Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtx3071 Install


Recommended Posts

Who knows mate, I wasn't at much more power than that myself remember. If you notice any loss of water or overfull overflow bottle it will have lifted... Mine has been doing it for ages it just failed completely the other day on the dyno.

The stock head studs are crap, designed to be the weak link so as not to damage the bottom end. If you are worried, get a set of ARP studs fitted, or VQ37 bolts are pretty good apparently. The heads shouldn't even have to come off...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Who knows mate, I wasn't at much more power than that myself remember. If you notice any loss of water or overfull overflow bottle it will have lifted... Mine has been doing it for ages it just failed completely the other day on the dyno.

The stock head studs are crap, designed to be the weak link so as not to damage the bottom end. If you are worried, get a set of ARP studs fitted, or VQ37 bolts are pretty good apparently. The heads shouldn't even have to come off...

Hmm ok that's kinda worrying...remember 6 months ago when I came over and you fixed the dodgy ECU connector and my overflow bottle was almost empty???

Edited by ironpaw
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are the head gaskets for the VQ35 the same as those for the VQ25? I see Nismo do VQ35 gaskets...

Nope, its a larger bore on the VQ35de and the water jackets don't line up either. Other than that the blocks seem to be identical.

Apparently the head gasket is the same for any VQ25 so there may be some aftermarket options in the US but I couldn't find anything in Japan when I searched. Unfortunately they wont be performance gaskets.

Either we leave these engines near stock or pay big bucks for custom parts, at least the 3.5de L19 studs fitted fine, perhaps with the main bolts replaced also we can push for much more? My pistons showed no signs of damage...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally got the engine back together, I also designed the block coolant mod today. It was too close to the rear coolant pipe to connect it there so I fed it up to the rear bleed point, all uphill so the air has a chance to make its way up quickly. It just needs a ball valve on top for bleeding and to fit the last 90 degree -10 fitting. I should have the car back on the road by next weekend. :cheers:

post-63525-0-34058600-1339173123_thumb.jpg

post-63525-0-09895000-1339173142_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Well, few problems today.

It ran up fine, he did a fair bit of low end tuning first with no issue. Water level didn't drop, temps were under control and dropped back as soon as he backed off. All looked sweet until this weird missfire developed. Lucky there was a donor VQ25dd at the shop, I swapped some coilpacks around and found it wouldn't fix the issue so next I checked and gapped the new plugs. Again no issue with them. We decided to check the fuel side and found one of my Walbro's wasn't pumping properly causing it and after topping up the tank all was fixed. Looks like I am upgrading the pumps again...

The tuning continued, we decided on a safe 26psi tune which in AWD and with extra correction produced 310kw. I may drop the shaft and push for a good number some time later, once I am sure the engine is fine, but for now the car feels very strong and great to drive on the road. Definitely faster than before.

I have ordered a new set of 4000 DBA disks with A1RM pads for the Brembo's, that should sort out the brakes, then its ready for Phillip Island when I can get there. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good to hear your hard work with gaskets & studs has paid off; I'm assuming you had an opportunity to fit the shorter geared front diff at the same time. :thumbsup:

310kw's at all 4 is a great result; you must be stoked!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am, but its a shame the figure didn't show what it feels like to drive. I never wanted to go backward. lol.

That's what the track is for...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am, but its a shame the figure didn't show what it feels like to drive. I never wanted to go backward. lol.

faster is not backwards...unless you select R for race....:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The larger blades on the 76mm comp should help a lot compared to the smaller 71mm particularly midrange.

A little too much midrange, its making some funny surge noises at small throttle openings while coming on to boost. Glad its got the surge slots.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I still have my old GT3040 and it has a non-port shrouded comp cover. It didn't surge but it can depend on tuning if they are close to the edge. The compressor flow of a GTX 76mm comp is pretty similar on paper.

I wish you could back to back test this GT3040 against the GTX3076 I would love to see if there have been any real world gains with a billet wheel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, yeah, nah. Speakers have a nominal impedance of 8 ohm that looks more like 6.4 ohm when measured. The receiver's amplifiers (all channels) are all rated to 6 ohm (I think, it's been a long time since I cared). The real problem is that many modern class D amps have aggressive protection circuitry that cuts off the fun if they think too much current is being drawn. And with my speakers having series crossovers, as opposed to more typical parallel crossovers, and big TL enclosures, they can certainly dip down to lower impedances at some frequencies and that easily triggers the protection. Pioneer receivers are somewhat famous for it, but even Denon, Onkyo, et al, all have many complaints against them across various models. It only does it when listening to music at high levels. You have to be putting your ears at risk to do it. But sometimes I want to do that. If I was serious about using it as a listening room I'd simply upgrade the amp for the front pair to a nice Rotel or something, and just use the receiver for signal handling and processing - although that would be a bit of a pain in the arse too. Have to switch on more shit, pre-amp volume vs main amp volume, etc etc.
    • yeah pretty much, stopped playing after lightfall, couldnt be bothered with the final shape...  ran that game into the ground for years... bit of a shame.. the  story was awesome. was playing a lot of trials but the hackers became tooo much, ruined the game.  
    • This is why you don't get invited to press events.         Kodi
    • For example, you’ll need this approval if: you’re a car enthusiast looking to import a specialist vehicle or an older car you want to bring your vehicle with you when you move to Australia you manufacture or import special purpose vehicles or a small number of trailers each year.       Tutuapp 9Apps
    • I reckon you are 100% right on the money. The only reason I bought Red Sport instead of the base VR30 is that I am investigating racing it in Production Cars, and they require you to run a (mostly) standard car....therefore knowing exactly what was in the RS spec was important to me and I paid the extra. Other than that, for sure I would have pocketed the $10k and spent them on mods instead. Plus the non-RS models are more likely to have had a nicer life prior. Just a warning though, mods always cost twice as much as they look like they will on paper BTW you should also consider the 400R imports, they are about the same price as a local RS but 5+ years newer. Of course that comes with the usual warnings about finding parts, unhelpful nissan dealers and finding insurance
×
×
  • Create New...