Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi!

I have having lot of problems a couple of years now that my HC values are WAY too high on idle, but higher rpm everything is fine..

Have tried to check everything i can, nothing found.. Tried changing back to original dumpwalves but no difference..

Had it to nissan and checked with nissan consult, no problem there.. every sensor worked as it should and well everything was ok...

But it's going to rich i know because of alot of black spots on the rear and love to eat fuel...

I have a 3" exhaust system all the way and new 200cell cat and apexi airfilterkit and boost o 0,9bar.

But was the same before with everything original.. and the turbos and engine is in good shape..

No one has found out what it can be wrong yet with this rb26... im getting tired of this shit.... :(

Edited by Mathias1986
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369002-autech-hc-values-too-high-on-idle/
Share on other sites

most likely a combination of a few things.

3" exhaust with a very free flowing cat converter (don't even think 200 cell is legal here in australia) - means the exhaust gasses are speeding out at a high rate, and not slowing enough for the C02 to burn off as they would in the stock system.

do you have anything higher than stock boost? as soon as the factory computer senses you're over stock boost, it retards the timing and richens the mixture significantly. if you are running with higher boost, next time you floor it, watch out the rear window - you will see the unburnt fuel just pouring out the back.

the wagon design, with the very upright rear tailgate creates a significant low pressure area behind the car. it basically sucks everything that passes over the car and under the car up onto the rear tail gate. it's why whenever you drive a stagea in the rain, within a minute the rear window is filthy. same goes for dust, road grime, and exhaust fumes!

Well i have tought about getting a Nistune for it so i have the ECU part fixed when the time comes for more power..

The boost may be a little over stock because of the highflow system on it.. but the HC values was the same with the stock exhaust system and cat too.. so don't really think it's that one.. and when the values are fine on higher rpm, only idle it's really bad..

What are you using to measure HC?

The stock ecu will run pig rich with higher boost/more airflow. Sure in closed loop it will trim when cruising but there is no doubt that aftermarket engine management wakes these cars up and improves fuel economy compared to the factory ecu once you start modifying them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes...but look at the numbers. There is a tiny tiny fraction of the number of Joules available, compared to what is used/needed. Just because things are "possible" doesn't make them meaningful.
    • Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
×
×
  • Create New...