Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the title states I cracked a ring land on #5 and scratched the bore. I have heard people say that you can just go over it with emery cloth and call it good. I know this will work in some cases, but I also know it has its limits. I dont really have any way of measuring the depth of the scratches but mostly it is just very light and I cant even feel it. There are 2 spots that I can feel although they are also very light just barely enough to feel, probably only .003" deep and about the same width at the worst part.

I know for a high hp engine any scratch at all is probably a no-go but my plan is just build it back to stock engine specs and stock boost for now. will a new piston and rings and a bit of emery cloth do the trick or do I need machine work. I know it is probably impossible to tell for sure without being here and seeing it first hand but if you have any expierence with this, please let me know what worked for you. cheers

If you are deadset on fixing it yourself, Atleast get yourself a flex hone and clean the bore up with that rather then emery cloth. It will atleast keep the bore closer to round then leaving a flat spot where you would go over the scratches with emery cloth. While you are at it, do all the bores with that and chuck new rings in. If the scratches dont go after a hone, then it needs to be bored oversize.

Get a hone done and see how it looks, don't take to it with sandpaper, if the marks still there after a hone you can go with a bore and and lager pistons.

Just called my personal mechanic back in the states (aka My father) and he gave me the same advice. So it sounds like a hone is what I'm doing! Thanks for the advice and the second opinion.

Dude, I'd get a Hone, acid dip, and deck done.

Would cost you around $250.

It really is worth the trouble and expense, as you won't have any issues then.

Set of standard rings would be about $100, and change the bearings while you are at it. Thats another $100.

You'll need a new head gasket - $about $50 if you find the right place.

Totalling around $500

If you skimp for a lousy $100, here and there, you'll be pulling the engine out and down again, wasting days of time, extra head gaskets, seals etc. Trust me, been there done that. Just do it the right way first up, because saving $100 isn't worth the hassle of pulling the motor out again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
    • It's all the sound deadening, and extra shit piled into them, plus all the extra (even though it's thinner) material for crumple zones. I can't fathom in modern cars why they need canbus to the headlights, and why the headlights must be vin coded on some cars to the ECU, BCM, and security module! Especially when they claim it's for security, yet, the canbus at the headlights let's thieves steal the car in minutes, so even more cars are being stolen! The Mercedes Sprinter 907 vans. They're a huge van, but a "basic" van. Yet they have that many canbus networks, plus two Lin networks, AND an Ethernet network. Logging a single network alone of 8 byte data frames, and they will generate a 20mb log file in 5 minutes. That's one network, and I can't remember the exact amount, but there's over 10 full CAN2.0B networks in them. I'm not a fan of modern cars, oddly, more and more I hate DBW, and all the bullshittery the cars try and interfere with. But all that bullshittery adds weight, plus crazy regulations on crumple zones, plus, ever picked a modern seat up, half of them have like 4 electric motors in them and will weigh 30+kg each. Then all the motors for things like adjustable steering columns blah blah blah. And did I mention the sound deadening so you can even hear an ambulance right behind you even if you 7.2surround sound is off?
    • Ah ok, yeah it should be flat, I believe the r34 battery tray has these 3 bumps in them they makes it line up and everything is flat, don't see how it would tilt if everything is secured.
×
×
  • Create New...