Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK ok..so I know this has been covered a few times before.....BUT.....things change, people / situations change, businesses change over a short time..

So please allow me to start a CURRENT thread on whose got the cheapest / type of insurance cover and CTP (Compulsory Third Party - is this for Sydney only?) how much for, from where and driver detail

Let me begin:

Insurance - Third Party Fire & Theft - Just Car Insurance - $499 / year (covers damage to other persons car and $10,000 to me in event of fire and theft)

CTP - QBE - $516 / year

Driver - Male 33yo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/368928-cheapest-insurance-and-ctp/
Share on other sites

If you get a quote from Shannons for Fire/3rd Party Property/Theft & then Shannons CTP (through loyalty), the CTP may be cheaper; in which case add the two together and see if it is less than the $1015 combined quote you've got already.

Keep in mind that Suncorp/Metway & Shannons & AAMI & Just Car & API are all in cahoots with one another now.

True, a lot of these companies are owned by one corporation or something, I read that somewhere - Shannons dont do third party fire and theft and theres only 7 companies who do CTP.. Whicehever ways, Australians are ripped off big time by big businesses..

Suncorp owns Shannons.and Just car and AAMI.

You won't get a.CTP discount but you can push a personal insurance discount if you have 3 products with them.

I'm doing NRMA CTP and Suncorp Insurance.

Rego and CTP was 380 in Qld and Insurance was $41 a month full comp.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nissan needs to forget about building SUVs in every size possible and bring back the damn Silvia/200sx duo to compete with the 86/brz. Maybe with the Honda type r motor pointing the right way
    • Good to see you followed your heart, got your dream car and have it pretty well sorted out now. I think anyone can get caught out with a seller not being 100% honest about a cars problems. Can relate to all the electrical issues, had similar issues with my first car (mk2 escort) ages ago
    • I just bought the Nexus S3 for my gtt, haven’t installed it yet as I’m collecting parts to do everything at once…so far spent $14,000 The Nexus is nearly future proof
    • Honda's hybrid system can be easily scaled up to PHEVs. Series hybrid at low speeds, at higher speeds the engine directly drives the wheels but there can still be some power bled off to charge the battery + the electric motor can still provide parallel assistance too. It's really only a question of will at that point. Toyota's PHEVs are selling incredibly well at the moment because of the flexibility. You can run on EV mode when it makes sense, but if you're planning on doing a long highway drive you can still fire up the gas engine and not have to worry about dealing with the rather miserable state of public charging infrastructure.
    • Only reason to keep a MAF on your RB25 is to be able to easily calculate true VE if you know what the factory voltage curve represents in grams per second of flow. Also allows you to do things like pull the original OEM ignition + AFR target tables and use those as a starting point for your base map. Once you're well and truly done tuning though there's no need to retain the MAF.
×
×
  • Create New...