Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, so there is no classics for sale section that i can find, and i thought seeing as though this place has some of the most hardcore DR30 nuts in Aus i'd offer the stuff up for you guys!

I have a built FJ20 with rods, forgies, ported head. Brand new fibreglass DR30 bonnet. DR30 oil cooler kit with remote mount filter and full braided lines. Doors, door windows, dash, R30 cluster, boot lid, R30 head lights amd tail lights and heaps of other random bits. So if your looking for something, hit me up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368653-dr30-stuff/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi

I am interested in body parts around the firewall. Could you let me know where you are and if that area of the car is available or do you want to sell the whole shell? What condition is it in?

Regards

John

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368653-dr30-stuff/#findComment-6249225
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
    • I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
×
×
  • Create New...