Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You will get slightly more lag. I went from a Hybrid RS Spec cooler which was 600 x 300 x 96 (or something) with 3" piping to a Blitz CS 622 x 265 x 80 and 2.5" piping. In terms of RPM and hitting fool boost, not much, maybe only 100 RPM.

However, on / off throttle response is amazing and noticably improved compared with the Hybrid. Haven't tried it in the summer yet though.

If it's for the the spirited street / odd track day then don't go anymore than 90 for sure, even 80 would be fine if it's an efficient cooler like ARC, Blitz or the Jap likes.

More information would be nice such as your intended use and budget.

Do you drive the race car around town? :)

A larger core will increase lag. Wether it's noticeable or not, depends.

If the VLt is auto/stall then it wouldn't be as much of a problem either.

Either way you won't lose HP.

His question was if its too big. No, its not too big. Simple answer. No there isnt any horsepower loss and lag difference is not even noticeable. We went from a 600x300x75mm pwr gtr cooler to an A.R.E 600x300x115mm gtr cooler and there is no difference on the dyno and no difference on the track. However, on the street its a slightly different matter, but my guess is it wouldnt even be noticeable there either.

No the race car isnt driven around town.

cheers for the responses guys.

Cooler is a 600x305x115 and I already purchased it.. was a bit of an impulse buy but oh well... my old 75mm thick, 2 and a half inlet/outlet ARE cooler was starting to reach it's limits at around 23-24 pound - im guessing due to the inlet/outlet size and but mostly due to a quite a few crushed fins from retarded tow truck drivers over the years. As long as the difference in lag is minimal and I can run more boost I will be happy. I will eventually upgrade to a 42r anyway which will probably be more suited to the cooler.

In reference to R31Nismoid's comment, the car currently has a 2speed glide behind it.

I guess all I can do is see when fullboost is with my current cooler and then see what the difference is with the new one and keep you guys posted!

His question was if its too big. No, its not too big. Simple answer. No there isnt any horsepower loss and lag difference is not even noticeable. We went from a 600x300x75mm pwr gtr cooler to an A.R.E 600x300x115mm gtr cooler and there is no difference on the dyno and no difference on the track. However, on the street its a slightly different matter, but my guess is it wouldnt even be noticeable there either.

No the race car isnt driven around town.

On my SR20 I noticed a difference when going off / on the throttle but not much if any in terms of lag and hitting full boost.

It's important to consider the application for that reason above IMO, but it's not really problem if the core is larger. A larger one will tolerate more PSI anyway so long as the piping diameter matches up efficiently to the core so you're not running 2.5" piping on a 600 x 300 x 150 core when it requires a 3" pipe setup.

Core size and piping diameter I think has to match how much pressure your running that's what's affecting response. The larger core and piping will mean a slower velocity getting to the intake manifold and smaller core an piping will mean a faster velocity however, too small will affect power output as it may become a restriction.

Read somewhere that the inlet/outlet size of the turbo should be the base size you should start with determining the piping and intercooler core size for optimal

Don't ask me where I read that as I really don't remember, I read alot.

Corky Bell's book explains how to work out what size piping and intercooler to use for what horsepower you want to achieve. I remember it saying you need about 1.5 times the airflow to achieve your desired bhp. So 1000bhp would require about 1500cfm of flow. Also there was something about working out piping size based on keeping air velocity inside the tube under 450ft/sec otherwise drag and friction become too much of a problem past that point. It was something like airflow in cfm/ the internal area of the piping and then convert it to ft per sec.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...