Gtx3071 Install

[scotty nm35]

I used to run the Emanage Ultimate, with the Greddy map sensor. I still had to keep the AFM in place as the auto needs to see that voltage for the line pressure adjustment. Clamping the voltage too early may have been the reason for my initial gearbox meltdown on the dyno.

Since changing to the Fcon we have been able to ramp in a lot more timing, as it is a standalone system. (The timing is set, not wandering like with the EMU setup over the stock ecu.) Also there is adjustment for line pressure in the fcon, plus it doesn't back the throttle off during gear changes. Much better power to the ground, but you may need to build the auto to take that sort of abuse for long.

I make my own cooling mod, quite a few of the Australian guys have installed it with great success. It is very similar to the pathfinder mod, without the stupid twin thermostat arrangement. (there is no need for more than one thermostat in the system, and it just creates another place for air to be trapped.) Here is the link to a few threads on it. I replaced the crappy plastic bleed assembly and used the heater line for coolant return, to assist in moving more coolant around the system. You may have noticed the M35 has a habit of overheating with around 1 cup of coolant missing, this kit allows the flow to continue even after losing a litre. (I know from experience) I have done plenty of track work and can attest to it working better than I ever expected, all air or steam is allowed to flow through to the radiator and out the overflow instead of getting trapped in the block/head.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/413471-m35-coolant-bypass-mod-install/?hl=+m35%20+coolant%20+mod

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/410876-m35-coolant-bypass-kit/?hl=+m35%20+coolant%20+mod

[Erop]

thank you for the reply! few days ago i've seen nice shot- in the place of bleeding valve the breather tank is installed!

with the cooling mod this should be very effective, won't it?

on the cooling mod - the overheated water moves to cabin heater, is it? may be it would be effective to make Y-connection (water feed and block out on top, heater input in bottom), not T-one, like now, how do you think? i know, it's hard to place in engine room, do we need in it?

this one is has VQ35DET, take a look at a whole car, it seems interesting to me http://injapan.ru/auction/e142404508.html#lot_images

[scotty nm35]

It seems to work very well, so I am hesitant to change it too much, but you could run it however you liked. On my setup the heater runs through horizontal as stock, the block fitting in the bottom, and the ball valve out the top. ( I noticed the pics weren't showing on the old thread)

The expansion tank is a great addition but it needs to be mounted higher than the bleed point and radiator overflow, which makes it very hard in our cars, there just isn't much room for it. (I have one here I wanted to fit but couldn't find a suitable place)

If you were planning to track the Stagea, especially at twice the stock power you would be mad not to do this mod, the alloy block and head design transfers too much heat out of the combustion chamber causing flash boiling so you would need to either run the expansion tank to self bleed the steam, or run waterless coolant like I have decided to fill with. (I bought Evans waterless coolant, 200c boiling point.)

[WAGON_BOY]

I was only getting water temps of about 115max on the track...... what temp does water and coolant go to ???

[Daleo]

thank you for the reply! few days ago i've seen nice shot- in the place of bleeding valve the breather tank is installed!

with the cooling mod this should be very effective, won't it?

on the cooling mod - the overheated water moves to cabin heater, is it? may be it would be effective to make Y-connection (water feed and block out on top, heater input in bottom), not T-one, like now, how do you think? i know, it's hard to place in engine room, do we need in it?

this one is has VQ35DET, take a look at a whole car, it seems interesting to me http://injapan.ru/auction/e142404508.html#lot_images

A swirl pot won't fit in that location on a VQ25det, as that is where the intake runs.

It will (just) fit on the inside of the area where the Master cylinder/booster sits; but you'd need to drill 3 holes (2 up high, and one down low) so that you can get a line in from the bleed point, and one from the radiator neck.

Using a blank cap on the rad that only closes the top face, and allowing any air bubbles out through recovery port; you then run a hose from this to the swirl pot.

The cap on the swirl pot will sit at least 1" above the rear bleed point, and several inches above the rad cap.

The bottom of the swirl pot then runs to the bottom radiator hose (colder water) and convection provides constant flow through the hoses from bleed point and radiator neck.

A recovery cap is used on the swirl pot, and the recovery line leads away from the swirl pot, back to the overflow reservoir.

Another alternative position which will also work; on the front timing cover. This vastly simplifies the hose lengths, but to get the required head height; positions the filler neck of the swirl pot millimetres away from the bonnet lining.

A bit like this:

It's almost like they finally admitted there was a design flaw in the routing!

[scotty nm35]

I was only getting water temps of about 115max on the track...... what temp does water and coolant go to ???

About 140 degrees is enough to spew coolant out the overflow reservoir as I found out. Not much you can do to raise the boiling temp over that while using water in the system. I would assume the coolant is flash boiling around the bore at much lower temp than that...

[iamhe77]

Cooling mod is much more effective than the swirl pot.

I have run both, swirl pot was mounted on the front of the engine (amazing how high it can sit without fouling on the bonnet) and currently have the cooling mod.

[Erop]

so the best way is to combine cooling mod and swirl tank)

i told to my mechanic, he told we will weld custom tank before the summer, to put it conviniently and high in room.

now it's time for winter racing with no chance of overheating (-25 outdoors), engine is warmed with coat on top and carton around the interlooler (air goes only through it)

Edited January 19, 2014 by Erop

[M35woah]

thank you for the reply! few days ago i've seen nice shot- in the place of bleeding valve the breather tank is installed!

with the cooling mod this should be very effective, won't it?

on the cooling mod - the overheated water moves to cabin heater, is it? may be it would be effective to make Y-connection (water feed and block out on top, heater input in bottom), not T-one, like now, how do you think? i know, it's hard to place in engine room, do we need in it?

this one is has VQ35DET, take a look at a whole car, it seems interesting to me http://injapan.ru/auction/e142404508.html#lot_images

This car was tuned by Phoenix Garage in Japan... I was trying to get more information out of them but they just said that it was all custom work and very little information was recorded.

http://www.phoenixs.co.jp/bigsite/sute-jia/wgnc34.htm

It's the third one up from the bottom of the page.

[iamhe77]

so the best way is to combine cooling mod and swirl tank)

No need for a swirl tank if you have the cooling mod.

It really is a DIY mod, just takes a little time

[Erop]

Scott, how do you run your F-con, what options do you mean useful?

do you have separate EGT and UEGO systems, or HKS ones, wired to F-con? i have camp2 installed already, so i don't want to have any gauge on panel, but want to run safely)

[scotty nm35]

I run the Greddy infometer touch, it displays all ecu parameters as well as oil pressure, oil temp and boost. I also use the analogue input for the innovate wideband. The only other gauge I have is the exhaust temp, mounted just before the turbo in the manifold.

None of it goes through the fcon, as the wiring for that is complex enough. I don't even have the narrowband sensor plumbed into the exhaust, so my economy hasn't been the best.

I do have the HKS pressure and intake air temp sensors plumbed in, so I can use MAP sensor tuning, but the AFM has to stay in place anyway for the auto.