Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i'm in SA and if i could find a 20 for 500 bucks i'll take 6 the cheapest i've ever seen is 1100 and it didn't include turbo or the intake manifold and a few other bits

ive picked up a few 20's, the last one was complete with manifolds for $100.

edit/ im in SA also

Edited by Bl4cK32
  • Replies 209
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I get what Team USA is saying about head work, I think what is being lost in translation between convicts and pilgrims is that R31_Nismoid is sayign dont do things to mess with velocity, ie big porting or the inlet and outlet, etc etc. You are right in saying that anything you can do to lessen the resistance of air without dropping velocity is going to be a good thing. Match porting etc etc.

But the key is not just flow, flow is great, more the better, but its the velocity that gives you good culinder filling and torque/response which in a turbo car works well. Get the turbo on speed and the engien delivering torque and then jsut squeeze as much as you can in there with psi!

Ye that is what I'm saying mr Bris :)

since you guys talked me out of forging, i'm wondering bout stroking cause i have mate that's got a 25 crank and rods i can use this should stroke it to 2150cc with 20 pistons shouldn't it?? but correct me if i'm wrong cause i'm only going off what people have said and what i've looked up so not completely sure if i heard or read right but doesn't the stock pistons come up 0.4mm past the block and with 25 crank and rods it will push it to 1.4mm past but if i put a tomei or acl 1.4mm metal gasket won't this give me the right clearance with roughly same compression just with bigger cc's??

has anyone done this? is it pretty straight forward easy drop in kind of deal? do i need to modify anything? only spitballing

yeah well i was gonna pull the head off to replace the rings so i was gonna put a metal gasket on anyway so the only thing i was gonna change was put 25 crank and rods while it's apart putting all the new bearings and seals cause there available so i'm not set on wasting my money it's not gonna cost me anymore than if i wasn't...i was just wondering on how easy it is and if i need to modify anything to fit the crank and rods in

From what I have research just the rb25 crank, rods, and stock sized rb20 pistons will only net you a 2050cc engine. You have to use over sized pistons to really up the ccs. Remember the rb25 stroke is only 2mm longer then the rb20, just adding 2mm will not get you much. If your going to do it, you should just go all out and do the rb24. I have to say though, if I was in a place that had rb25 for what rb20s cost here I would have a rb25 in mine........ Good luck.

  • 2 weeks later...

yeah just for the two bobs worth no machining required for 25 crank and rods only for the 26 crank and rods...and just side point one guy is running RB24 in s15 and is making 340rwkw at 16 pound apparently it's suppose to have a crap load more torque than the RB25 don't know the details of what he's running but supposedly it's not to laggy but people who have been in it have just said it's a freak motor that just runs really well

I can't see any reason why this would be true, the stroke is still shorter surely?

i thought the rb24 has a longer stroke than 25 from what i've found and talking to people only going by what i've been told and searched so not sure how true it is may have read wrong...people just say it's a freak motor and it seems that most people say it's got more torque so who knows??? would love to take ride in one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
×
×
  • Create New...