thou shim and loctite 406'ing it to the crank collar just to tighten it up a little. I noticed tonight that the glue added about 1 thou. so In theory it would bring it down to about 2 thou.

What does every 1 else do?

Lastly when using a standard rb25 pump on a built rb30, do people put say a 2mm washer in the oil relief valve?

regards

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368570-crank-collar-clearance-issue/
Share on other sites

Chris, that is why I'm a fan of welding the snout up and machining to suit the particular gears you are using. For me, 12thou is way too much slop!

As for the oil pump relief, I'm running a stock RB30E pump on my next engine and I shimmed the relief spring with an approx. 2mm washer.

Hey Mr Bubs, In hind sight I think your onto something and I probably should have gone the welded route.

12 thou makes the oil pump gear rock back and forth like its on a rocking chair. I don't understand why there isn't alot more post's relating to this subject I mean its so damn obvious to me lol

Yeh that point is a good one. However, What does the clearance become when the engine is running and everything has heated up and expanded?

Also another point is the crank doesnt run perfectly centred at xxxx rpm, there is always a certain amount of runout. Too tight on that clearance and it will be just as bad as not having a collar at all. How much runout there is i dont know, But there is no way the snout is always perfectly centred when your at 7000rpm bouncing off the limiter.

But 0.012" is alot, and no doubt it can probably be run abit tighter. But there is no way of knowing until someone who has run tighter can say its been fine and tells you what clearance they actually did run. Or you try it yourself and see what happens.

But I dont think 0.002" is enough. Hopefully someone else with more exp can shed some light here.

If I was going to machine a collar Id probably aim for about 0.006" overall, 0.003" per side. But thats just my own guess. Without knowing expansion and run out its hard to say.

Yeh that point is a good one. However, What does the clearance become when the engine is running and everything has heated up and expanded?

If both pieces are made from the same metal (or if they have the same coefficient of thermal expansion), the clearance will not change if they stay at the same temperature.

Chris, that is why I'm a fan of welding the snout up and machining to suit the particular gears you are using. For me, 12thou is way too much slop!

how hard did this hit the back pocket? significantly more than collar?

Doesnt the aftermarket crank collars and a std r33/r34 crank measure up the same OD?

I think you might be right but I no longer have the neo Rb25 block to mic it up. I went with the 4thou shim and its still possible a bit tight. I'll have more of a look tonight now that the glue has dried and I can take the sharp edges off the shim.

how hard did this hit the back pocket? significantly more than collar?

Not sure on cost as I haven't done mine yet as my forged build is on hold for a while, chuckie should know soon. We had it done to my mates 30 in his GTS4 and that thing cops an absolute beating, 8500rpm limiter launches and burnouts, still going strong.

Realistically, it should add much onto the cost of machining at all. Wouldn't take more than an hour to weld the snout up and if just fitting a collar the snout needs to be machined right down anyway.

On the topic of crank runout.... why would a splined setup ala JZ, not completely destroy itself?

Not sure on cost as I haven't done mine yet as my forged build is on hold for a while, chuckie should know soon. We had it done to my mates 30 in his GTS4 and that thing cops an absolute beating, 8500rpm limiter launches and burnouts, still going strong.

Realistically, it should add much onto the cost of machining at all. Wouldn't take more than an hour to weld the snout up and if just fitting a collar the snout needs to be machined right down anyway.

On the topic of crank runout.... why would a splined setup ala JZ, not completely destroy itself?

is you mates motor rb26 or rb30?

Not sure on cost as I haven't done mine yet as my forged build is on hold for a while, chuckie should know soon. We had it done to my mates 30 in his GTS4 and that thing cops an absolute beating, 8500rpm limiter launches and burnouts, still going strong.

Realistically, it should add much onto the cost of machining at all. Wouldn't take more than an hour to weld the snout up and if just fitting a collar the snout needs to be machined right down anyway.

On the topic of crank runout.... why would a splined setup ala JZ, not completely destroy itself?

Whats the 2J setup look like exactly? How many splines and do you know what sort of clearance it runs? No doubt its better then our nissan design. Seems toyota also improves on everything nissan didnt :( Splined from the get go sounds alot better.

Im guessing it probably has ample clearance as well, or maybe their cranks are made of better material and dont flex/runout as much?

is you mates motor rb26 or rb30?

25t/30

We had it done to my mates 30

:thumbsup:

Whats the 2J setup look like exactly? How many splines and do you know what sort of clearance it runs? No doubt its better then our nissan design. Seems toyota also improves on everything nissan didnt :( Splined from the get go sounds alot better.

Im guessing it probably has ample clearance as well, or maybe their cranks are made of better material and dont flex/runout as much?

It looks pretty much like an axle end where it goes into the diff.. as for clearance, I have no idea. Shanef was working on a splined setup for RB's but got ripped off by his machinist or something :/

2JZ-GE oil pump..

oilpump.jpg

Hey so it turns out that 4tho shim is still too tight and I can't get the oil pump gear on. which is a pain when I know that if the gear is in position I can push 2x 6 tho feeler gauges under it.

Also Loctite 406 is not a valid option as it is extremely hard to get it to key on and stop the shim from peeling off. Thats If you are quick enough to actualy get the glue on without gluing the shim to your hand first.

My boss suggested using Loctite 680 high strength retaining compound. So I'll let you know I go with that experiment.

At the rate I'm going this motor is going to take about 2 years to get running. Almost give you a run for your money ay Bubba????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
    • Just wanted to say thank you for your input   my man (lead mechanic by trade) and I have done a heap of work as you can imagine just to make the hot side work with the dump pipe, stupid massive intake on turbo, trying to get the waste gate on was not fun.  I’m kinda getting to the point where I don’t know if I try and make this work and not throw all this cash and time away or do I scrap the lot and start again? the Apexi I’ve got was tuned for a few slight differences:   Tomei pon cams (mine are stock neo) Turbo smart 38mm external waste gate (mines 45mm replumbed) with stainless screamer pipe  3inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat Sard 800cc top feed injectors Sard adjustable fuel pressure reg    
    • Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
×
×
  • Create New...