Jump to content
SAU Community

Skyline R34 Remove & Replace Steering Wheel & Airbag & Resetting Airbag Alarm


Recommended Posts

I mean, I hate to be that guy (cause I'll be poking the bear of further commentary)

But you won't need additional mysterious arms for the car to not VEER left. I have stock arms. The car does not veer anywhere and toe is absolutely adjustable, as is camber (with an adjustable bush). If you have some scenario where the car is low as f*** then you may need aftermarket arms to dial camber OUT, but camber in and of itself does not make the car veer anywhere.

Toe does. And toe is adjustable from the factory.

Having 0 toe will result in the car going SLIGHTLY to the left on most roads due to the angle. It won't 'veer' and it won't make your tyres wear any faster, as they are following the curvature of the road. Dialling in alignment to counter that would be exactly as much wear as turning slightly to counter the curvature of the road because you're literally just baking that into the suspension.

(more or less, someone pls correct me).

At this point you need to post a vid, because every time you make a post Mr Silviaz, you get one step closer to explaining what is going on and 0.9 steps in another tangientally confusing area that requires much more clarification.

37 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I mean, I hate to be that guy (cause I'll be poking the bear of further commentary)

But you won't need additional mysterious arms for the car to not VEER left. I have stock arms. The car does not veer anywhere and toe is absolutely adjustable, as is camber (with an adjustable bush). If you have some scenario where the car is low as f*** then you may need aftermarket arms to dial camber OUT, but camber in and of itself does not make the car veer anywhere.

Toe does. And toe is adjustable from the factory.

Having 0 toe will result in the car going SLIGHTLY to the left on most roads due to the angle. It won't 'veer' and it won't make your tyres wear any faster, as they are following the curvature of the road. Dialling in alignment to counter that would be exactly as much wear as turning slightly to counter the curvature of the road because you're literally just baking that into the suspension.

(more or less, someone pls correct me).

At this point you need to post a vid, because every time you make a post Mr Silviaz, you get one step closer to explaining what is going on and 0.9 steps in another tangientally confusing area that requires much more clarification.

All good mate no problem at all! I get what you're saying as well. I haven't got a video on me atm, but this video right here is exactly what's happening with me at the 0:29 - 0:34 mark in the video

. Exactly as the guy is doing it, hands off the steering wheel and starts to slowly go in the other lane. Only difference is that mine is going to the left side and veers to the left lane slower than in the video. As mentioned I'll likely leave it for now. 

Apologies if I'm being a pain in the arse! I know I've been harping on about this topic for (I just realised for 2 weeks)

Edited by silviaz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you are fine with China turbos, Maxpeedingrods makes a bolt on turbo. Ive had mine for two summers now and it seems to be holding up ok. 
    • Howdy all Im in a little predicament and wondering what everyone’s thoughts are? I’ve had my long block rebuilt and am in the market for a turbo due to my old one having metal shavings from crank bearings (cause of rebuild) go throughout the turbos oil lines and there wheel has a little play. I’m not really aiming for any power, just trying to keep it as oem as possible, but I can’t find a turbo that’s built for the stock ecu or find something that would be a standard replacement. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions 
    • How's everyone going? Just a shout-out introducing myself. I'm James, I live on the north side of Brisbane. I bought an R33 that had been left to rot in someone's front yard for 14 years. Apparently, it has immobiliser/fuel issues. Long story short, it's suffering from a seized engine, plus whatever else turns up once it runs. The car is pretty good considering it sat for so long. It pretty much died after being imported. It has a bunch of Jap parts and a full Top Secret body kit. It's painted Fiat Turchese Festival, or aqua blue if you're not French. Another project to throw money at!
    • So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that white thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)
    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
×
×
  • Create New...