Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All four bolts were over torqued, and there isnt enough room to get a ring spanner or socket on either side. I've managed to get three of the four out with open enders (all are mangled and will need replacing) but the last one got too rounded. Since there's fark all room, i'm not sure how to tackle it. Maybe buy a dremel and try to cut the head off? or file two sides down until I can get an 11mm open ended on?

Suggestions?

ouch. can you get a chisel onto the nut to turn it? remember to lock up the other side of the bolt when you do.

dremel can always cut the bolt if needed.

I've found those bolts to be a problem before too...they often come pre-fcuked from earlier owners.

ouch. can you get a chisel onto the nut to turn it? remember to lock up the other side of the bolt when you do.

dremel can always cut the bolt if needed.

I've found those bolts to be a problem before too...they often come pre-fcuked from earlier owners.

Re: chisel - is the idea to get the chisel tip to grip on the side of the bolt head even tho its on an angle? I guess you need to chisel straight down first to make a gouge for the tip to sit in to give it something to grip with?

Yeah pre-fcuked - if there was a washer under to bolt head, I would have probably been able to get a ring spanner on that side. Do you know if there's supposed to be a washer there? or if it matters? I'll probably try putting one in to see if it gives enough room.

yeah either find or make a lip to bash on. shouldn't need too much force it's a little bolt.

There is no washer under the bolt head, actually I think they designed it to be captive but it isn't quite held. the bolt head side on the driveshaft is pretty tight on the head.

All four bolts were over torqued, and there isnt enough room to get a ring spanner or socket on either side. I've managed to get three of the four out with open enders (all are mangled and will need replacing) but the last one got too rounded. Since there's fark all room, i'm not sure how to tackle it. Maybe buy a dremel and try to cut the head off? or file two sides down until I can get an 11mm open ended on?

Suggestions?

Mine were all totally stuffed and seized on. I used a cold chisel to undo the nuts for the front ones and had to cut the rear tail shaft nuts (back of transfer case) with a grinder. Tried using a chisel but they wouldn't budge. There isn't enough room to get a nut splitter on them either.

putting my 2c in .....

Idea #1 - Using oxy heat said bolt untill it just begins to glow and rapidly cool down ( repeat process 5 times then try)

idea #2 before u rounded the bolt did u try using a punch and 4pound hammer to shock the bolt before u tried to crak it, this usually works if u haven't try hitting it then put on a open ender of smaller size if its f**ked or try a pipe spanner

Idea#3 push the car off a cliff and hope the shok makes it come loose :ph34r:

Idea #1 - Using oxy heat said bolt untill it just begins to glow and rapidly cool down ( repeat process 5 times then try)

idea #2 before u rounded the bolt did u try using a punch and 4pound hammer to shock the bolt before u tried to crak it, this usually works if u haven't try hitting it then put on a open ender of smaller size if its f**ked or try a pipe spanner

Idea#3 push the car off a cliff and hope the shok makes it come loose :ph34r:

1 - I havent got any oxy or welding stuff, so this and GTRsean's ideas are plan B

2 - No I didnt, but mentioning the punch gives me the idea to try drilling it out If there's room. FWIW there's no room for a pipe spanner

3 - When i feel like doing that I pack it in the day... Don Dada's idea of snapping it with da powa has a certain charm...

tnx

You've probably sorted it by now, but as others have said;

Just grind the side out of the nut (parallel to thread); it will open up on the thread once you grind through the side. If it's pre-farked, you're going to be replacing it anyway.

When they're already damaged, I don't waste time playing nice.

Edited by Daleo

You've probably sorted it by now, but as others have said;

Just grind the side out of the nut (parallel to thread); it will open up on the thread once you grind through the side. If it's pre-farked, you're going to be replacing it anyway. .

Unfortunately i've been crook, but i couldnt keep away from the thing and tried drilling it out. The grade 9 bolts just made by bits blunt...

I have a die grinder now so if there's enough room to get it on the nut i'll do what you say - makes sense that taking out one side is all that's needed. Otherwise i'll take the rest of the bolt head off, even though that will be a lot more grinding, there will be room.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
    • yeah, there's a country that recently started importing Skylines, I blame them.
×
×
  • Create New...