Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, i currently own a r32 gts, i get of my ps in 6months time and am trying to decide on wether i should sell my car and buy a gtst or just put a rb20det or rb25det, i cant find any info on differances on a gts and a gtst, my car has a gtst diff and brakes so all i need to do is drop in a motor, iv seen many rb20 vs rb25 threads but just wondering is the rb25 worth the extra money

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369073-r32-gts-differances/
Share on other sites

rb25 is worth the money 1 million %. a rb20 with a mildly upgraded turbo and ecu will put out the same sort of power you can get from a stock rb25, but unlike the rb25, won't be able to make full boost at about 2500rpm. it will be closer to 4000rpm, by which time someone with a rb25 will be a pair of tail lights off in the distance.

my advice though, sell the natro and buy a turbo one. there are a few reasons for this, and price is one of them. another is to save you a heap of dicking around. a 3rd is because you can drive it before buying it to make sure the engine is decent.

i should mention that i'm not a huge fan of the r32. don't like it's looks, and certainly don't like the rb20, so personally i'd sell it and buy a 33, but that's just me.

rb25 is worth the money 1 million %. a rb20 with a mildly upgraded turbo and ecu will put out the same sort of power you can get from a stock rb25, but unlike the rb25, won't be able to make full boost at about 2500rpm. it will be closer to 4000rpm, by which time someone with a rb25 will be a pair of tail lights off in the distance.

my advice though, sell the natro and buy a turbo one. there are a few reasons for this, and price is one of them. another is to save you a heap of dicking around. a 3rd is because you can drive it before buying it to make sure the engine is decent.

i should mention that i'm not a huge fan of the r32. don't like it's looks, and certainly don't like the rb20, so personally i'd sell it and buy a 33, but that's just me.

thans the info on the engines mate much appreciated, i love the look of the r32 the r33 is to round and wide for me, i can do all the work myself but ofcorse with and engine swap theres always headaces wich is wat was pushing me to buying a gtst but my car is verry clean no rust and good paint and theres not many clean gtst around wich is wats making me stick to wat i have, are there any differances from the gts and gtst or just engine box diff brakes?

no they are pretty much all the major differences. does yours have 4 or 5 stud wheels?

as for the engine conversion, putting a rb20 in would be easier than a 25, but the 25 is a better option. it has a stonger gearbox as well as much more low end torque. but it means some wiring changes (for example you have to dick around with the speedo sender as it uses an electronic one and the r32 uses a mechanical one, but there is a fair bit of info around on how to get around this).

I have know a few people who quite easily blew their rb20 box on a 25 if your gonna convert it do it right the first time

I'm with you I love the look of r32's I've owned 2 and have had 1 r33 the torque low down on an rb25 is so much better the rb20 is a slug by comparison if I were you I'd sell the r32 na and buy a good condition sorted r32 gtst shell minus the gear box and engine and get the r33 engine and gearbox cause you gonna get shit all trying to sell and rb20 once you take it out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How much have you lowered?  I had 350Z springs in the rear and was able to pull the camber into factory spec with the factory arms on the rear, obviously the front ran negative camber as it isn't adjustable, but rotating the wheels regularly evened out the wear.
    • Either the installer needs to come back, you need an auto electrician, or you need to learn automotive electricals yourself.   First step Id look at is where that big thing came out of, is there still things unplugged at that location? Maybe they just forgot to put a relay in or something?
    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
×
×
  • Create New...