Rb25Det Turbo Sucking And Blowing At The Exhaust

[Rolls]

normally i wouldn't say R&R at 10psi, but since it is running a r34 turbo then i'd say that it is most likely a contributing factor. it is probably on the limit, but on the colder days lately that is probably putting it over the edge.

if winding down the boost by a little bit (best to do it in small increments rather than just dropping it back to stock boost, or drop it back to stock boost and then slowly start increasing the boost to see at what point the problem occurs) doesn't fix it, then i'd start looking at spark plugs and the ignitor module.

PSI has nothing to do with it and air flow has everything to do with it, greater PSI = more airflow with everything else the same, but as soon as you change things it isn't comparable.

A larger turbo = less restriction, bigger exhaust = less restriction, so does different intercooler etc.

R&R isn't a function or line, it is just a slow progression of the map, if you look at the stock fuel map it is just the higher load/air flow parts of the map, it slowly gets richer and more retarded, it isn't like the knock map where it is either active or it isn't.

it is entirely possible at 10psi with r34 turbo, that would be more than double the airflow of the stock turbo at 7psi hence they make 180-190kw instead of 120kw.

Edited June 26, 2011 by Rolls

[chris pohlman]

i have a r32 actuator and its set at 10psi. Thanks for the comments, means heaps to me, i am still learning and reading information does help. I will get a chance tomorrow and check the spark plugs and the splitfire coil packs. See if theres any cracks etc etc.

I do believe it hasnt had a tune, so ill save and get one done. Will try and lower the boost down see if that heaps me in any way. Thanks heaps guys. ATM i dont have a boost controller, the car just came as is with the r34 turbo bolted on.

also i am running a walbro GSS 342 fuel pump.

Edited June 26, 2011 by chris pohlman

[Rolls]

Get new plugs (0.8mm gap!) as that is something you should do for a service anyway. Whilst you are doing this check all the coil packs for signs of arcing via scald marks, there is a few guides on here for taping and glueing them up, look at the 'misfire at 4500-5500 rpm' thread, your question has been asked thousands of times there.

These are cheap and easy things to do, once you have cash get a nistune and get the car properly tuned, will set you back about $500 and will make a BIG difference, highly recommended.

All things you will need to do if you want to mod the car further in the future. New fuel pump like you mentioned it already has is a great mod as well, good to see you are learning, best way is to do lots of searching on here, then if still in doubt ask away!

[chris pohlman]

Get new plugs (0.8mm gap!) as that is something you should do for a service anyway. Whilst you are doing this check all the coil packs for signs of arcing via scald marks, there is a few guides on here for taping and glueing them up, look at the 'misfire at 4500-5500 rpm' thread, your question has been asked thousands of times there.

These are cheap and easy things to do, once you have cash get a nistune and get the car properly tuned, will set you back about $500 and will make a BIG difference, highly recommended.

All things you will need to do if you want to mod the car further in the future. New fuel pump like you mentioned it already has is a great mod as well, good to see you are learning, best way is to do lots of searching on here, then if still in doubt ask away!

yeah ill have a good look in the morning for signs of cracking and damage. I did get a chance to look at the misfire thread, has good information and i will find out more when i check out the car properly. Yeah learning heaps atm due to this thread and others. Thanks heaps again. I will post more info when i find out more

[89CAL]

I hit R&R real bad with stock turbo at 10psi. Some R33 stock ECU's just can't handle it......