Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Installed a 1.5 way in my R33 GTS-T recently and she's very, very clunky. I know they are supposed to be when turning corners at low speed, but this is a very violent kind of clunking...talking, like someone hitting the underside of the car with a hammer. I can feel it through my seat! I did the break in procedure, and it did feel better after that...it stopped clunking when turning with deceleration / throttle off...but still does it plenty with throttle on, ala turning at an intersection or stop sign. Strangely, if you have enough throttle on when taking the corner (put your foot into it), rather than clunking it will just tyre chirp/pivot which is much more pleasant.

I drained out the oil today and put in fresh oil with some anti chatter / friction modifier...took it for a short drive and that seems to have helped a bit. But I am hoping it will go away in time. I don't mind some minor clunking, it's to be expected from a diff designed for racing...but this heavy shit has to go.

What are other peoples experiences with their KAAZ diff? The grip of this thing is fantastic. Ordinarily, driving in a straight line in the wet with second gear coming onto boost would be straight into a fishtail...this diff just held it's course on the straight and narrow. So can't complain about it's functionality, just the clunkiness on turns that is driving me nuts. Sounds like a friggen driveshaft is about to snap :/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368611-whos-running-a-kaaz/
Share on other sites

I have a 2way in my 32, have had in there for 6yrs i love it. Was very clunky at first, first oil change used ls140 and friction modifier. Hardly clunked after that.

What oil did you use?

Did you break in the diff by doing figure of 8s?

Also when you installed the diff centre, was it a backyard job? if so the back lash might be off.

I had very similar problems with my old 180SX which I bought, it would violent clunk and shudder as you have described, turns out the back lash wasn't set properly by the old owner.

Yeah I did figure 8s...that got rid of the clunking when turning under deceleration. Didn't do much for acceleration though. Had it installed by professionals...backlash seems to be okay, but will get it checked by them. Should the backlash affect it much when it's turning under load though? I would have thought throttle on/off would produce a backlash clunk, but not while turning with throttle constantly on?

personally what you describe sounds perfectly normal to me. I've owned probably close to 10 cars with various jap LSDs in them and most are like that. clunk so bad you think the arse will fall out of it one day. that's why they are supposedly for competition use. they are fairly savage in a road car.

Birds, its fairly normal for it too clunk that harsh at first. It might take a little while longer for it to calm down, seeing as it is a new diff. If the backlash was wrong the unit wouldn't last that long. You didn't use 80/90 when you changed the oil did you?

I changed it for LS90 (monograde) and used about 100ml of Dana friction modifier...drive home tonight wasn't as bad, seems to take a bit more steering angle to start the clunking. I've done about 300km since installing...maybe I need to be more patient with it. Really wish I could just take someone with KAAZ experience for a drive and have them say "that's totally normal, you won't snap a drive shaft" lol. Need that reassurance cause the whole reason I upgraded my diff was to get rid of ye olde clunking standard diff haha...exchanged one problem for another! Don't wanna put too much friction modifier in as it supposedly wears out the clutch plates faster and reduces the effectiveness of the lock.

KAAZ do say their product is only designed for race use so I guess that's the warning everyone should heed,but doesn't. Will have to hit up some events to make it worthwhile putting up with it in a road car!

KAAZ was cheaper. I originally wanted a Nismo but $1600+ fk that. Heard good things about the KAAZ and it's serviceable worldwide,including Australia, so rebuilding is easy.

Nismo was $1600+? :O

Did you know Link have specials on ATM as they are getting rid of all their Nismo stock?

I got a Nismo front diff for my GTR for the same price it was delivered ex-japan :)

It shouldn't be "too" clunky though. Perhaps a minor adjustment to the backlash now it's got a few KM's on it. Few people have had that issue in the past.

I'm talking Pro TT in a 1.5 configuration (2 way I've found to be cheaper across brands)...I did see them for $1300 on eBay at one point (talking 12-18 months ago), but by the time I got around to actually wanting one, the seller had no stock left. Now the eBay price is $1600+ last I checked. Biggest appeal for the Nismo was the half shafts that came with it...that and everyone raves about them. Had no idea about Link...however, I did buy this KAAZ about 6 months ago, only just got round to installing.

I got the KAAZ for $1150 delivered to my door IIRC. Couldn't pass that up for a 1.5 way that everyone raves about as much as the Nismo. Driving again in the wet tonight, I can see why. You can hear your wheels spinning, yet you continue to pick up speed. Now if I can just get it to drop most of the clunking, it'll be the perfect diff...

Might have to look closer at the backlash then. There was only a little play when I had it up on a hoist today...only a few degrees of tail shaft revolution...hardly enough to cause anything serious I would think.

No idea where my crown and pinion is from lol, I stole it from another R200 with ABS. 4.08 ratio :/

KAAZ was cheaper. I originally wanted a Nismo but $1600+ fk that. Heard good things about the KAAZ and it's serviceable worldwide,including Australia, so rebuilding is easy.

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/gt-lsd-tt-pro

$1383 delivered. I wonder how these would go with noise etc vs the KAAZ.

Will be watching this thread with interest

Nismo was $1600+? :O

Did you know Link have specials on ATM as they are getting rid of all their Nismo stock?

I got a Nismo front diff for my GTR for the same price it was delivered ex-japan :)

It shouldn't be "too" clunky though. Perhaps a minor adjustment to the backlash now it's got a few KM's on it. Few people have had that issue in the past.

Don't you have to be a trade member to get stuff off them Ash?

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/gt-lsd-tt-pro

$1383 delivered. I wonder how these would go with noise etc vs the KAAZ.

Will be watching this thread with interest

Where'd you get that price from? I logged in and it quoted me about $300 worth of shipping...

Total AU $1,558.22

Are Nismos not just rebranded US lsds including Kaaz?

Use Motul 75W 140 special diff oil for lsd(which I believe is the same as sold by Nismo).

So I've heard...thanks for the recommendation, might try it next oil change if things haven't quietened down by then.

$1500+ once you get stung with tax :thumbsup:

As above, and yeah, good point on the tax.

I will keep this thread updated with my progress. After Googling the issue, seems it's a very common thing to have, so I'd say what I'm experiencing is, as Beer Baron said, quite normal for a brand new Jap diff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...